"Simple" Revell 30 Model A Coupe. finished 4/11/2022

[Mr. Metallic]

Simple... that's the intention. How many of us start out a project and say to ourselves "going to try to keep this simple"?

Well, that's the intent with this project. The bench time I did get last year was mostly dedicated to my series on Monogram hot rods and some restorations. I've loved those, and they've been great to get the creative juices flowing again. But that's the problem, the ever lengthening backlog of project ideas in the old (slowly failing) memory bank. The intent with this project was to get one of those long lingering ideas on the bench, and to get it executed as simply as possible.

Enter the Revell 30 A. I want to get something very close to the style and design of the car below, using minimal but purposeful kitbashing/aftermarket parts to show how to turn the new Revell 29 roadster/30 coupe kits into something a little more "traditional". I will try to emulate the project style of one of my favorite influencers of this hobby Mr. Tim Boyd in showing just a few tweaks one can make to a kit to make it something they can call their own. I'll be using the first version of the coupe with the Chevy small block, but most of the ideas and techniques I apply to this build can be used on any of the now 4 versions of this kit series to have been released over the last 6 years (after an agonizingly long break in the middle of those 6 years with no kit on the shelf).

I performed most of these modification over about 8 hours at a Build n' Bull I hosted over the weekend. I'll break the different stages of the build into multiple posts so it's a little easier to digest.

Here is the inspiration for this project. Yes, it's 32 (and it's channeled), but the stance and flavor is the inspiration here.

Edited April 11, 2022 by Mr. Metallic

[RAT-T]

PERFECT! I'LL BE WATCHING.

[Zippi]

Looks like a nice project.  I'll be watching this one.

[Mr. Metallic]

The Frame:

I have built a few of these Revell model A's already, so I knew where to start. The way the frame was engineered the crossmember, while great for positively location the floor pan (and by extension the interior/body) is also a curse because it holds all of it about 1-2 scale inches above the frame itself. I'm not using that tubular trans crossmember on my build, so that helps. The rear crossmember that accepts the shocks/springs also does the same, but that will get removed as well for this traditional styled build. But don't remove that one yet, you need it to positively locate the floor to the frame for awhile while you perform the next modification. 

Even after that rear crossmember would be removed you'd note the ribbing on the underside continues to hold the floor away from the frame. Begin by taping the floor to the frame, and marking where the ribs run under the frame (note red marks). Remove the tape and then carefully remove the ribbing that would be under the frame so the floor can sit flush on the frame.

Next is the rear crossmember. For a 40's to early 60's hot rod the kit supplied coil spring setup has got to go. You can use whatever buggy sprung style Ford rear or even a quick change rear end if that's your preference. I'll be using the stock Ford rear from a Monogram 30 Woody simply because I had one readily available, but there are lots of other choices out there and the installation process would be very similar. I removed the crossmember from the 30 woody frame with a couple quick snips and then set about to clean up the mold lines (and paint, this was rescued from a builtup) and set it aside. Now you can go ahead and remove the molded in rear spring/shock crossmember.

To determine where the new crossmember would sit on the frame you have to get the spring/axle temporarily assembled. The way this setup comes in the kit the spring sits in a notch on top of the axle. That orientation tends to leave the stance a bit high for my taste, so I relocated the spring to mount behind the axle. I use pins for a lot of my assemblies because it provides a strong mounting point and allows for repeated assembly/disassembly for mockups. So I drilled a hole on the bracket on each end of the spring and glued a pin in the hole. After the glue dries trim the pin to length. What I typically do to locate my corresponding hole on the mating part is touch the end of the pin with a marker and then press the parts together, leaving a dot of ink where the mating hole needs to be. Drill your holes in the axle and mock up your new rear end assembly.

