Vintage Top Fuel FEDs, 1:16 brass chassis

[Mike Williams]

New year, so I thought a couple from the bench might be interesting to view.  A 175" version of a restored SPE chassis from 1966 along with a Woody Gilmore 150" from 1965.  The longer car has a 426 motor and the 150 car has a 392, both modified.  The cars are a correct 1:16 scale.

Front ends are done, only a few levers for the cockpits, chute release and such, then paint.  The plan is for the longer car to be without a body,  but with all the trimmings for a FED.  The shorter car will have a brass body with a simple linear paint job.  But what good are plans later on?  Who knows....

More later on...

Mike..

 

[Claude Thibodeau]

Hi Mike!

Ah, the eternal grace and beauty of FED. Keep welding!

CT

[Rocking Rodney Rat]

Looking good, I can see the potential of brass, I haven't seriously tried it, but would be an interesting medium to work with. -RRR

[alan barton]

That goes for me too!  I built two chassis for a Niekamp roadster and at that basic level it was fun but when I see the work that Mike is doing here, WOW!  

You have a lot of talent Mike, and I too love FEDs so will look forward to following this one.

Cheers

Alan

[89AKurt]

Amazing workmanship.  I'd like to see the jigs for holding all that together.  Funny, I just fabricated a very simple and not a replica, roof rack.  I think making a jig would be half the time in construction.  Is a mini torch used?  Thanks for sharing.

[Mike Williams]

@CT, yes I agree.  Simplicity of design.  Form and function.  These are fun to build.

@RRR, indeed, brass building is interesting and also very satisfying, a real hands on treat to build these.

@alan barton, thank you, great to read that you've started with brass.  Rail chassis building is not difficult, especially since you've gathered experience.  Finding a decent blueprint is half the battle, then you're on your way.

@89AKurt, the rack looks perfectly square, you did it.  I'd suggest a steel plate about the size of printer paper and an array of small magnets to hold things in place.  Also, I print out a simple Excel sheet grid to allow for straight lines and right angles,  very simple way to go forward.  I don't use any special jig.  Modeling clay comes in handy too.

Basic setup, steel plate, paper taped on and small magnets....

Thanks for looking guys, Mike..

[gasser59]

10 hours ago, 89AKurt said:

Amazing workmanship.  I'd like to see the jigs for holding all that together.  Funny, I just fabricated a very simple and not a replica, roof rack.  I think making a jig would be half the time in construction.  Is a mini torch used?  Thanks for sharing.

MicroMark and others offer a non-flammable piece of material similar to a ceiling tile (but smaller of course) for soldering on. You can use straight pins to hold your brass material in place. Its an easy to use system that takes very little time to set up. I purchased some 'T' handle straight pin for this as they as thicker and easier to hold.

[gasser59]

Top notch work there Mike. Always love seeing brass FED chassis made and yours are right up there with the best.

[89AKurt]

7 hours ago, Mike Williams said:

[...]

@89AKurt, the rack looks perfectly square, you did it.  I'd suggest a steel plate about the size of printer paper and an array of small magnets to hold things in place.  Also, I print out a simple Excel sheet grid to allow for straight lines and right angles,  very simple way to go forward.  I don't use any special jig.  Modeling clay comes in handy too.

[...] Thanks for looking guys, Mike..

Thank you for this basic information, very helpful.   I do almost everything by eye, at least my good eye.

2 hours ago, gasser59 said:

MicroMark and others offer a non-flammable piece of material similar to a ceiling tile (but smaller of course) for soldering on. You can use straight pins to hold your brass material in place. Its an easy to use system that takes very little time to set up. I purchased some 'T' handle straight pin for this as they as thicker and easier to hold.

I get their catalogs, so will take a look.  Thank you.

[AmericanMuscleFan]

Hey Mike!  I am so happy to see you back on the forum with another of your great projects!  These FED are so cool and I see that you still have the magic touch with brass!  I will surely watch your welding work, I was strongly encouraged by one of our mutual friends to use brass most often possible and I think he is right!  I already learned something because your thing with magnets to hold the parts to be welded in place is very simple and smart.  You make me smile too my friend and it's so important lately... ?

