Some questions from person new to airbrushing.

[Plumcrazy Preston]

I just bought a new Paasche H airbrush kit and some airbrush accessories. I also have some Testors enamels. I saw the Andy X video on YouTube about using the "modified Don Yost" methods for airbrushing car bodies. It calls for 1/1 Testors enamel and lacquer thinner. My concern is lacquer thinner might harm the plastic in some plastic model kits. 

 

I have the following plastic model kits slated for painting and building:

 

1. AMT Kenworth W-925 truck tractor (in progress) and AMT Wilson cattle trailer

2. AMT Bell 205 rescue helicopter

3. Atlantis Boeing 727 jet plane

 

I plan to give all those above models (except for the truck trailer) a custom base color using Testors GRAPE enamel. The airplane and the chopper will look like private aircraft with custom paint. 

 

1. Am I better off to just use Testors Enamel Thinner in place of the lacquer thinner for the "modified Don Yost" method?

 

2. Will Testors enamel paint thinner level the paint as well as the lacquer thinner does in the Andy X video? 

 

3. Is lacquer thinner still best to clean up the airbrush well? 

 

4. Is the airbrush mix still 1/1 with the Testors enamels and Testors thinner? 

 

(207) Passche H Airbrush - The Scale Model workhorse ! - YouTube

 

 

After the base coat has cured, I plan to apply water slide decals and seal them in by airbrushing Testors Glosscoate or Dullcote over them, starting out with a couple of mist coats to protect the lacquer-hating decals.

 

5. Should lacquer thinner or enamel thinner be used to thin Glosscote or Dullcote for the airbrush?

6. Is the mix 1/1?

7. Can I create a semi-gloss/satin top coat by mixing equal parts of Glosscote and Dullcote? I want to seal the decals on my Wilson cow trailer to give it a semi-gloss finish over an aluminum-painted body. Not too flat and not too shiny. 

 

I have already purchased the Glosscote and Dullcote in glass bottles. 

 

Is this video still a good method for top coating over decals using the Testors "Cote" products in bottles?

 

(207) (HOW TO) use 2K clear on model cars/clear over decals - YouTube

[NOBLNG]

I have little to no experience spraying enamel. My best advice would be to get a bunch of Testors enamels (any colors will do) and   experiment. Mix them up and paint some plastic cups or spoons. Once you are comfortable with the paint consistency, air pressures and get some results that YOU are satisfied with….try your purple….on a spoon, then the model. You will NOT be happy if you spray your models with your very first jar of paint!  And yes, laquer thinner will clean your airbrush.

[bobthehobbyguy]

 

The best advice is to test. You need to use some of the exact decals and test those with your final clear coat mix. 

You need to try several ratios of clear to thinner mix. You want to add enough thinner to allow the clear to flow but you want to avoid making the mix too thin. By testing you will  find what works for you.

Also test the lacquer paint mix both clear and final color on the sprue from the kit you are building to make sure you don't craze the plastic. 

Testing is the only way to know precisely if you are going to have issues. Although others may make suggestions as to say mix ratios there are too many variables that can cause disappointment. 

Test, test, test. There is no substitute for testing.  There are no short cuts if you want to accomplish good results

Edited October 7, 2021 by bobthehobbyguy

[Plumcrazy Preston]

There is a price for testing: MONEY, ENERGY AND TIME. I guess testing is still cheaper than ruining a $50+ model kit. I think for my first paint trial, I would start out with a 1/1 on the mixture, use Paasche H number 3 needle and the proper associated parts to go with it and 35 psi on my compressor. 

 

It seems like this hobby is pure trial and error.  I need to run a proving-grounds session before committing an expensive kit to the airbrush. 

Edited October 7, 2021 by Plumcrazy Preston

[4mula1fan]

You're not going to win at the NNL right out of the gate. Listen to the above advice, Grasshopper. 