Now you can determine where the crossmember needs to go. What's handy on this model A kit is that there is a block on the frame where the axle rests. It's up to you whether you remove this down the road in the build because in the real world it would impede the movement of the axle, but in the modeling word it provides a nice solid mounting point for the rear axle. In the meantime, use it to aid your mockup process. Set the axle into those receiver blocks. You may choose to make some notches in the frame now where the spring hits the frame. Make a mark on the frame where the spring lines up on the frame, that where the center of the crossmember needs to land in order to accept the spring.

Then flip the frame over and lay it on top of the new crossmember. Center the crossmember on the frame side to side and make marks on the new crossmember on the inside of the frame (black marks). 

In this instance you will want to "leave the line". That means remove the flange material from the crossmember to allow it to sit flush on top of the frame, but only remove the material up to the line, leaving the line you marked so you get a nice tight fit. The pic illustrates the before on the left and after on the right. 

Set the fully modified crossmember on top of the frame and do any fine tuning to get the best interface between the parts. Once you're happy, glue the new crossmember to the frame. Once the glue has dried you can trim the excess material off the ends of the crossmember and sand/file it flush with the outside edge of the frame. Note the C notch in the frame to allow clearance for the spring on the upper frame rail

[chris chabre]

Can't go wrong with Jack Carroll's 5 window as Inspiration!!! 

[TooOld]

Nice step-by-step photos Craig , looking forward to seeing your progress !

[Kit Karson]

HOTRODS R US

Pictures are worth a thousand words!!  So, here's a couple of "K"!!!!

'nough said?!. -KK

 

[Kit Karson]

ps

I really like the mix of old & new parts! -KK

[Mr. Metallic]

42 minutes ago, Kit Karson said:

ps

I really like the mix of old & new parts! -KK

Thanks for the additional photo inspiration Kit.

More coming soon. Just have to put another post together. Another way to skin the "steel wheels for 41 Lincoln tires" cat. 😉

[mrm]

2 hours ago, Kit Karson said:

HOTRODS R US

Pictures are worth a thousand words!!  So, here's a couple of "K"!!!!

'nough said?!. -KK

 

That car has been on my list of future projects from the moment I saw it in a magazine for the first time few years back. I’ve been slowly gathering all the parts I need. If someone tells me what would be the best source for the blower, I would appreciate it. 

Edited February 14, 2022 by mrm

[Dave72]

Great step by step process! This is right on par for what I’m wanting to do when I tackle trying to build this little gem. Wayne Carini’s 30 Ford. Gathering the parts as well right now. 

[Mr. Metallic]

Front suspension-

Out of the box, the Revell Model A front axle puts the stance a bit high for my taste. Even if you spend time altering the front crossmember because the spring is mounted on top of the axle it will always sit high unless you Z the front end. Even though a Z is a pretty straightforward modification, there is a much simpler fix, and this one doesn't require any kitbashing. You can use what's right in the box. I've done this mod before, so I've got the steps down pretty well I think.

Like I said in a previous post, I'm a big fan of pinning parts together, and here's another example. Take the kit axle/spring assembly and shave off the upper bolt head of the spring shackle (in the picture they would be exactly where the red marks are. Sorry I didn't get a before pic). After you shave off the bolt head take your drill and drill through the shackle, being sure to maintain the bit at a 90 degree angle to the part to ensure your hole goes straight through the back shackle. Once you have your hole, slide a pin through the hole and glue in place. The red ink makes the pin heads look huge, but they are much smaller in real life, especially when they aren't highlighted in red.

Once the glue dries you can then go ahead and sever the tiny connection point that ties the spring to the axle. If you drilled straight holes then your corresponding holes in the axle should land just inside the hole where the suspension arms will attach later. The pin holes are highlighted in red here. 

Now you are ready to mount the spring behind the axle by simply guiding your pins through the new holes in the axle. If you lined up your holes precisely everything should slide right together. If your holes are off slightly it's ok, just slightly open up the holes in the axle. The pins make  your point stronger. At this point you can glue them together, but I will wait until I make my paint decisions. Here's a before and after pic of the modifications.

