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Scribing panel lines. How is it done?


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Hello all, 
I’d like to deepen the lines between panels on my builds but am not able to figure out the best way to do so. 
How do you deepen the lines without slipping and gouging a line in the body? Is there an easy way to do this?

Thanks for reading.
Stay safe and enjoy!

 

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I have a round pointy titanium tool I use. Got it from a gundam place.  I don't like it, not at all.  It jumps out of the panel lines very easily and I have to keep sanding and re-sanding the surrounding body panels when it jumps out and scratches the body.

One time this happened so often that my body panel scratch removal sanding out paced my panel line scribing, and one of my panel lines got lost in the sanding.

I need a better tool.

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Just now, 89AKurt said:

Get a quality tool to begin with.  Tamiya with the green tip is my weapon of choice.  Use a steel ruler for straight lines, if the groove isn't very deep.  Be patient on curved lines.

My tool is high quality.  I think the problem is the type of tool it is.

It is a sharp pointy round cone shape. It isn't a blade you run through panel lines.  I think that is my problem.

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I have tried several different tools from a #11 too tools designed specifically for scribing. There are several tutorials on scribing here on the forum. I would read them and experiment with some of the suggested tools until you find what works best for you. The use of some sort of guide would be a good idea along with practice on spare bodies before you go after whatever you're working on. 

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I used to use a BMF scribing tool, but I found that I get better results with an old, dull, backwards #11 blade.

The BMF scriber is too wide for a convincing panel line.

 

My technique is as follows.

Run a sharp #11 blade around the panel lightly a few times to give the dull blade something to dig into.

Then I begin using the backwards blade, just a couple of inches at a time until I am about to the depth that I'm shooting for, then move on to the next couple of inches.

Rounded corners are the most difficult, but as with any scribing tool, you just have to go slowly and lightly until the depth develops.

Once I've finished with the #11 blade, I'll usually get down into the groove a little more with a sharp pointed dental tool, and possibly a pointed round file, just to clean things up a little.

Finally, I'll lightly sand the edges of the groove to ease over the sharp edges a little.

 

It's kind of hard to describe some of these steps, but I find that I can get a lot better job, a lot faster with the #11 blade, than I ever could with the scriber.

 

The panel lines on the '64 Bonneville I'm working on were done in this fashion, and if I recall correctly, I don't remember the blade jumping out and scratching the body once.

No darkening of the panel lines is required at all if you get them deep enough.

 

I also do all of the body moldings in the same fashion to give them more depth and make them easier to foil.

 

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These are the tools that I use in order from left to right, with the second from the left "dull blade" doing the brunt of the work.

(By the way, by a "dull blade" I mean that it actually has the very tip broken off) ;)

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Steve

 

Edited by StevenGuthmiller
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In answer to your question, no, there is no "easy" way to do this.  Rescribbing or for that matter, scribing new panel lines takes time, patience and a steady hand.  I have several tools all of which work well in a given situation.  I love the Tamiya engraving tools, but they are darned expensive .Expensive is an understatement each blade retails for about $35.   The advantage it that they are very sharp and cut a square bottom slot.  They also come in a variety of widths from .5mm down to .1mm.  They can be had for as little at $17 from overseas suppliers.  If you get these, forget the   tamiya handle and use a good pinvise.  The knurling on the pin vise makes for a better grip.  Patients and practice.  Only way to get them done. 

 https://www.tamiyausa.com/search/?q=engraving

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13 minutes ago, Pete J. said:

In answer to your question, no, there is no "easy" way to do this.  Rescribbing or for that matter, scribing new panel lines takes time, patience and a steady hand. 

That's the truth!

Like many other operations in our hobby, there are really no short cuts.

 

 

Steve

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I have tried a few different tools including the back of a #11 blade and also the butt end of a #80 drill bit chucked real short in a pin vise. The most trouble I’ve encountered with any of them is when I apply too much pressure and try to remove too much material at once. A light touch and patience is the key.

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2 hours ago, NOBLNG said:

I have tried a few different tools including the back of a #11 blade and also the butt end of a #80 drill bit chucked real short in a pin vise. The most trouble I’ve encountered with any of them is when I apply too much pressure and try to remove too much material at once. A light touch and patience is the key.

Agreed!

Let the tool do the work, whatever the tool may be.

 

 

 

Steve

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Experience and finesse are the key. I use a #11 blade with just a smidgen of the tip broken off. You must start out slowly and with a light touch. You can get a little more aggressive as you progress. I bought a Tamiya scribing tool and made 2 off line gouges in the first five strokes. Once I settled down, I found the groove too wide for my liking. It will probably be used for something else some day. Scribing is a finessed skill. Practice on junk bodies.