[peteski]

To be blunt, every time you asked the forum for advice, after receiving it you either disagree with the advice, or ignore it.  Why do you even bother? You might as well stop asking us questions.  IT IS A HOBBY - HOBBIES COST MONEY, ENERGY AND TIME!  THAT IS TO BE EXPECTED.  Hobbies can also provide pleasure or frustration - it is up to you to figure out which.

Take another hobby, like golf for example:  the golf equipment is expensive, golf course fees are expansive, and you suck at at first. You need to spend time and money to get what is needed, listen to advice from the experts, and then spend more time and energy for lots of practice (to get good at it).  Model cars hobby is no different from golf.  Just like with golf -- there are no shortcuts or some easy way to magically become good at it.

Edited October 7, 2021 by peteski

[Ace-Garageguy]

19 minutes ago, Plumcrazy Preston said:

 I guess testing is still cheaper than ruining a $50+ model kit.

...It seems like this hobby is pure trial and error.  I need to run a proving-grounds session before committing an expensive kit to the airbrush. 

Bingo.

The only way you'll learn exactly what works for you is to do it.

You can, however, get some highly relevant experience by primering smallish soda bottles, and painting them as you intend to do a model.

When you're satisfied with the finish, paint your model exactly the same way.

Edited October 7, 2021 by Ace-Garageguy
CLARITY

[peteski]

Ace makes excellent point.

When you build a model kit as a kid, you brush painted the pieces using some Testors PLA enamel from little glass bottles, then maybe even gave the body quick spray from a can of hobby paint (both plastic compatible paints), then using Testors orange tube cement, you slapped it together.  What you had was a toy car.

If you now (as an adult) want to build a detailed miniature replica (not a mere toy), you will end up using advanced techniques which include chemicals not designed to go on plastic or which might not be compatible.  There is lots of trial and error involved to achieve the perfection.  There are no written formulas as to what is compatible with what, and even if there were, paint companies often change paint formulas, so what worked last year might not work now. You have to face the reality.  I suspect that this adult model kit building might not be a good hobby for you.

[SfanGoch]

27 minutes ago, Plumcrazy Preston said:

It seems like this hobby is pure trial and error.  I need to run a proving-grounds session before committing an expensive kit to the airbrush. 

That's about the size of it. Since you figured it out, there shouldn't be any more questions on the subject.

[NOBLNG]

39 minutes ago, Plumcrazy Preston said:

This hobby takes: MONEY, ENERGY AND TIME.

There, I fixed that for you.?

[Sandboarder]

51 minutes ago, Plumcrazy Preston said:

There is a price for testing: MONEY, ENERGY AND TIME. I guess testing is still cheaper than ruining a $50+ model kit. I think for my first paint trial, I would start out with a 1/1 on the mixture, use Paasche H number 3 needle and the proper associated parts to go with it and 35 psi on my compressor. 

 

It seems like this hobby is pure trial and error.  I need to run a proving-grounds session before committing an expensive kit to the airbrush. 

Wow! You do realise you need to practice and learn new skills before you can master them in life?

 

I 100% agree with Peteski and your attitude towards the forums advice.

 

Dont cry over a cheap $50 truck kit. Other members are spending up to $800+ dollars on airbrushes, they own 10 or more different airbrushes and a few compressors. 
 

I have a few $150-200 Miniatures to paint and a few $400 PG Gundam kits. 
 

Go and buy some spoons and practice as much as possible, try different settings, different weather conditions etc. 
 

[SfanGoch]

 

Reading this thread, this commercial comes to mind.

[StevenGuthmiller]

Why don't you ask Don Yost, or Andy X?

Apparently you are hanging your hat on what these gentlemen tell you anyway.

Where better to get advice than from the horses mouth?

 

If the video that you watched was worth it's salt, it should have addressed all of your concerns.

If not, it was hardly worth the time.....or you're not listening.

 

Seriously, I think that your spending way too much time that you should be spending in the trenches gaining personal experience, watching videos and then asking too many questions about what you were supposed to have learned by watching them.

I consider myself a pretty fair modeler.

I've watched almost zero videos in my 50 years in the hobby.