Now that you've successfully lowered the front end you will have to address the shock length. While doing this you can address another issue. Revell gives you a pretty solid assembly for the shock setup in this kit, incorporating the bracket for the shock and headlight mount all in one piece. However, this leaves the mounting bracket chrome, which is not typical in 1:1, so this is an opportunity to make the part more realistic while addressing the shock length issue. The kit piece is on the right, and you can see here where I snipped off the shock. Try to make your cut as close to the bracket as possible to retain as much of the shock length as you can in case you need the length later. Now drill a hole into the bracket to later receive the shock during final assembly. The angle of the hole is not critical, and really can be more of a dimple than a hole. You should then clean up the mold seams on the bracket and remove what's left of the chrome. Then glue the bracket to the corresponding notch in the frame. 

Down the road a little bit I'll make some alterations to the suspension arms, but for now you are ready to mock up your stance if you already have your wheel/tire choice figured out. I'll show how I created my wheel/tire combo in a later installment.

This is where all your work starts to pay off.

 

Edited February 17, 2022 by Mr. Metallic

[espo]

Great detailed explanation of how to modify the suspension. 

[Johnny99]

Very helpful !!!

[Kit Karson]

23 hours ago, mrm said:

That car has been on my list of future projects from the moment I saw it in a magazine for the first time few years back. I’ve been slowly gathering all the parts I need. If someone tells me what would be the best source for the blower, I would appreciate it. 

Revell Tony Nancy 22 JR 1-25 Scale Plastic Model Kit H-1224-200

Let me know if I need to send you one, Brother... -KK

Edited February 15, 2022 by Kit Karson
Text correction...

[Mr. Metallic]

19 hours ago, Dave72 said:

Great step by step process! This is right on par for what I’m wanting to do when I tackle trying to build this little gem. Wayne Carini’s 30 Ford. Gathering the parts as well right now. 

Dave, thanks for sharing that stunner. I had seen it around the internet before, but didn't know that Wayne owned it. It begs for deeper inspection because your pic exposed me to the fact it has a truly unique front spring setup that goes OVER (😵) the frame. Did Moal have a hand in building this one like he did the gorgeous little speedster Wayne had him build (and was featured on Chasing Classic Cars)? 

[mrm]

27 minutes ago, Kit Karson said:

Revell Tony Nancy 22 JR 1-25 Scale Plastic Model Kit H-1224-200

Let me know if I need to send you one, Brother... -KK

I’m at work. I’ll PM you when I get home. 

[mrm]

26 minutes ago, Mr. Metallic said:

Dave, thanks for sharing that stunner. I had seen it around the internet before, but didn't know that Wayne owned it. It begs for deeper inspection because your pic exposed me to the fact it has a truly unique front spring setup that goes OVER (😵) the frame. Did Moal have a hand in building this one like he did the gorgeous little speedster Wayne had him build (and was featured on Chasing Classic Cars)? 

That car has been in numerous publications and finding pictures of it on the net should be really easy. For anyone interested, the unique wheels on it are available from shapeways. I ordered a set as my very first experimental order of 3d parts from them and they are absolutely outstanding. Don’t remember the designer, but he also offers the tires for them. 

[Dave72]

1 hour ago, Mr. Metallic said:

Dave, thanks for sharing that stunner. I had seen it around the internet before, but didn't know that Wayne owned it. It begs for deeper inspection because your pic exposed me to the fact it has a truly unique front spring setup that goes OVER (😵) the frame. Did Moal have a hand in building this one like he did the gorgeous little speedster Wayne had him build (and was featured on Chasing Classic Cars)? 

