1970 MG Midget

[dsummone]

4 hours ago, cobraman said:

Sorry you had the paint issue. Been there. Paint looked very pink on my laptop screen.

It darkened up nice with 5 coats of color. I won’t be using the white primer this time. I used maroon rust oleum. With rust oleum clear. 

[dsummone]

Well the body is back from the pond and I’m going to have to redo all of the filler I added… ugh. 

[cobraman]

That's a shame but that's model building is it not ?

[Oldcarfan27]

I hope you haven't given up on this project. I just found some pics that show where the midget originated.

Apparently 64Comet404 and AceGarageguy were right, it started as an Austin Healy Bugeye Sprite, became an A/H Sprite, which then became the MG Midget. So the chassis, interior and lower body panels are correct, just graft the MGB body parts to the Gunze Bugeye and you're well on your way! 

Don't get discouraged, this setback might be the opportunity to make it even better!

[dsummone]

11 hours ago, Oldcarfan27 said:

I hope you haven't given up on this project. I just found some pics that show where the midget originated.

Apparently 64Comet404 and AceGarageguy were right, it started as an Austin Healy Bugeye Sprite, became an A/H Sprite, which then became the MG Midget. So the chassis, interior and lower body panels are correct, just graft the MGB body parts to the Gunze Bugeye and you're well on your way! 

Don't get discouraged, this setback might be the opportunity to make it even better!

Thanks for the comment. I haven’t given up yet but with the paint issues I had I put the body into the purple bath and along with the paint coming off, so did all the filler I had put in. 
So I got thinking… why not make this project even harder, I’ve decided to open the hood and add an engine. I think I’m going to open the trunk as well to house a battery and run led lights, front and back. 
This is going to be my winter project and I will post progress as I go. 
Dave. 
 

[dsummone]

Woohoo… I just priced the gunze kit and it’s wayyyyy out of my price range. 
I will just continue with the current mods. 

[dsummone]

Still plodding along on this project. Got an engine built and installed. I took a v8 I had in the parts box and cut into three pieces to build the little 4 banger. 

[NOBLNG]

Ambitious project, but it sure looks like you’re up to the task. She was looking really beautiful in that first paint job!?

[RickRollerLT1]

Sucks hearing about the paint as dat Maroon looked really boss! Rustoluem is Enamel Lacquer and it looks like the clear reaction in the door creases were spots that weren't dried or cured all the way. How long did you let the paint cure before the clear coat?

I've had real bad luck with clear sprays in the past, those old Testors enamels were the absolute worst! No matter if sanding down, waiting for low humidity days, or waiting months to cure they're widely inconsistent.

Next time you clear, I'd recommend ether Pledge Future/Revive It (if you can find it now as it's OOP) or Quick Shine Multi-Surface Floor Finish (which I'm hearing works well as a replacement for that OOP Pledge product). I've had good results with Pledge Revive it and it can be brushed/dunked on or sent through an airbrush. One tip I'd strongly recommend is having the body fully cure between 7 days for lacquers/acrylics and up to 3 weeks for enamels before application, as the Pledge can react to uncured paint and cause what is called "Spider webbing".

 

[dsummone]

20 hours ago, RickRollerLT1 said:

Sucks hearing about the paint as dat Maroon looked really boss! Rustoluem is Enamel Lacquer and it looks like the clear reaction in the door creases were spots that weren't dried or cured all the way. How long did you let the paint cure before the clear coat?

I've had real bad luck with clear sprays in the past, those old Testors enamels were the absolute worst! No matter if sanding down, waiting for low humidity days, or waiting months to cure they're widely inconsistent.

Next time you clear, I'd recommend ether Pledge Future/Revive It (if you can find it now as it's OOP) or Quick Shine Multi-Surface Floor Finish (which I'm hearing works well as a replacement for that OOP Pledge product). I've had good results with Pledge Revive it and it can be brushed/dunked on or sent through an airbrush. One tip I'd strongly recommend is having the body fully cure between 7 days for lacquers/acrylics and up to 3 weeks for enamels before application, as the Pledge can react to uncured paint and cause what is called "Spider webbing".

 

Thanks, I’m going to try the pledge method once the weather warms up enough to put some paint down. 

[dsummone]

Well, it’s been a while but I finally get midge painted and rubbed out. 

[Kah puts]

Wow, excellent colour choice, the end is near ??

[beeRS]

Great to this project recovered. It’s looking great ?? 

[dsummone]

Well summer has kept me away for a while but I think the MG nightmare is over. 
Im not going to do those kind of modifications for a long long while. 
The paint didn’t turn out as good as I would have liked but overall it does resemble a midget. 
The original windscreen was too curved for a midget so I used one from a junk cobra I picked up at a yard sale. 
All of the modifications aside, the Aoshima MGB kit was really well made except for being a curbside model. 
 

Hope you like it and go easy on me

Dave. 

[Kah puts]

This is a labour of love this hobby of ours and it shows in your efforts, well done ??

[NOBLNG]

Super nice job on this one Dave.? I like it a lot!

[iBorg]

I'm very impressed. The body modifications are very well done.

 

[Bugatti Fan]

A very nice albeit very difficult conversion from MGB to Midget.

Despite the setback it just goes to show how perseverance pays off in the end and you have a nostalgic model of a car once owned.