Stripping chrome off Salvinos NASCAR kit parts ?

[Goodwrench3]

Hey all:

The chrome on the Salvinos JR NASCAR kits is a different animal --   my "go to" for removing chrome Easy-Off oven cleaner doesn't look like it's up to the job for some reason like on other chrome.

Anyone have something that has worked ?

Thanks.

 

[cobraman]

I never had the yellow can Easy Off fail,,,,,, yet.

[Goodwrench3]

Yeah .. the problem is this stuff is REAL chrome.   So there is no stripping it.   Just paint it.

Just got the info from the Salvinos facebook page.

 

[Deuces ll]

Yep, real chrome and it's magnetic.....

[Goodwrench3]

So, I assume you probably don't want to try to scrape it off to glue the part.

What are you using to glue the chrome parts to plastic ?

 

[randyc]

If it's like the Trumpeter chrome, you can't "scrape" it to glue.   CA, epoxy, white glues?   You can't file it easily  for sprue attachments either.   Or maybe with a real metal file.   But it will polish like nobody's business.   

[BlackSheep214]

Try straight up bleach. I use Easy -off Oven cleaner for stripping paint. Never had luck with stripping chrome off. At least bleach will strip it off in minutes.

Edited July 28, 2020 by BlackSheep214

[peteski]

Most kit "chrome" parts are actually vacuum metalized using very thin layer of aluminum. That is easily removed using the methods mentioned earlier.

But if a thicker layer of metal is electroplated onto the plastic (yes, plastic can be electroplated, then this becomes a problem when tryign to strip it or remove some of it for beter glue bond. If it is a real chromium, it is resistant to acids or bases and will likely not get stripped by Lye (Easy-Off cleaner, "purple pond"), bleach, or other household chemicals.  As mentioned, Trumpeter  used this type of "chroming" on some of their kits, and it was impossible to strip by anything but mechanical means (scraping it off, and that was a pain too).

[randyc]

On 8/1/2020 at 9:18 PM, peteski said:

Most kit "chrome" parts are actually vacuum metalized using very thin layer of aluminum. That is easily removed using the methods mentioned earlier.

But if a thicker layer of metal is electroplated onto the plastic (yes, plastic can be electroplated, then this becomes a problem when tryign to strip it or remove some of it for beter glue bond. If it is a real chromium, it is resistant to acids or bases and will likely not get stripped by Lye (Easy-Off cleaner, "purple pond"), bleach, or other household chemicals.  As mentioned, Trumpeter  used this type of "chroming" on some of their kits, and it was impossible to strip by anything but mechanical means (scraping it off, and that was a pain too).

And when you looked closely, there is a layer of copper or brass under the chrome.   Looks absolutely great when you can get it trimmed etc correctly.  And you can shine and polish on it til the cows come home.  The 63 Nova was the one that gave me fits getting hte nubs trimmed on the interior trim I think it was.

[Mike999]

As a warning, maybe: one of the weirdest chrome hassles I had recently was with the Round 2 AMT 907/12 1/25 "TeeVee Dune Buggy." The chrome plating was thick and obscured detail, especially on the engine parts.

I did my usual de-chroming trick:  put the chrome parts in a ZipLoc bag, sprayed them with a heavy coat of Easy-Off from the yellow can, and let them sit for 24 hours.

 The next day all the chrome was gone, leaving a powdery white residue, as usual.  I scrubbed off the residue with an old toothbrush, dipped in 91% isopropyl alcohol.  The residue disappeared...

...for a couple of hours.  Then it came back.  I scrubbed with alcohol again, residue went away.  Then came back again. I finally painted over the parts, which seemed to work.  But I wonder if, after a while, the residue will "ghost" again and show up thru the paint. Some of the unused chrome parts are still showing the white residue.

This is the first time I've ever seen that happen.  The Easy-Off/alcohol procedure has always worked to get rid of the chrome and any residue.  If it happens again, maybe I'll overspray the parts with Dullcote while the residue is gone, and see if that helps.
 

[peteski]

Looks like  more companies are changing their parts metalizing process and are using electroplating, which results in a thicker layer of metal over the plastic.  That is good for the parts durability, but as mentioned, becomes a real hassle when it comes to removing the metal layer for gluing. The thicker plating can also obscure small details.

As I understand, electroplating plastic starts off with application of electrically conductive lacquer.  Then, since the parts are now electrically conductive, the rest of the process is similar to how metal parts get electroplated.  First a layer of copper is plated over the part, then the final coat of chrome, nickel, or whatever shiny silver metal is being used.  I think on 1:1 cars there is an intermediate layer of nickel applied between the copper and chromium.

I"m not sure why this change to the new plating method is occurring.

The "standard" vacuum metalizing is a fairly simple and clean process. Parts are sprayed with a clear base coat (to make them smooth and glossy), they are placed in a vacuum chamber where sliver of aluminum is vaporized (electrically). That produces the chrome-like look. That's all. Sometimes an additional clear coat is applied to protect the delicate metallic layer.

The "new" electroplating method is messier, and it involves not only more steps, but also nasty, poisonous chemicals.   Except for durability I don't see any advantages to this process. And since these are usually static models which do not get handled, durability is not really an issue.  Plus, I like the looks of the old-style plated parts.

[64Comet404]

On 7/28/2020 at 1:52 PM, BlackSheep214 said:

Try straight up bleach. I use Easy -off Oven cleaner for stripping paint. Never had luck with stripping chrome off. At least bleach will strip it off in minutes.

