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1/12th Scale 69 Camaro Top Sportsman Suspension and chassis jig.


Ian McLaren

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Had to work all weekend so not much time for modeling, Back to the transmission to clean up and refine. Remove the paint from the transmission shield for a little bling, added the fittings for the cooler lines and modified the rear engine plate to allow the lines to be supported on  the way forward to the cooler.the chassis is getting close to getting a coat of paint.  The dash will now fit with the front upper door side bars in but needs to be refinished after the surgery. The electronics tray in the passanger foor area has also be started awaiting final fitting.

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Starting to fit and properly align the four link. Judging from the pinion angle and how far out the slider on the wishbone is presently, all of the bars need to be shortened initially to establish the wheelbase, and the lower bars a bit more to dial in the pinion angle. That will also set the initial wheelie bar height at what would be a good starting point for a new car. All of the steel rods are parallel which also tells me the chassis brackets are alligned so there should be no suprises once the final bars are installed (these are scratch built from plasitc and 1/16th brass tubing). The final bars are stainless tube and RB Motion rod ends.835272058_IMG_00511.JPG.0841afee2b48abb7cd616f62337f1c18.JPG

Edited by Ian McLaren
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I had a couple of questions asked about what went into this panel, so to answer the questions here are the materials and the process   Main body .200 x .300 Evergreen retangular tube (this is for 1/12th scale)grind off one of the narrow sides to give you a U channel, sand to required depth to fit chassis tube.  Panel ends .125 square evergreen rod glue a short section at each end to cloes the ends of the panel. The switches are .030  for the handles ( a little over scale but look OK) and .080 dia x .040 hole photo etch washers. I used a brass L channel as a guide to drill the switch holes in a straight line, then paint the panel the color you want it, I chose Tamiya semi gloss black. Cut short but over length sections of the .030 rod and glue them in the holes don't worry how long they are as long as the shortest one is longer than you want the handles to be.  Slide the washers over the handles ( I chose to do it before I installed the handle and used a drop of CA to secure both).  At this point you can cut all of the handles to the desired lenght and carefully paint them with your favorite silver/chrome paint. The pilot lights are up to you, mine are from one of my wifes Diamond painting kits, but gems like these are available in most craft stores of model raillroad shop. Some are flat mount like these but most will require a mounting hole being drilled (very shallow)  The yellow and red  stripes are from a left over 1/72 scale aircraft weapons set. and the harness is just a piece of black wire that looked like the correct size.

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5 hours ago, John B. said:

If I didn't know it was a scale model, I would've thought I was looking at Tim McAmis' website! Nice work!

WOW John I'll take a complement  like that any day, thank you so much, there is a lot of time and effort in this one, I just hope the balance of the build goes well.

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1/12 scale LHP1320 BBC long block and 1050 Dominator carbs. Wilson style intake manifold with 2 added nitrous systems, fogger nozzels in the runners and a Viper Style stage in pleuium system (two solidoids on the front face). Starting to plumb the engine with nitrous and fuel lines, easy stuff done now it's the regulators and fuel blocks from the pump as shown in the photo of the real deal.

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Your plumbing's looking great, Ian. I've been meaning to ask--which scale do you prefer working in? I can see advantages and disadvantages to both larger scales, and 1/25th. I don't think I'd ever complete a 1/12th model, because I would never feel like I could stop adding stuff!😃 This is going to be an incredible piece, my friend.

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Good question Daniel, I think I've become most comfortable with 1/16th, small enough to still fit on a shelf and big enough to detail with old eyes and fat fingers. The only reason I'm doing this in 1/12th is that I have owned the kit for decades,  lots of decades, original release. Bought  it in California on a trip to the Winternationals.   Like you said this could be a never ending project and I have had to set a limit on the detail I'm including as I have other projects I want to build.  That being said this is a fun project and thank you for the kind words. PS, I am blown away with your detailing of the dragster it's going to be such a great model.

Edited by Ian McLaren
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4 hours ago, Straightliner59 said:

Your plumbing's looking great, Ian. I've been meaning to ask--which scale do you prefer working in? I can see advantages and disadvantages to both larger scales, and 1/25th. I don't think I'd ever complete a 1/12th model, because I would never feel like I could stop adding stuff!😃 This is going to be an incredible piece, my friend.

See above.

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17 hours ago, Ian McLaren said:

Good question Daniel, I think I've become most comfortable with 1/16th, small enough to still fit on a shelf and big enough to detail with old eyes and fat fingers. The only reason I'm doing this in 1/12th is that I have owned the kit for decades,  lots of decades, original release. Bought  it in California on a trip to the Winternationals.   Like you said this could be a never ending project and I have had to set a limit on the detail I'm including as I have other projects I want to build.  That being said this is a fun project and thank you for the kind words. PS, I am blown away with your detailing of the dragster it's going to be such a great model.

It's well worth the wait. I think I was working in a hobby distributorship, when these came out. That's almost 35 years ago, I would guess. Thank you for the kind words, re: the dragster. It looks like I'm not too far off, from building the motor!

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