I learned by doing, which ultimately is how you're going to learn as well, no matter how many videos you watch.

 

Get into the shop and do something!

 

 

 

 

Steve

[Plumcrazy Preston]

2 hours ago, peteski said:

Ace makes excellent point.

When you build a model kit as a kid, you brush painted the pieces using some Testors PLA enamel from little glass bottles, then maybe even gave the body quick spray from a can of hobby paint (both plastic compatible paints), then using Testors orange tube cement, you slapped it together.  What you had was a toy car.

If you now (as an adult) want to build a detailed miniature replica (not a mere toy), you will end up using advanced techniques which include chemicals not designed to go on plastic or which might not be compatible.  There is lots of trial and error involved to achieve the perfection.  There are no written formulas as to what is compatible with what, and even if there were, paint companies often change paint formulas, so what worked last year might not work now*. You have to face the reality.  I suspect that this adult model kit building might not be a good hobby for you.

What I want to build is something that looks nice on my living room shelf or hanging from the ceiling in the case of model airplanes. I want it to look at least as good as some of the die-cast models I already own. Even the factory finish on some these has very slight orange peel observed up close but the cars look "factory quality"  at three feet way. 

 

In boyhood, I sucked royally at model-building for the most part. Painting large parts with a hand brush and little bottles of Testors enamels left horrible brush marks.  Some fellows told me they built sloppy model airplanes and would end up blowing them up with firecrackers on 4th of July. 

 

*What you are saying there are no standards or consistency in the hobby paint industry. I'm a man of uniformity and standards.  I was in the service. I was a fleet truck mechanic by trade and an automobile repair technician. I believed in going by the book to do the job correctly. I had pride in my workmanship. 

Edited October 7, 2021 by Plumcrazy Preston

[Sandboarder]

6 hours ago, Plumcrazy Preston said:

 *What you are saying there are no standards or consistency in the hobby paint industry. I'm a man of uniformity and standards.  I was in the service. I was a fleet truck mechanic by trade and an automobile repair technician. I believed in going by the book to do the job correctly. I had pride in my workmanship. 

It’s got nothing to do with standards. 
 

Follow that YouTube video 100% and paint some spoons. Paint on a hot day, a cold day, a humid day, in the morning and in the evening. You will get a different result every time.

 

Mix your paint 1:1 and spray your spoons from 3, 4, 5 and 6 inches away. You will get different results. You might need the paint thinner at a certain distance.

 

Set your compressor PSI and then you’ll realise if you close and too thin and to high in PSI your paint will be poor. 
 

Now change your needle size and figure out an air leak in the line/airbrush. 
 

Rub lacquer thinner on the runners/spures/tree. Even cut them up and soak them in the thinner and see if they get damaged. Again primer protects the plastic but I believe I read your not planning to use primer. 

 

There is so many variables when painting you can’t expect a post on here to give the the perfect paint job without you practicing a lot. 
 

This is an expensive hobby and seriously you haven’t scratched the surface of what people spend to enjoy their hobby. Buy some extra paint and thinner and go get practicing on some spoons, Coke bottle or what ever plastic you have. 

[NOBLNG]

7 hours ago, Plumcrazy Preston said:

“What I want to build is something that looks nice on my living room shelf or hanging from the ceiling in the case of model airplanes.”

“*What you are saying there are no standards or consistency in the hobby paint industry. I'm a man of uniformity and standards.  I was in the service. I was a fleet truck mechanic by trade and an automobile repair technician. I believed in going by the book to do the job correctly. I had pride in my workmanship.”

If you only want to do those three models and then quit….you would have been farther ahead to hire an accomplished modeller to build them for you.

Dismantling something mechanical and bolting it back together (no offence to master mechanics?) is far different than airbrushing. You can learn mechanics from a book or video, but you can’t master painting, golf or ballroom dancing from watching a video.

If you are serious about building these models yourself, you have to DO IT YOURSELF. Start spraying something…get some practical experience.

