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1/12th Scale 69 Camaro Top Sportsman Suspension and chassis jig.


Ian McLaren

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3 hours ago, AmericanMuscleFan said:

The "to do list" is pretty extensive but it is good news for those who like this kind of build and I am one of them! ?

By the way, the master cylinder and line lock are both superb!

Thank you Francis for the kind words, and yes it's a long list but I'm still having fun with it.

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I've been busy but not really much that would be of interest but the to do list is shrinking. The dash and instrument panel have been the major focus but too soon in the process for photos. Also the chassis is getting bars added( body support structure) brackets and cable/line guides installed. One piece of minor interest might be the master cutoff switch and bracket that are in progress. The actuating rod and knob that go through the rear panel are in progress but will be later as they have to be sized once the switch is permanently mounted.

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Thank you Francis, it looks fairly good once it's sitting in the trunk area, but I may build a second one to eliminate a couple of short comings. The bracket at least can be cut down and mounted to the chassis permanently as I'm trying to get the chassis ready to paint but there is a long way to go there as well.

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Small update, I have decieded go a bit old style with Moroso gold anodized stamped alumimun valve covers and breathers, i have also come up with an upgrade for the kit starter motor and the parachute rough master is ready to cast33941968_IMG_0206(1).JPG.4cabf78204b7c8ac874739361055ef61.JPG1564389045_IMG_0200(1).JPG.b4fb5404d4bc5738e3e887b18738957a.JPG1070939005_IMG_0201(1).JPG.96a0a142dd2e12036c0ae531eae835fd.JPG

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Edited by Ian McLaren
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Francis I agree whole heartedly, enen though I have been involved with many cars and engines since the gold  Moroso era,  they do not replace the fact that these covers epitomize what my mind goes to first when race engines are the topic of discussion.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've been out of town for a while, not much modeling done, I have been going back and improving some already "completed" sub assembliesand starting to add items to the body, quarter window supports and such also routing and installing guides for the chute cables and fire system lines, cleaned up, and replace the sutoff knobs on the Nitrous  tanks. Also the wheel nuts and studs arrived but I anm still waiting on the bead lock bolts to arrive from RB Motion1913850740_IMG_02331.JPG.c704353190e6cfde58171b6bb28d5386.JPG908758759_IMG_02261.JPG.b55675cf25b53943e8d7ecc312bce9f3.JPG

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I've been under the weather for a few days, and also spending time setting up and starting to learn how to use my new 3D resin printer. But I did get some modeling done as well.  Parachutes have been cast and painted and look to be good enough to use. Built front caliper mounts and installed them on the front struts, luckily everything fits and clearancesIMG_0252.JPG.dd36b69e44f2d2f5ab08dad4cbde4701.JPGIMG_0254.JPG.7ee6a6ac47d828ab6264537c2924ee60.JPGIMG_0250.JPG.951b21c752f6d0c9809c2710348b65fe.JPGIMG_0251.JPG.bb818bc8000339d80d93b6699999dc21.JPGIMG_0248.JPG.62db0e97ce51a3c31b008bc217db6c74.JPG are good.

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It's always exciting to have a new toy in our arsenal for making custom parts and a 3D printer will certainly add a lot of possibilities.  Despite my experience in computer graphics and my knowledge of vector software, I have not yet made the leap into the world of 3D but I salivate in imagining all that it can bring to this hobby.  I'm still old school and will try to continue making my parts the old fashioned way as long as I'm able, but I'm sure the 3D world could add many years to my favorite hobby when my hands start to shake.  I hope you get better and are back to full health soon my friend, the chutes and brakes are top quality! ?

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17 hours ago, AmericanMuscleFan said:

It's always exciting to have a new toy in our arsenal for making custom parts and a 3D printer will certainly add a lot of possibilities.  Despite my experience in computer graphics and my knowledge of vector software, I have not yet made the leap into the world of 3D but I salivate in imagining all that it can bring to this hobby.  I'm still old school and will try to continue making my parts the old fashioned way as long as I'm able, but I'm sure the 3D world could add many years to my favorite hobby when my hands start to shake.  I hope you get better and are back to full health soon my friend, the chutes and brakes are top quality! ?