Panel liner after the fact is hit or miss so far for me. Too dark on lighter colors and sometimes goes/wicks where I do not want is to.

Steve's results speak for themselves.

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On 3/31/2023 at 7:30 PM, Bills72sj said:

Experience and finesse are the key. I use a #11 blade with just a smidgen of the tip broken off. You must start out slowly and with a light touch. You can get a little more aggressive as you progress. I bought a Tamiya scribing tool and made 2 off line gouges in the first five strokes. Once I settled down, I found the groove too wide for my liking. It will probably be used for something else some day. Scribing is a finessed skill. Practice on junk bodies.

Panel liner after the fact is hit or miss so far for me. Too dark on lighter colors and sometimes goes/wicks where I do not want is to.

Steve's results speak for themselves.

I agree with the Tamiya scribing tool.  That tool is too big and clunky,  but don't mistake the Tamiya engraving tools for the same thing.  Entirely different tool! They offer blades from .5 mm down to .1 mm.  I use them with a pin vise

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Does anyone have panel scribing advice for a body made of a variety of materials? For example, a custom with these:

Kit styrene and Evergreen styrene with liquid cement

CA glue

Filler putty (two-part such as Bondo)

 

When building customs I've found it impossible because of the differing hardness of the material, especially when the filler is feather-edged to the styrene in the to-be-scribed area.

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12 hours ago, chepp said:

Does anyone have panel scribing advice for a body made of a variety of materials? For example, a custom with these:

Kit styrene and Evergreen styrene with liquid cement

CA glue

Filler putty (two-part such as Bondo)

 

When building customs I've found it impossible because of the differing hardness of the material, especially when the filler is feather-edged to the styrene in the to-be-scribed area.

The only thing I can suggest is use a good quality, sharp scriber with a very light touch on all passes. Clamp a straight edge guide on for straight sections until you have a deep enough trench to freehand it.

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13 hours ago, chepp said:

Does anyone have panel scribing advice for a body made of a variety of materials? For example, a custom with these:

Kit styrene and Evergreen styrene with liquid cement

CA glue

Filler putty (two-part such as Bondo)

 

When building customs I've found it impossible because of the differing hardness of the material, especially when the filler is feather-edged to the styrene in the to-be-scribed area.

For sections crossing the boundaries of material types I recommend a good set of photo etched saws and a straightedge to get the groove started then scribe from there.  I have been using Hasegawas saws for a long time.  They have several different types that vary in thickness and tpi.  Very adaptable. 
  This is the fine set and yes they have teeth.  You just have to look very closely. 
http://www.hasegawa-model.co.jp/hsite/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/tp4pk_th.gif

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On 4/3/2023 at 9:26 AM, Pete J. said:

For sections crossing the boundaries of material types I recommend a good set of photo etched saws and a straightedge to get the groove started then scribe from there.  I have been using Hasegawas saws for a long time.  They have several different types that vary in thickness and tpi.  Very adaptable. 
  This is the fine set and yes they have teeth.  You just have to look very closely. 
http://www.hasegawa-model.co.jp/hsite/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/tp4pk_th.gif

Thanks! I wasn't able to locate the TP-4 but I've just placed an order for the similar TP-3.

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Thanks everyone for all the great advice. 
Raoul: Thanks for the link the read was very helpful.
ctruss53: Will avoid the round pointy tools. 
89AKurt* Will look for a Tamiya green tip tool.
espo: Will find the other tutorials here.And get some scribing tape. Assuming I can find it. 
SteveGuthmiller: Thanks for the detailed description of your technique. And all the other advice in replying to others' comments. The results of your technique shown in your photos speak for its effectiveness.
PeteJ. : Will pick up some Tamiya tools. I don't think they will be that expensive here in Japan. Will try and learn patience. 
Ace-Garageguy: That is the set I plan to get. Glad to hear that the learning curve is not a steep one. 


Again thanks for the awesome advice!
This is an awesome forum!
Stay safe and enjoy!

 

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On 4/7/2023 at 7:28 PM, Ace-Garageguy said:

My favorite scribing tools so far:

Tamiya Fine Engraver Tool Review

After a short learning curve, I'm very happy with them:

 

 

I agree, except for the handle.  Too skinny and it seems to roll from side to side.   I use a larger pin vise. Seems to give me better control.

Edited by Pete J.
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