Edited October 7, 2021 by NOBLNG

[Bainford]

14 hours ago, Plumcrazy Preston said:

 

 

1. Am I better off to just use Testors Enamel Thinner in place of the lacquer thinner for the "modified Don Yost" method?

I have no idea what the Don Yost method is, let alone the modified method, but when shooting Testors enamels I always thin with cheap hardware store lacquer thinner. Keep in mind that the make-up of lacquer thinner varies considerably from maker to maker, and even from one geographic region to the next.

2. Will Testors enamel paint thinner level the paint as well as the lacquer thinner does in the Andy X video? 

Again, haven't seen the video or know of the method, but with proper technique I find the combination levels well. Establishing technique will take practice and experience. There are levelling agents that can be mixed into the paint to aid levelling. I haven't tried them myself, though I am 'levelling agent curious', and some guys swear by it.

3. Is lacquer thinner still best to clean up the airbrush well? 

Yes

4. Is the airbrush mix still 1/1 with the Testors enamels and Testors thinner? 

Mixing 1/1 is a rule of thumb for airbrushing most hobby paints. From there you can fine tune the mixture if needed. Experience will tell you if it's right. Generally speaking, you are looking for a mix consistency similar to low-fat milk. Use your stir stick to pull a little mixed paint up the clean side of the bottle, and it should run back down in a manner similar to the milk.

5. Should lacquer thinner or enamel thinner be used to thin Glosscote or Dullcote for the airbrush?

If those are your choices, I would go with lacquer thinner. Any time I've shot Testors Gloscote or Dulcote, I've thinned it with Testors Lacquer Dilutant.

6. Is the mix 1/1?

It's a good place to start, but try it out on scrap to be sure it's workable.

7. Can I create a semi-gloss/satin top coat by mixing equal parts of Glosscote and Dullcote? I want to seal the decals on my Wilson cow trailer to give it a semi-gloss finish over an aluminum-painted body. Not too flat and not too shiny. 

Yes.

I have already purchased the Glosscote and Dullcote in glass bottles. 

 

Is this video still a good method for top coating over decals using the Testors "Cote" products in bottles?

Haven't watched the video, but 2K clear is a very different animal, so some of the information offered there may not be pertinent.

(207) (HOW TO) use 2K clear on model cars/clear over decals - YouTube

Be aware that Testors enamels will take a long time to dry, likely several days, and at least a couple weeks to fully cure. Also, you mentioned you paint at 35 psi, which sounds a bit high. Some guys paint as high as 40 psi, but for the most part, a lower pressure will serve you better. Try 25 psi, then adjust up or down from there to experiment with how the paint lays down. Most of my painting is done at 18-20 psi, though sometimes I'm up to 25 psi or so, depending on how the paint is behaving.

There are many variables that affect an airbrush paint job, and it's easy to become confused and wrapped around the axle over it all. The primary variables to focus on are; thinness of paint (probably thinner than you think), air pressure (probably lower than you think), painting distance (probably closer than you think), and the speed of your sweep (probably slower then you think). Keep in mind, the thinner the paint, the lower the pressure needed, and the lower the pressure, the closer you can get and the slower you need to move the airbrush. As others have mentioned, get some plastic items such as pop bottles, primer them, and experiment. Alter the variables to see what works for you. Keeping notes on what works and what doesn't, helps. Get a half-mask respirator and filter cartridges suitable for VOCs (Volatile Organic Compounds), and get shooting paint. Lots of it. The learning curve is significant, but it's not difficult, and the only way to get on top of it is experience.

 

[Plumcrazy Preston]

Testors Lacquer Dilutant is no longer available according to my Google search. So it has to be hardware-store lacquer thinner for Testors "Cote" brand top coats. 

