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What glue to use during building?


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Are you talking about glue to assemble parts (for good, such as engine halves) before painting or to mock parts up or for final assembly?

I like regular styrene cement for assembling styrene to styrene parts, poster tack or white glue for mocking up and Krazy glue for most final assembly tasks that I couldn’t do before the painting was done 

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I'll list the glues I use............different ones for different things.

Liquid glue (MEK)
Two part 5 min epoxy
CA glue (Super Glue)
Semi Liquid glue such as Testors
White "Elmers" glue for things such as headlights and at times windows.
JB Weld which I need from time to time for certain projects and materials.

In this case one size does NOT fit all as you'll need different types for different situations.

Hope this helps!

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1 hour ago, CabDriver said:

Are you talking about glue to assemble parts (for good, such as engine halves) before painting or to mock parts up or for final assembly?

I like regular styrene cement for assembling styrene to styrene parts, poster tack or white glue for mocking up and Krazy glue for most final assembly tasks that I couldn’t do before the painting was done 

See above

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1 hour ago, MrObsessive said:

I'll list the glues I use............different ones for different things.

Liquid glue (MEK)
Two part 5 min epoxy
CA glue (Super Glue)
Semi Liquid glue such as Testors
White "Elmers" glue for things such as headlights and at times windows.
JB Weld which I need from time to time for certain projects and materials.

In this case one size does NOT fit all as you'll need different types for different situations.

Hope this helps!

Pretty much my glue toolbox too, except I never use "tube glue" (such as Testors) and I prefer the slower setting epoxies to the 5-minute stuff, which cures rubbery and won't sand. 

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Snake, Testors makes a 'semi' liquid glue which is just a tad thicker than the watery MEK glue. I can't think of the name of it right now as I don't have it on the work table at the moment, but it does come in handy for certain times where you don't want the runniness of the regular liquid glue, but it's not that harsh tube stuff they (I guess) still make. Haven't used that stuff in many a year!

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OK.................took a quick look in my model paint box and I found the Testors glue. They call it simply "Liquid Glue" but it's definitely thicker than say Ambroid or Tenax for instance.

The tube glues I don't like for one reason.........they never stop eating through the plastic even years after they're applied. This can be problematic for kits that have hinges for opening doors, and the hinge retainers glue on the inside of the fenders. You can 'bout guarantee a few years down the road you can see where the retainer was glued as it'll leave its mark.

On a side note for the OP...........another "adhesive" if you want to call it that is clear paint (acrylic). I use this for attaching PE parts such as scripts and door locks for example. Future Floor Wax can be good for this also, but watch out for the alcohol content as it can damage the surrounding paint.

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3 hours ago, ThreeThree said:

If this is already a subject I'll delete. Yes I looked. What glue/glues do you use before finale assembly? (During mock up) Elmer's is not working well for me. Does anyone use uv? 

 

Absolutely!

You will have a tough time finding a better "mock-up" glue than one of the UV setting glues like Laser Bond.

It sets instantly and is very easy to just pick off with a finger nail when disassembling.

Like anything though, all of these glues work best for bare plastic mock-ups.

The glue can take some of the paint with it when disassembling the parts.

 

 

Steve

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1 hour ago, ThreeThree said:

This is all very good info  and will be getting some of the suggestions metioned  but I'm looking for something stronger than Elmer's that is still easy clean up before paint. 

Laser Bond is your answer.

I have assembled entire engines and chassis in a matter of a few minutes with this stuff, and then broke them back down again in the same amount of time.

I have yet to hear of a better option for a mock-up glue than one of these UV setting glues!

 

The only draw back is that all of your glue needs to be applied on the outer surfaces of the parts where the UV light can reach the glue.

But then again, it's mock-up, so it matters none. ^_^

 

 

 

Steve

Edited by StevenGuthmiller
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CA glue for parts that are not chrome or painted gloss. (fogging issues) Strong bond but inflexible.

Testors red for most everything once paint has been scraped from contact points. Minor flexibilty but is best left to cure 24hrs.

Testors window maker for clear parts and for bumpers because it wicks into gaps and dries clear. Note: gravity helps with wicking.

Future/Pledge for painted, detailed foiled, decaled bodies to seal everything down. Boo boos can be redone after cleaning off with ammonia base cleaner. Can be brushed on suprisingly heavy. Any bubbles will disappear on their own. NEVER reacts with paints or decals like some clear coat aerosols.

I have Plastruct Bondene but I have never been impressed with the adhesion unless used on a large surface area.

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On 11/10/2019 at 1:34 PM, StevenGuthmiller said:

Laser Bond is your answer.

I have assembled entire engines and chassis in a matter of a few minutes with this stuff, and then broke them back down again in the same amount of time.

I have yet to hear of a better option for a mock-up glue than one of these UV setting glues!

 

The only draw back is that all of your glue needs to be applied on the outer surfaces of the parts where the UV light can reach the glue.

But then again, it's mock-up, so it matters none. ^_^

 

 

 

Steve

Thank you. I will be getting this. I will also try this tacky glue.

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