Which modeling glue to use ?

[Ctmodeler]

Hey guys

I was wondering wondering which modeling glue you all use ? I just started back building and have only used the orange tube before and I know that's not really what you should use anymore , just wanted you guys input for the best looking models possible. 

Thanks

Ken

[Fat Brian]

I use a combination of glues because each has different properties that make it better or worse for a given situation.  I use the red tube glue for basic construction, especially on unpainted plastic. I also use a plastic "welding" liquid glue applied with a paint brush for strong, quick joints on unpainted plastic. For less structural joints I use super glue, this works on unpainted and painted surfaces but can fog so be mindful of that. For clear parts I use Testors clear waterbased paint if the parts fit well enough, just brush a bit around the edge with a small brush.

[Dave Van]

On my desk???

Testors orange tube glue

Flex-i-file solvent liquid

5 minute epoxy

Elmers clear glue

Gorilla CA with blue cap  

Future floor shine (now Pledge something) good glue for clear parts

[Snake45]

Casey will be along soon to post links to three or four previous threads on this topic. 

[bluenote]

I use Tamiya exclusively for all applications.  Tamiya liquid for general gluing,  and Tamiya extra-thin for parts that are joined at a seam.   Tamiya extra thin is great for flowing into cracks and seams.

I also use Tamiya clear for windows.  And lastly, Tamiya CA (superglue, both gel and liquid) for when I really need a really strong bond.

It's amazing how clean a build you can get with Tamiya liquid and extra thin versus the old Testors tube glue.  And, the bond is really strong.  

[Brutalform]

For joining plastic tube and rod, I use Tennax, ProWeld, and PlastiStruct. 
For temporary joining parts, Elmers White. 
For general joining un painted parts, Tamiya, Extra Thin, and Tamiya regular cement. 
For super quick joining of parts, Zap CA glue, depending on the situation I’ll add some accelerator. 
And two part 5 min epoxy for painted parts that need to be positioned correctly. 
I also use Tamiya Acrylic Clear, for a lot of little odd things, like helping tiny decals to stay put, and adding PE parts. 
Also I always keep some watch crystal cement handy for windshields, rear view and side mirrors, and door handles. 

 

Edited February 13, 2020 by Brutalform

[crazyjim]

Testors orange tube, micro crystal clear, testors for glass, CA.

[NOBLNG]

2 hours ago, Brutalform said:

For joining plastic tube and rod, I use Tennax, ProWeld, and PlastiStruct. 
For temporary joining parts, Elmers White. 

 

How long does the Elmers take to dry before it can be handled? And does it have any strength, or does that have to be built into the joint design?

[Brutalform]

1 hour ago, NOBLNG said:

How long does the Elmers take to dry before it can be handled? And does it have any strength, or does that have to be built into the joint design?

I usually let it dry overnight. Handling it carefully usually doesn’t pose any problems. It does a fantastic job when you have to mock up the parts to make sure everything is going to fit correctly on final assembly. 

[slusher]

I still use Testors orange tube glue and Loctite.for hard to hold parts..

[stitchdup]

pound shop superglue for resin, humbrol poly for styrene, uv glue for glass/filling small holes and humbrol clear fix for other clear parts. I also have spray glue for adding wood decking to trailers/truck beds. For reinforcing if i've chopped or sectioned something i use acrylic nail filler which can also be used as a glue in certain situations but mostly i use it to add strength where it wont be seen