*1950 3100 Chevy Pickup*

[Zippi]

I haven't built a model kit in 50+ years. Since I own a 1949 Chevy 5 window Restomod pickup I thought it would be fun to build a kit to look like what I drive.  Did some poking around on the net and looks like the AMT kit was built a lot so I went on the hunt.  The price range was anywhere from $19 - $40 dollars so I decided to check my local hobby shop.  I've been flying RC planes for over 40+ years and always went to my local hobby shop for supplies.  I knew if Scott didn't have it he could get it in a couple days.  Just got back from the hobby shop and he had one on the shelf for $18.95.  Picked that up plus some Tamiya cenment.   Now the fun begins.   

[espo]

This is a nice kit. You should enjoy this build. 

[Steve H]

Hi Bob, this looks like it will be a great project. I assume the photo of the red truck in your avatar  is yours. Pegasus might be a good source for wheels and tires, but I’m sure others here will have some good advice too.  I noticed on another thread you were looking for a BBC, the engine that Roger (Plowboy) suggested would be a good choice in my opinion. Welcome back to the hobby! Have fun !

Cheers, Steve

[Zippi]

The local hobby shop wanted $4.09 a bottle for Tester paint so I found it at Hobby Lobby for $1.99 at bottle.  I also found some Rust-Oleum Red Apple paint that looks pretty close to my full size 1949 Chevy pickup.  

Update: Just found these wheels online that are what I'm running on my 1949 pickup.  

 

 

 

 

Edited February 28, 2021 by Zippi

[bisc63]

Will be following along...

[Zippi]

I have a question.  I'm headed out this morning to pick up some Testors paint to get started on my 50 pickup.  Do I leave the frame attached to the tree and paint it then touch up after I cut it from the tree or, cut it from the tree first then paint it?  What do you guys do?  

[Tom Geiger]

5 minutes ago, Zippi said:

Do I leave the frame attached to the tree and paint it then touch up after I cut it from the tree or, cut it from the tree first then paint it?  What do you guys do?  

I take all the parts off the sprues and clean them up prior to paint. You will notice mold seams, ejector pin marks (circles- either innies or outies), and other imperfections to sand out or putty.

I spray everything, mounting parts on toothpicks and sticking them into styrofoam bases or small bathroom cups. I even tape parts down to paint.

 

Test that Rustoleam paint on something that doesn’t matter before committing it to your project. Guys have had issues, and long drying times.

[Zippi]

Thanks for the info.  

[Zippi]

While I was at Hobby Lobby getting my Testors paint this morning I looked at the Testors small cans of spray paint and it is all Rust-Oleum  I had some at the house so I tryed it and it's fine on the plastic.  I painted the frame a flat black primer.  I bought some flat steel Testors paint for the leaf spring and it looks ok.  I may paint the rebound clips another color so it's not all one color.  I did clean up the hood and body and got the hood fitting pretty good.  I also ordered my 18" Torque Thrust wheels from Model Roundup.  These wheels match what is on my full size 1949 Chevy pickup.  This is all starting to bring back memories of when I was a kid.    

Edited March 1, 2021 by Zippi

[Zippi]

I saw this 50 pickup online and really like how it looks around the door gaps and around the vents.  I'd like to do the same to mine.  How were those dark area's created?  

[Kit Karson]

3 hours ago, Zippi said:

I saw this 50 pickup online and really like how it looks around the door gaps and around the vents.  I'd like to do the same to mine.  How were those dark area's created?  

Fine Art Pen

You can also float a flat black solution into each recess... -KK

[Zippi]

Thanks for the floating black solution.  Not sure what the process is but guess I can goggle it.  

[Zippi]

I got the bed put together this morning and I'm starting to see some mistakes I made.  I now see a couple small low spots in some of the platic that I should have filled prior to glueing together.  What are you guys using to fill low spots with?  I also want to color the rear fender bolts inside the bed like on my full size 49.  I guess a silver Sharpe would work for this?  