The bleach will work, but it takes a longer amount of time. You need to put the parts in bleach, leave until the bleach is full of black specks (usually overnight), and scrub the parts under water. Repeat the process with fresh bleach, and keep going until the part is cleaned. It took me 6 sessions with the bleach, but the chrome is off!

WARNING: Do not put a lid on the container you are using. The process does generate gases, so leave the container open, and in a well-ventilated area!

[Goodwrench3]

Thanks -- will give that a go.

 

[BlackSheep214]

Once I used bleach I had laying around in the laundry room. Didn’t do the trick until I realized it was old. So I went out and bought a new small bottle. Stripped it off in minutes, never overnight. Then I’ll will soak it in plain water overnight. I never had issues with chrome needing to sit overnight to do the job in bleach.

Now Easy Off oven cleaner, I will spray it on in a dedicated plastic tubwith cover. Let sit overnight, reapply again the next day and let sit overnight again. Rinse in water with an old toothbrush to brush off any residual paint and clean with IP alcohol or Dawn dishwashing liquid.

[Deuces ll]

Instead of going through all that, why not just paint those????.... Primer and paint!.....

[Dave Van]

Anyone have luck stripping Salvinos??  We over at Randy Ayer's NASCAR forum have yet to find a way that works......yes..it's real metal. Good news is Salvinos is offering some kits w/o the chrome....

[peteski]

I doubt it - see my earlier post in this thread.

[Goodwrench3]

6 hours ago, Dave Van said:

Anyone have luck stripping Salvinos??  We over at Randy Ayer's NASCAR forum have yet to find a way that works......yes..it's real metal. Good news is Salvinos is offering some kits w/o the chrome....

No - it cannot be stripped.

But they do take paint well !   

 

[64Comet404]

On 8/23/2020 at 6:35 PM, Goodwrench3 said:

No - it cannot be stripped.

But they do take paint well !   

 

These pictures are of a Salvino's Olds 442 rear spoiler. It once was chrome, now it is stripped. It can be done, but it takes time!

On 8/23/2020 at 12:21 PM, Dave Van said:

Anyone have luck stripping Salvinos??  We over at Randy Ayer's NASCAR forum have yet to find a way that works......yes..it's real metal. Good news is Salvinos is offering some kits w/o the chrome....

Dave, it is possible to strip the chrome. Put the parts you want stripped and cover them with bleach. It takes time for the bleach to react with the metal, but eventually you will start to see some black particulate in the bleach. Dump the bleach out, scrub the part with a toothbrush, and cover with fresh bleach. Repeat until clean. You have to leave the parts to soak for at least 12-24 hrs per session. This is a method that I learned from a builder on the Salvino's Facebook group, and it does work! Good luck with stripping the parts!

[Dave Van]

Thanks

[55fireflite]

I realize this thread is already five years old as I type this, but someone else may be like me, needing to strip the chrome in a Salvinos Jr kit, and find it in a Google search, so it was worth responding. In my case, I wanted to drill .020 holes in one of their carburetors for fuel lines. Since were dealing with actual chromium here, which is harder than iron, you might as well try using a microdrill to bore into an actual car bumper. 

Another effective method has been discovered for stripping these parts: muriatic acid. Muriatic acid is available in the paint section at your local hardware store. I paid 10 bucks for a gallon. Here's how it works.

First, BE CAREFUL, this stuff is nasty. One whiff should convince you. Wear gloves, and a chemical respirator is a good idea. (I only needed about 2/10 of an ounce in medicine cup for my carb, so I just kept my face well clear or it.) Place your part in a plastic container and add just enough muriatic acid to barely cover the part. Come back 24 hours later, and the acid will have turned green. Drain off the acid and replace it with fresh acid. Repeat for 7 to 10 days. If you are doing this in the evening, it might help to gently swish the parts around in the morning, a little oxygen may help the process along. No scrubbing of the part is necessary. Rinse with water when chrome is gone and you're good to go. 

[Bainford]

11 hours ago, 55fireflite said:

 

Another effective method has been discovered for stripping these parts: muriatic acid.

First, BE CAREFUL, this stuff is nasty.

This cannot be overstated! This stuff is nasty x 10. DO NOT use it indoors. ALWAYS wear chemical resistant gloves, a proper respirator, and safety glasses. DO NOT allow it to come in to contact with skin or clothes. DO NOT inhale the fumes.

Seriously, when handling muriatic acid, regard all recommended cautions. It may be best to dilute it 50/50 with water, but NEVER add water to acid, ALWAYS add acid to water. Otherwise a violent chemical reaction can occur causing the acid to froth up and boil over.

Years ago I had heard that this stuff is great for removing rust from steel car parts, so I gave it a try. I put some in a plastic container, full strength, and set a very rusty crusty brake shoe into it as a test piece. Bubbling began almost immediately, and in five minutes it was boiling. After 10 minutes I pulled the brake shoe out and it was perfectly free of any rust, and the bare metal was already being eaten by the acid. I'd guess in about an hour there would have been very little left of my brake shoe. The off-gassing was indescribably nasty. DO NOT allow yourself to inhale the fumes, as it will combine with the moisture in your throat and lungs and reconstitute as acid, causing very serious chemical burns.

I'm not trying to be the model building nanny here, just letting those without experience handling strong acids know that this stuff is no joke. 

[Mark]

"The bigger the skull and crossbones on the container, the better it works!"