[foghorn62]

6 hours ago, AmericanMuscleFan said:

 I already learned something because your thing with magnets to hold the parts to be welded in place is very simple and smart.  You make me smile too my friend and it's so important lately... ?

Mike, every time I look at your work I learn something new.  I’m with Francis.  A steel plate covered with graph paper, or a printed plan, and magnets to hold pieces in place sounds like a brilliant idea!  I’m still using a good flat piece of plywood, with my plans on top, and heavy pins, finish nails, or masking tape to hold the parts.  Your way sounds much better.  I don’t remember who it was in one of the earlier comments, but he asked if you use a torch.  I’m not sure if you answered his question, but I’ll jump in and say that a torch is way overkill for this type of work.  A cheap soldering iron is all that is necessary, or for a few more bucks, a variable temp unit is helpful.  Of course, one could spend more and get a resistance unit like Francis.  I’m still trying to decide they are of major benefit.

TS

[Mike Williams]

@Brad, great to see you here again and thanks for your support.  I'm nuts too about simple race cars, FEDS and Altereds forever!

@Kurt, I'm happy you took notice as lots of times simplicity is a great move forward.

@Francis, hello, great to see you've noticed these cars.  I'd started the longer car but got bogged down with small details that took forever to get right along with the fact the real owner was changing his thoughts around so often I got tired of the nonsense.  The shorter car is no particular car just the design is original blueprints, it's all there. My friend Tim Slesak posted his wonderful creations so this reminded me i could offer something new to the forum.  Both cars will be built further.

@Tim, great to see you here as well.  Your cars are always a pleasure to view.  The magnets on a steel plate are great.  I'll add a few photos of a car completed last year.  Using small rectangular rare earth magnets (very strong, they will not move easily) I was able to make each side identical, as the rods and tubes just fell into the same position after they were cut to proper length.  As you've done with a current project, the original blueprints were just scaled to size using the usual printer software..a breeze. 

I agree, a torch is not worth the effort, low fusing solder is used so a cheapo electric iron will do just fine.  I considered years ago going the resistance soldering method but thought the high cost was not worth the investment.  An analog soldering station with a very flexible cord is all I use, cost me maybe $60, low medium and high temp settings with changeable tips.  Here showing the magnets holding the brass profiles, same for both sides...

Soldering station, the green box front right is the micro motor handpiece.

 

More later on, Mike..

 

Edited January 10, 2021 by Mike Williams

[Deuces ll]

??

[AmericanMuscleFan]

9 hours ago, Mike Williams said:

I agree, a torch is not worth the effort, low fusing solder is used so a cheapo electric iron will do just fine.  I considered years ago going the resistance soldering method but thought the high cost was not worth the investment.  An analog soldering station with a very flexible cord is all I use, cost me maybe $60, low medium and high temp settings with changeable tips.  Here showing the magnets holding the brass profiles, same for both sides...

I really love your welding technique Mike, simple and clever... the proof is in the pudding as they say!  As for the resistance welding unit, I can't contradict you, they are very very expensive but I was lucky enough to win an online auction with all accessories included for a fraction of the retail price.  I think I was patient and at the right place at the right time, patience is an essential virtue anyway with this hobby... what do you think?   Everything arrives at the point who knows how to wait as the expression says and I think that this quality inhabits you my friend!

Exquisite as you say so well!!! ?

[Mike Williams]

@Dueces II, great to see you here as well!  Thanks for the approval.

@Francis, an auction won for such a soldering piece!  You did well.  I do believe the difference being the resistance soldering unit allows for a more precise solder flow, so the joints don't get too cluttered.  A fine luxury.  I'll have to write, since retirement, I have 100s of carbide burs and diamond points in all imaginable sizes, from super micro (0.3mm) to 4mm for rough cutting and reduction, so reducing the solder joint is not a problem.  Actually throughout the entire build and just before painting, I'm still hacking away at the solder joints and smoothing them out.  The units in Europe are well over $500 meantime....but an auction at a fraction of the price?  YES, I would JUMP at the chance.