[Kit Karson]

Mix a little Flat Black & Thinner... just a drop of each.  This is a wash that you lay in with a very fine paint brush.  Over run can be wiped away with a soft cotton cloth.  Let the thinned down flat black bottle paint flow through the door channel... vent reveal and clean off any overflow. -KK

[Tom Geiger]

14 minutes ago, Kit Karson said:

Mix a little Flat Black & Thinner... just a drop of each.  This is a wash that you lay in with a very fine paint brush.  Over run can be wiped away with a soft cotton cloth.  Let the thinned down flat black bottle paint flow through the door channel... vent reveal and clean off any overflow. -KK

I prefer using a flat black acrylic... thinned with water.  You can lay it into the cracks with a tooth pick, let it set a little bit, then wipe off the excess with water either on a cloth, paper towel or Q-Tip.  I prefer this because I don't want to run the risk of the thinner affecting my color coat of paint.  

Also, prior to painting your body, you may want to better define and deepen the panel lines.  You can use the back edge of a new number 11 exacto blade.  Just deepen it enough to hold the paint, you don't want to go all the way through!

My 1950 Chevys!  

Edited March 2, 2021 by Tom Geiger

[Zippi]

Thanks for the idea's on the dark gaps guys.  

[Steve H]

For the Chrome in the bed, either Bare Metal Foil, or Molotow chrome pen. BMF would produce a better result in my opinion, but there can be a bit of a learning curve applying it. There are tutorials on this site, sorry I’m not a wizard at sending links, won’t be hard to find though. I prefer Tamiya filler, but everyone has a favourite. I suspect Jack will be selling you more than just wheels.... Fun hey? Not sure if that kit came with wood grain decals, but if not, you can buy those too!!

Cheers, Steve

 

[Zippi]

Thanks Steve.  I did see the Molotow pens at Hobby Lobby.  I got the box put together and primed.  Still needs a little cleaning up but I'm satisfied.  

[Zippi]

Ok....need help from the pro's.  I primed the box and cab yesterday and this morning I sprayed the red.  YIKES....what happened???  Before I prayed the red I wiped the box down with denatured alcohol.  I did a test piece and I noticed the paint came out fast and thick.  I kept the part as far away as I could while holding the part with my left hand on a wire and spraying with my right hand.  I now remember when I was a kid, painting was my nemesis.  Not only that, the Testors orange paint did not want to cover the engine no matter how much I stired it.  Man.....I have now lost enterst in this project.        

[Kromolly]

What are you spraying with?  The Testors orange looks thin.  When I'm airbrushing Testors I'll do multiple very light mist coats and let it flash in between, then when the coverage is looking even and thorough I'll do a final heavier finish coat.

[Zippi]

It's Testors from the small bottle brushed on the block.  Maybe a second coat will look better but I'm thinking there is something wrong with the paint since it was hard to get mixed up.  I'm more worried about the red paint on the box.  It was Testors spray enamel in a rattle can.   

[Kromolly]

Testors enamel?  Yes, it can be really hard to mix.  The solids will settle to the bottom and clump up.  I use pieces of sprue as a stir stick and thoroughly stir the solids.  I have a bunch of 25 year old Testors Model Master paint that I've been able to resurrect by stirring and adding a little thinner.

It's hard to see in the pictures of the bed what the problem is.  Orange peel?  It's hard for me to control paint from a rattle can onto such a small surface with compound curves, angles and depth.  I find that there is too much paint coming out.  You may be able to wet sand and polish, or color sand and clear coat it.  I've used polishing cloth up to 12,000 grit to polish and then rub with a liquid automotive wax.  "Cleaner wax" can damage the paint, so make sure it's wax only and test it first to make sure it doesn't damage the paint.

[slusher]

I would strip the engine block and prime it with Tamiya white or grey primer. I prefer white, mix you orange with a tooth pick then put the lid on shake it up and give it another try...

[Zippi]

6 hours ago, slusher said:

I would strip the engine block and prime it with Tamiya white or grey primer. I prefer white, mix you orange with a tooth pick then put the lid on shake it up and give it another try...

Thanks for the info.  How would I go about stripping the paint off?

[Kromolly]

I used to use Mr. Muscle oven cleaner but I haven't found that recently (haven't looked hard).  After reading posts on here I tried soaking in brake fluid and it worked fine.  Some say that can make the plastic brittle.  The most popular method based on what I've read here is Super Clean (by Castrol now, I think).  If you do a search on stripping or removing paint you'll find a bunch of information.  I agree with Slusher on priming, I do when I am spraying.  But back in the day as a kid I remember being able to brush a coat of Testors over bare plastic and having it cover.  At that age the result wasn't perfect, I'm sure, but I got by.  I so regret not keeping the dezens of models I built back then... alas, another story.