 

I have already had the experience to use Testors enamels applied with hand brushes and no damage to plastics whatsoever. I have also thinned them with hardware-store mineral experiences with good results hand brushing. However, I would buy the Testors enamel thinner for airbrushing though. I have also used Testors enamels in spray bombs, flat and semi-gloss, with decent results. I'm convinced TESTORS products when used as directed will in no way, shape or form harm the plastics of any model kits because that's what they were expressly purposed for by the manufacturer. I don't mind painting with Testors enamels then waiting a week of more to continue with the project. I cure the painted parts in a closed dust-free cardboard box. I have another hobby to do while enamels are curing for model kits. Trainz railroad simulator game on my PC. 

 

I want to go with what I know: Testors. 

Edited October 7, 2021 by Plumcrazy Preston

[iamsuperdan]

You seem to have a very closed mind about this whole situation.

In your other thread, you were adamant that airbrush was best and rattle cans suck. Even when presented with evidence and anecdotes and suggestionsto the contrary.

In your other thread, you were adamant that a Paasche H airbrush was the only solution for you. Despite other ideas and suggestions. 

You seem adamant that Testors paints are the only option, despite what others have suggested or shared. 

You don't seem too thrilled about putting in the time, effort, and yes...money towards practicing. Despite what literally everyone else is suggesting.

 

In fact, the only person you seem to be listening to or taking any advice from is Andy X; some YouTube guy that posted an airbrush video 9 years ago. 

I think you should ask him what he thinks. 

[Plumcrazy Preston]

I already have money now invested in Testors enamels. I have already had experience with Testors enamels. I already have money invested in a Paasche H kit. I have a few more items to get before I start my Paasche H training sessions. I will most certainly do some practice on disposable plastic items before turning that airbrush loose on my $35+ model kits. I don't have a disposable income. 

Edited October 7, 2021 by Plumcrazy Preston

[SfanGoch]

I had lox with cream cheese and a slab of red onion on an everything bagel for breakfast.

 

[NOBLNG]

43 minutes ago, Plumcrazy Preston said:

I already have money now invested in Testors enamels. I have already had experience with Testors enamels. I already have money invested in a Paasche H kit. I have a few more items to get before I start my Paasche H training sessions. I will most certainly do some practice on disposable plastic items before turning that airbrush loose on my $35+ model kits. I don't have a disposable income. 

Start a build thread when you get around to it.

[StevenGuthmiller]

1 hour ago, Plumcrazy Preston said:

I want to go with what I know: Testors. 

Then go with Testors!

 

You can spray Testors enamel thinned with enamel thinner on ANY plastic all day long!

It's never going to hurt the plastic!

 

I don't know why you keep bringing Don Yost or Andy X into the conversation if you're just going to use Testors enamel thinned with enamel thinner.

That's not a METHOD, that's just painting with enamel, the same way most of us did it when we were 12!

 

Honestly, if your whole philosophy on painting boils down to wanting to use straight Testors enamels sprayed over bare plastic, I don't know what all of the questions are about.

If that's your plan, just do it! 

 

Every person on this forum is very likely to have a different method for painting, and if you had a specific question once you were actually into the process of painting, you might get a cogent answer.

But when your question is, "how do I paint", you're going to get answers that are as vague as the question.

 

You apparently have a plan, it's time to execute it!

 

 

 

 

Steve

Edited October 7, 2021 by StevenGuthmiller

[StevenGuthmiller]

53 minutes ago, SfanGoch said:

I had lox with cream cheese and a slab of red onion on an everything bagel for breakfast.

 

Finally!

Something meaningful!!

 

 

 

 

Steve

[bobthehobbyguy]

Preston. Modeling is art. With modeling  there is no magic procedure for building the perfect model. If you draw it takes practice and effort to become proficient.  No one can learn without doing.

I and others have offered good advice from our years of experience modeling. None of which you seem to want to listen to.

Unfortunately I firmly believe you are not going to be pleased with the results you get because you are not willing to put in the effort to achieve that goal. I just don't see that it can have any other outcome.

I have tried to be supportive of you for your endeavor. I will no longer bother with giving advice to you because you are unwilling to learn from it. Good luck at your attempt to model. Show us your efforts and results.

Edited October 7, 2021 by bobthehobbyguy
Fixed spelling error