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Posted

I'll give it a try since I have a pen that has turned black from silver, Have no idea what happened. If it doesn't work you can reverse the tip in the pen.

greg

Posted (edited)

i found that if you press the tip all the way down while it is on a piece of tape or something to collect the tape, you can get ink out of the pen and use a brush. i found doing this actually gets good chrome results if let the ink in a little pool.  cleanup is just water if you get to it before it fully dries. 

i prefer to brush it on over using the pen as designed.

im not sure if it fully dries how easy it would be to clean. 

Edited by youpey
Posted (edited)

Thanks for the replies, I just found out that replacement "nibs" come in a bunch of different shapes, so I will be ordering some asst. nibs.

Thanks

Note to BMF; get it together or else you've lost a long time customer!!

Edited by Painted Black
Posted
16 hours ago, Painted Black said:

Note to BMF; get it together or else you've lost a long time customer!!

If what I read in forums on the Internet is true, the problem is out of their control (and very unlikely they can find an alternate source for the stuff they used to sell as Chrome Bare Metal Foil).  I hope I'm wrong.

Posted
6 hours ago, peteski said:

If what I read in forums on the Internet is true, the problem is out of their control (and very unlikely they can find an alternate source for the stuff they used to sell as Chrome Bare Metal Foil).  I hope I'm wrong.

I hope your wrong also!! I really liked using BMF and learning to use this pen....well...we'll see. They will have to change the wording on their package. "All the details don't show thru"  

Posted

They are okay for about a few months but after that I found the pen pretty useless. Once the tip dries out, the partys over . I ordered the refill bottle and put some in a small glass paint bottle (availible at most hobby stores). Then I use a toothpick to apply it to detail work. You can use a desposable brush depending on the size of your work.

Posted
2 minutes ago, Mike C. said:

They are okay for about a few months but after that I found the pen pretty useless. Once the tip dries out, the partys over . I ordered the refill bottle and put some in a small glass paint bottle (availible at most hobby stores). Then I use a toothpick to apply it to detail work. You can use a desposable brush depending on the size of your work.

?What Mike C said.  I have all 3 size pens and none of them do what they did for the first few months.The redil bottle works for me.

Posted

I used my pen, the 1mm pen is what I have, and to get more juice out of it I had to push it down onto the work table.  that works fine some times, while at other times a whole spill of juice comes out.  That allows me to use a brush though, which is a nice perk.  But I don't trust the pen after some usage....

Posted
18 hours ago, Mike C. said:

They are okay for about a few months but after that I found the pen pretty useless. Once the tip dries out, the partys over . I ordered the refill bottle and put some in a small glass paint bottle (availible at most hobby stores). Then I use a toothpick to apply it to detail work. You can use a desposable brush depending on the size of your work.

If the tip dries out, you could pull it out of the pen and drop it in jar of clean lacquer thinner to clean it and set it out to dry.... Then re insert it in the pen and your good to go again... I  think..?

Posted

The pens all became so troublesome that I just decided to be done with them. I'm too used to my method to go back now. I'm too used to the toothpick.

Posted

I have a 1mm and a 2mm. I would never trust them to use directly on a model. I too have had them belch a large drop of ink with no warning. Now I dab them into a bottle cap or something and use a small brush or toothpick from there.

Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Mike C. said:

The pens all became so troublesome that I just decided to be done with them. I'm too used to my method to go back now. I'm too used to the toothpick.

 

30 minutes ago, NOBLNG said:

I have a 1mm and a 2mm. I would never trust them to use directly on a model. I too have had them belch a large drop of ink with no warning. Now I dab them into a bottle cap or something and use a small brush or toothpick from there.

 

I'm finding that out.!  Tried it on a spare body, yuck!!

I can live with the tooo thick BMF in most cases, but not sticking won't get it. I was told that it was my paint, that if it sticks to bare plastic there is nothing wrong with it!! WHO BMF's bare plastic?

 

Edited by Painted Black
Posted
4 hours ago, Painted Black said:

I can live with the tooo thick BMF in most cases, but not sticking won't get it. I was told that it was my paint, that if it sticks to bare plastic there is nothing wrong with it!! WHO BMF's bare plastic?

Do you wax your model's paint before applying BMF, or are you applying it over flat finish paint?  If yes, then BMW will not stick well, but judging by what I have read about the recently manufactured BMF is that the adhesive  is sub-par.  I still have a stash of the older BMF, so what I wrote is not based on personal experience.

Posted

No wax till after the BMF, always over gloss paint. The other day I was getting ready to strip a body that I had foiled several years ago, the BMF would not come off even with masking tape burnished on to it. The stuff used to be great.

Posted

HI!

I use the refill of Molotow, shake it very well, pour 2 or 3 drops in a spoon, and apply qith a blunt fine brush. My experience is that you get best results when you really "soak" the part, just a the limit of having it to run, and most important, NEVER go back to do a second stroke on the surface you just applied the Molotow to. If you do, it creates a surface wrinkle, and the smooth even "chrome" look is marred. Let dry a full day, and THEN recoat if needed. 

The intake cross-tube in this pic is done this way. One coat only. For you to judge. 

Good luck!

CT 

DSC01049 (3).JPG

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