Mike..

[Mike Williams]

Meantime, the shorter car has a clutch and go-pedal, a wheelie wheel out back and the bottom seat part and brace.  Also a couple of small chassis mistakes corrected.  Also, an aluminum support at the axle housing for the steering rod. Radius rods and front axle are finished.  A chute release lever and a brake cylinder with pull handle.....then the chassis gets paint.

Here a few details with the long car.  This time I liked the idea of a brass clutch can in an anodized look, I kind of like it.  A few motor details worked out, this 426 Revell FC motor will have a different front cover and idler pulley setup, the kit has a single part for all of this.  A change might work out....

Perhaps interesting here...the silver chassis rod.  I needed 2.25mm for correct scale. Just so happens a coat hanger works, solders up nicely to brass also!

More later, Mike..

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Dragline]

Outstanding! I'm taking notes as this is a place I plan on going sooner than later.

[AmericanMuscleFan]

WOW!   Great things are happening here Mike!  The use of a coat hanger to make the frame parts at the exact scale is clever!  Thanks for sharing, I can take no limit of this kind of trick and moreover, it's free... that's all the real deal!   Exquisite!!! ?

[Claude Thibodeau]

Hi Mike!

Wow, the soldering and finishing of the batwing brackets on the front axle are world class. Bravo!

CT

[Magic Photos]

Looks great. Can I ask where you got your blueprints, would love to get a set.

[Mike Williams]

Francis, I was thrilled finding that coat hanger wire was not only the perfect scale for 1:16, but also soldered nicely.  Fun indeed.

CT, thank you.  Luckily a fellow sent me a blueprint with proper measurements, shown here is perfect scale with the highly polished brass, yet unpainted.  The axle itself is polished steel coil wire, aka "piano wire".

 

Magic Photos, the plans are out there, at least partially.  You could also ask on a particular FB group for these, someone might offer insight.  You could use a readily available sketch of a Woody Gilmore chassis available online, and useful were photos of one or more of his original chassis being sold.  The correct tube sizes for 1:16 I could offer you on this thread if interested.  I've seen your name on specific FB groups, hence the mention above.  Also, I have the real plans from a restored dragster expert, but I'm keeping these to myself as promised to him.  This goes for both cars shown here.

Mike..

Edited January 14, 2021 by Mike Williams

[Mike Williams]

Moving along now, the 150" chassis is finished.  At this time I'm unaware of anything that needs soldering, so it's time to finally clean up a joint here and there and start sanding some areas and adding paint filler.  The longer car is also finished, last thing to both was adding a chute release lever, done.

Closeup interior, all pedals and brake pull handle are in. The brake lever slides back and forth with a rod to the brake cylinder,  the lever has to move or else the rear axle won't slide in later on.

Here a scale 150" chassis;

So, some touch ups with the metal on the chassis....then I'll tackle the front rims.  Wire laced, 40 spoke wheels.  Oh yeah!

Mike..

 

[gasser59]

Mike - this is looking so mean already. I truly admire you guys who do all of this brass work and make it look easy. I know its not. I've done a few things in soldered brass so know what's involved.  Kudos.

[AmericanMuscleFan]

23 hours ago, Mike Williams said:

 

So, some touch ups with the metal on the chassis....then I'll tackle the front rims.  Wire laced, 40 spoke wheels.  Oh yeah!

Mike..

I usually try not to add a photo already present with my comments but I can't help myself, it's just too beautiful!

Look at the shape of this machine!  Probably the coolest dragster design that ever existed!  It's pretty impressive what you can do with brass when you have talent...

Having seen one of your threads about wire laced wheels, I can only expect to be impressed... once again!

I love that!

[Tortuga Kustomz]

that thing is crazy cool, awesome work n that chassis bro