Revell spray chrome test.

[GMP440]

Looks promising.   I still need to go out to the garage and try out the Revell Chrome spray paint I bought recently.  

 

 

 

 

Edited March 20, 2024 by GMP440

[Sledsel]

21 hours ago, Bugatti Fan said:

That's the video on Green Stuff Chrome that I looked at Jim. Thanks for putting it up on this thread.

I must say that it looks impressive, especially the chrome being simply grabbed onto the figure.

It will be interesting to learn what people who have used it think about it.

I just ordered some of the brush type and am going to do some small parts

[Bugatti Fan]

Corrected my earlier post to read 'dabbed on the figure'.

[Chris V]

I used Green Stuff World's brush paint Chrome to cover up the bare plastic surface when I enlarged the center hub hole in this mag wheel from Revell's "Beatnik Bandit": 

[Mothersworry]

Johan Maverick front bumper in airbrushed Green Stuff World chrome. 

[tim boyd]

On 1/23/2024 at 1:47 PM, tim boyd said:

I painted an original issue MPC 1970 Challenger front bumper with Revell chrome about ten days ago.  Back in the day (er..that would be 1971...) I had partly removed the front bumper guards for a Pro-Stock project; so for this test I had to finish removing the bumper guards, then sand that area to a smooth finish as well as sand off all the remaining original plating.  The first round was 360 grit, followed by 500 and finished with 1500. 

I then applied  a single, pretty heavy coat of Revell Chrom.  It flowed really nicely and gave a glass smooth appearance out of the  spray booth.  Looked equally good after a day (no sign of any sanding or mods to the part).  Yesterday (about 10 days after) it still looked just as smooth. So far no issues after light handling, and still a perfect finish.  No dehydrator in this case, and no clear coat.  Very, very encouraging.   At least so far.  Clearly superior to anything else I've tried.   TB  

Update.  When installing the front bumper on the model (probably about 3-4 weeks after spraying it with chrome, the edges of the bumper showed discoloration from holding the bumper in place as the Five Minute Epoxy (main body was a resin rebop) dried.  So....looks like I will need to use ClearCoat in the future.  Tried to order SpaxStic Clear Chrome spray but they were sold out; did acquire it in airbrush form.  Area of bumper that was not touched during install still looks great.   

You can see the discolored area on the portion of the bumper that faces the driver's side front...

  

Best....TIM 

[Mothersworry]

AMT '29 Ford roadster, stripped the chrome and shot it with Revell spray chrome. I use nitrile archival gloves when handling the "re-chromed" parts and have zero issues with marring the parts.

It's  shiny but looks more like nickel than chrome which in this case is OK as Hank used nickel plating on most of the shiny bits instead of chrome.

For what it's worth I prefer Green Stuff World Chrome for airbrush as it looks more like chrome and seems to be more durable than Revell Chrome and certainly not nearly as costly.

[tim boyd]

2 hours ago, Mothersworry said:

AMT '29 Ford roadster, stripped the chrome and shot it with Revell spray chrome. I use nitrile archival gloves when handling the "re-chromed" parts and have zero issues with marring the parts.

It's  shiny but looks more like nickel than chrome which in this case is OK as Hank used nickel plating on most of the shiny bits instead of chrome.

For what it's worth I prefer Green Stuff World Chrome for airbrush as it looks more like chrome and seems to be more durable than Revell Chrome and certainly not nearly as costly.

Thanks for the info...good suggestion on the nitrile gloves, too!  Cheers...TB

PS - that's a very, very sharp build of that old AMT kit!!! 

[MarkJ]

I'm using some Revell Chrom after it arrives hopefully Saturday. I'm redoing some wheels I did in AlcladII chrome, and you are saying I don't have to shoot this stuff over gloss black? Is that correct?   I know this is an old thread, but I hope it pops up in your emails and you can answer. Thank you for doing the test and providing excellent pictures of your results. Needless to say, I am very excited about using this product.

[av405]

No need for a gloss black backing. 

[MarkJ]

4 minutes ago, av405 said:

No need for a gloss black backing. 

Thanks, Alberto. I actually found that out by watching the 24-minute video somebody posted in this thread. The main thing it seems is the part has to be ultra smooth and cleaned off with 70 % alcohol wipe before shooting it, and light quick bursts like the guy in the video does to the spoons. You also need to let it dry for at least 24 hours before you even think about touching it.

[av405]

Those aren't bad tips but it's not the only way. When I've used it in the past, I made sure I sanded down the parts and then cleaned them with clean water and a cloth. I painted with 2 passes, but in retrospect, the bursts out of the can are strong and smooth, so I could have painted with one smooth pass. 24 hrs is good, but I gave it a few days. But yes, you're on the right track. Clean parts, light passes to be on the safe side, and plenty of drying time. I recommend you paint a scrap part concurrent to your main piece(s). That way, you can use the scarp part to gauge when the piece is dry and safe to handle. 

Edited August 29, 2024 by av405

[MarkJ]

1 hour ago, av405 said:

Those aren't bad tips but it's not the only way. When I've used it in the past, I made sure I sanded down the parts and then cleaned them with clean water and a cloth. I painted with 2 passes, but in retrospect, the bursts out of the can are strong and smooth, so I could have painted with one smooth pass. 24 hrs is good, but I gave it a few days. But yes, you're on the right track. Clean parts, light passes to be on the safe side, and plenty of drying time. I recommend you paint a scrap part concurrent to your main piece(s). That way, you can use the scarp part to gauge when the piece is dry and safe to handle. 