The 3D printer allows me the chance to get closer to what you fellows can machine but at a fraction of the cost to get started. What it can't  do (at least at the level I can afford) is match the look and feel of the real metals. As you said another toy in the arsenal and BTW thanks for the kind words  on the parts. Saw the doctor yesterday and everything checked out Ok, did adjust my meds slightly but just due to the amount of time that has past since they were prescribed.

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Floor tins are fitted and installed, as far as the welded steel panels that will be painted chassis color are concerned.  The parachute release handle has been fabricated and mocked up with the cables temporarily run, Aluminum and or C/F floor panel have be fitted but not installed waiting surface finish selection

 

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Progress today,templating rear tin and trying to determine the order of assembly. First set of templates, registration marks showing needed adjustments on next set. Also a method for making curved structures (eg wheel tubs) without heat. This method courtesy of Francis LaflammeIMG_0012.JPG.893b5e212a46cead8ba85aaf2f603e28.JPG733061842_IMG_00131.JPG.fee3179315ba14426179eb4864b7a417.JPGIMG_0004.JPG.ad4cce10c32bf25d16cf273a9b05b935.JPGIMG_0007.JPG.13f00e7b7ca52db9ec50f743f72aacdd.JPGIMG_0010.JPG.bf78b71bd65037ed428c447b113aca28.JPG. So simple I don't know why I didn't think of it. First the you need is a form of the desired radius, jar, bottle or in my case partially, used roll of masking tape.. Cut out two rectangles a bit wider than the maximum width of the tub ( allows for trimming). And long enough to to match the circumfrence of the formge out a roll of masking tape a wide (3/8 to 1/2 wide) old brush and your favorite liqiud glue. Oh and you are going to need a third hand for a bit. This next part has to be done qickly and neatly. Using the wide brush wet the surface of one of the sheets then press them together. this is where you will need the extra hand, IMEADIATLY wrap them around the form and secure with tight wraps of masking tape. Let sit for at least an hours (more is better) until the liquid cement is dry. Remove the tape and you have a curved smooth piece of material with which to build your tubs. I did find once I removed the tape the mateials radius did spring out a bit, but it is still very manageable. If I was to do it again I would go a bit smaller (10%?) on the diameter for a closer initial fit.

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Finally the bead lock bolts arrived, .042 head and a .025 dia stem, 34 per wheel what a marathon but boy do they look the part. A huge thank you to Jeff Faris for the most kick ass wheels I have ever seen, and also Robert Bentley (RB Motion) for the finishing touch.IMG_0025.JPG.5ca2f83a01842d6a514f4dc0af7b7a53.JPGIMG_0026.JPG.329c33dc35134559da837abe3e7f94ec.JPG

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On 5/8/2023 at 11:35 PM, Ian McLaren said:

If I was to do it again I would go a bit smaller (10%?) on the diameter for a closer initial fit.

Nice job on the wheel tubes Ian!

This is exactly how I go about getting the desired radius using a slightly smaller template knowing that the shape will tend to be slightly larger.  An assortment of sockets is very useful for this as each bolt size requires a slightly larger socket than the previous one, so there are many sizes to choose from.

The wheels are great, at 34 bolts per wheel it will cost you a small fortune but it takes what it takes when you get there! ? 

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First primer coat to see trouble areas that need to be addressed.  This week has been all about the chassis and cleaning up joints and panels, rear tin installed as are the fire wall panels828059913_IMG_00391.JPG.748dac33e277969ba0ccb0556dbe1629.JPG399783877_IMG_00401.JPG.02d279c8be57be8f7f5a3a56d4a307c6.JPGIMG_0021.JPG.af69af2ef81bc0f1cc77fd54789f7246.JPG

Edited by Ian McLaren
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Baby steps, mostly cleaning up previous work or redoing it for the third time ( door hinges). Fire wall and side fender close out panels fitted, but need finishing. Door had rear edge built up to close the gaps and now swings open properly and can be slipped off the prototypical hinge pins for display. Sanded and touched up the rear tins and added most of the door side bars to both sides. The front upper door bars have been left off as I have discovered a fitment issue with the factory style dash board. There with be some modifcation to the dash required, but the bulk of the issue can be handled by changing the order of assembly in that area1431624816_IMG_0041(3).JPG.59463a82fe34d8d04cd0abd73d92b53d.JPG

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