Yes! That spring settup has me scratching my head on how to fab that! Possibly taller spring mounts on the front axle? Have to fab it up so there is room for the frame in between the axle and spring. Taller spring with more arc? As far as the builder, the Barrett Jackson sales page says the car was purchased through eBay by Wayne and then he took it to Andy Leach of Cal Automotive Creations. That’s who turned it into what it is now. A lot of people said it was a 32 but it is a 30. Andy Leach had grafted a 32 5 window roof to the body. After a period of time, it went through Barrett Jackson at no reserve. The speedster that Moal built for him was definitely right up there in the cool factor as well! I do like this one better! 

[tim boyd]

Craig....great start on your project, and thanks for sharing it with us here.  Will be watching as this bad-boy comes together.....TIM 

PS - if anyone needs more 1/1 scale inspiration for kitbashing '30 A Five Window Coupe Traditional Hot Rods, you can see some photos here - TB

[Dave72]

31 minutes ago, tim boyd said:

PS - if anyone needs more 1/1 scale inspiration for kitbashing '30 A Five Window Coupe Traditional Hot Rods, you can see some photos here - TB

Great stuff Tim! Thanks for the link. 

[Spex84]

Well this is exciting! Awesome work so far. I can't wait to see more. I also have a pile of parts stashed away, waiting to become a Carroll-esque coupe (Ed's chopped '32 5w body, a flathead, yada yada).  My direction for the project might be swayed by this beautiful machine, Simon Gluckman's "Little Eve", which is basically the Carroll coupe with a blown OHV instead of a flattie. it might be of some interest to you too!

 

[Mr. Metallic]

5 hours ago, Spex84 said:

Well this is exciting! Awesome work so far. I can't wait to see more. I also have a pile of parts stashed away, waiting to become a Carroll-esque coupe (Ed's chopped '32 5w body, a flathead, yada yada).  My direction for the project might be swayed by this beautiful machine, Simon Gluckman's "Little Eve", which is basically the Carroll coupe with a blown OHV instead of a flattie. it might be of some interest to you too!

 

 

Chris, Little Eve is definitely of interest to me. In fact, I just saw it for the first time at the GNRS a few weeks ago. As a huge 32 fan I gave it a passing once over when I first saw it. But my wife was the one that fell in love with it and made me look at it closer. Lots of subtle but outstanding mods and touches on that car. I may even build her a replica of it one day, that's how much she loved it. 

[Mr. Metallic]

13 hours ago, Dave72 said:

Yes! That spring settup has me scratching my head on how to fab that! Possibly taller spring mounts on the front axle? Have to fab it up so there is room for the frame in between the axle and spring. Taller spring with more arc? As far as the builder, the Barrett Jackson sales page says the car was purchased through eBay by Wayne and then he took it to Andy Leach of Cal Automotive Creations. That’s who turned it into what it is now. A lot of people said it was a 32 but it is a 30. Andy Leach had grafted a 32 5 window roof to the body. After a period of time, it went through Barrett Jackson at no reserve. The speedster that Moal built for him was definitely right up there in the cool factor as well! I do like this one better! 

I definitely need to research that car more because it appears there's more going on than first meets the eye.

 

15 hours ago, mrm said:

That car has been in numerous publications and finding pictures of it on the net should be really easy. For anyone interested, the unique wheels on it are available from shapeways. I ordered a set as my very first experimental order of 3d parts from them and they are absolutely outstanding. Don’t remember the designer, but he also offers the tires for them. 

Thanks Michael for the heads up on the wheels. Those were the first thing that caught my eye when i saw that car. Any idea whose store you found them in?

[Mr. Metallic]

10 hours ago, tim boyd said:

Craig....great start on your project, and thanks for sharing it with us here.  Will be watching as this bad-boy comes together.....TIM 

PS - if anyone needs more 1/1 scale inspiration for kitbashing '30 A Five Window Coupe Traditional Hot Rods, you can see some photos here - TB

Thank you Tim. It's been a couple years since I've shared an in progress project online, and I felt what I planned to do with this project might help out some other people, especially those that haven't really built many hot rods before. With the triumphant return of the Revell Model A's I figured it was perfect timing.