Thanks for the tip, Alberto. I will shoot a spoon or two first before I shoot the real part just to know if I'm in the ballpark and I will increase the drying time.

[Can-Con]

7 hours ago, MarkJ said:

I'm using some Revell Chrom after it arrives hopefully Saturday. I'm redoing some wheels I did in AlcladII chrome, and you are saying I don't have to shoot this stuff over gloss black? Is that correct?   I know this is an old thread, but I hope it pops up in your emails and you can answer. Thank you for doing the test and providing excellent pictures of your results. Needless to say, I am very excited about using this product.

What the guys said above is accurate.

When I did mine I let it set for a week and brushed a coat of Future on it and let it sit another couple days. No problems.

I understand Spaz Stix makes a spray cleat for their chrome spray that works well on the Revell spray also.

[bobss396]

I have a can on order I got on eBay, finally some decent volume of it has arrived. Definitely the most expensive can of "paint" I have ever bought.

[MarkJ]

16 hours ago, Can-Con said:

What the guys said above is accurate.

When I did mine I let it set for a week and brushed a coat of Future on it and let it sit another couple days. No problems.

I understand Spaz Stix makes a spray cleat for their chrome spray that works well on the Revell spray also.

Thanks for the tip on future, Steve, and the recommendation about how long to let everything dry. Finding your old thread was a godsend for me to know how to use this mucho expensive stuff. I bought two cans so I think that should be a lifetime supply for me for the things I will use it for. I mainly like that all bumpers in the future with lots of flash and sink holes and the year model molded into the license pocket can be fixed now and then refinished with this stuff. 

[MarkJ]

1 hour ago, bobss396 said:

I have a can on order I got on eBay, finally some decent volume of it has arrived. Definitely the most expensive can of "paint" I have ever bought.

Yes, Bob, but worth every cent of it.  Now if you're planning on painting a whole car body that might be an extravagant use of the product.

[mikos]

If we don’t have a dehydrator, how long do we need to wait for it dry?  A week?  

[Bugatti Fan]

Not used the Revell Chrome that I understand is only available as an aerosol and very expensive too !

I started to use C1 polishing powder instead of the spray on chromes some time ago and not looked back.

It buffs up really well and the great thing about it is that it is resilient to handling after application. It needs to go onto a gloss black finish for the best effect. I normally spray the bits with matt black acrylic and when dry dip them in the old Johnson's Kleer ( or modern equivalent of ). Once hardened off the C1 is applied and polished up to a really good shine. It is great for trying out to obtain different effects by using it over other gloss colours or matt finishes. The tub of powder you get in the box is substantial and will last for ages. Application is by little swabs supplied that wear through quite quickly. They look a bit like small make up applicators. I started to use cotton wool buds as applicators as they are plentiful and cheap to buy.

 

 

[MarkJ]

I got my Revell Chrom on Saturday and decided to try it outside yesterday. I wanted to see how it would do on an over 90% humidity day. Wasn't good. First spoon I had to put too much material down to make it gloss so the material kind of puddled up and also looked like it had trash in it which it didn't. the second spoon I got too far away, and it blushed badly. I'm supposed to get a front on Thursday which will bring the humidity down in the 60% range. I hope I get better results then. And I hope the front actually comes through. We don't usually get cold fronts down here in southeast Texas in early September.

[thatz4u]

2 hours ago, MarkJ said:

I got my Revell Chrom on Saturday and decided to try it outside yesterday. I wanted to see how it would do on an over 90% humidity day. Wasn't good. First spoon I had to put too much material down to make it gloss so the material kind of puddled up and also looked like it had trash in it which it didn't. the second spoon I got too far away, and it blushed badly. I'm supposed to get a front on Thursday which will bring the humidity down in the 60% range. I hope I get better results then. And I hope the front actually comes through. We don't usually get cold fronts down here in southeast Texas in early September.

good idea to try again in lower humidity...were in Deep East Texas are you??

[MarkJ]

49 minutes ago, thatz4u said:

good idea to try again in lower humidity...were in Deep East Texas are you??

I'm in deep southeast Texas which is even worse when it comes to humidity.

[thatz4u]

23 hours ago, MarkJ said:

I'm in deep southeast Texas which is even worse when it comes to humidity.

near Beaumont ??

[MarkJ]

6 hours ago, thatz4u said:

near Beaumont ??

Nope, more like Galveston. We have air you can wear in the summertime.

[yh70]

On 11/30/2023 at 8:06 PM, NOBLNG said:

After Dave (yh70) recommended the Spax Stix clear, I grabbed a can this morning. I am optimistic about it. This spoon is coated with the Revell chrome paint and has been sitting in my dehydrator for weeks. I sprayed one light coat on the tip half of the spoon and then an hour later one heavy coat. The heavy coat seems to have maybe melted through and disturbed the chrome a bit? I think with the multiple LIGHT coats as suggested it would be fine. The shine of the chrome is hardly diminished in my eye. They also have it in bottles for airbrushing (10900).

Thanks Dave!

your welcome Greg..