Is this a gloss clear coat?

[Milo]

3 hours ago, Mopar maniac 74 said:

Milo

I use testors 1814 gloss clear enamel on anything with decals like race cars etc.  It does not hurt the paint or wrinkle the decals.  Model round up usually has in stock.

Any cars not having large decals I usually just polish McGuire #7 then #3 then pledge polish.

You don't get any yellowing from enamel clear coats?

[Milo]

45 minutes ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

Be careful with the Testors enamel gloss coats too.

I'm not sure of the one that you've referenced Jeff, but the old Testors clear gloss enamel in the spray can, right up to the Model Master gloss enamel, will yellow horribly right out of the can, especially over light colors, and it has a tendency to worsen over time.

I sprayed the clear portion of this steering wheel with Model Master #2936 "High Gloss Enamel Top Coat" solely for the purpose of giving it a slightly aged look, and it worked perfectly.

Wouldn't look so perfect over a white paint job though.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Steve

Are those all decals on the odometers or is that a nice paint job?

[ctruss53]

I use Mr Super Clear UV Cut gloss clear from Mr Hobby.  It is a lacquer, and I can't explain the chemistry, but it has worked over everything I have sprayed it on.

Having said that I have not applied it over enamels, because I don't use them.

But it works over acrylic and lacquer paints. And it also works over decals.

[StevenGuthmiller]

1 hour ago, Milo said:

Are those all decals on the odometers or is that a nice paint job?

The gauge faces are all decals.

 

 

 

Steve

[StevenGuthmiller]

55 minutes ago, ctruss53 said:

I use Mr Super Clear UV Cut gloss clear from Mr Hobby.  It is a lacquer, and I can't explain the chemistry, but it has worked over everything I have sprayed it on.

Having said that I have not applied it over enamels, because I don't use them.

But it works over acrylic and lacquer paints. And it also works over decals.

If it works over decals, chances are very good that it'll work over enamel.

 

 

 

Steve

[NOBLNG]

4 hours ago, ctruss53 said:

I use Mr Super Clear UV Cut gloss clear from Mr Hobby.  It is a lacquer, and I can't explain the chemistry, but it has worked over everything I have sprayed it on.

Having said that I have not applied it over enamels, because I don't use them.

But it works over acrylic and lacquer paints. And it also works over decals.

The can says not to use it over decals. You may have gotten lucky?

3 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

If it works over decals, chances are very good that it'll work over enamel.

 

 

 

Steve

This is the UV Cut clear over enamel. 99% of it worked fine though. 

Edited July 19, 2023 by NOBLNG

[Mopar maniac 74]

17 hours ago, Milo said:

You don't get any yellowing from enamel clear coats?

It does yellow a little over white but I don't notice it over solid colors.  I usually only clear if I put decals on a model.

As with everything try it over a spare piece to see if you like it.

[ctruss53]

13 hours ago, NOBLNG said:

The can says not to use it over decals. You may have gotten lucky?

 

It isn't luck. I have done it over and over.

Maybe it has to do with my application technique.  I build up the clearcoat with light coats. Then apply one heavy coat at the end.

[Milo]

 

This guy goes against a lot of things that I have heard. They clear coated and wet sanded and polished after the decals. 

[Can-Con]

1 hour ago, Milo said:

This guy goes against a lot of things that I have heard. They clear coated and wet sanded and polished after the decals. 

That's exactly what I'm doing right now.

[StevenGuthmiller]

4 hours ago, Milo said:

This guy goes against a lot of things that I have heard. They clear coated and wet sanded and polished after the decals. 

Pretty much how do it too.

 

I just don't have the fortitude to do it with a Dremel!

 

 

 

Steve

[BDSchindler]

5 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

Pretty much how do it too.

I just don't have the fortitude to do it with a Dremel!

Steve

The secret is not to use high speed..I have done it many times at a slow speed (500-700 rpm) on plastic models, diecast cars and more!  Yes, you can burn through but if you are patient, the results are worth it.

[Bills72sj]

Looks great. I am not sure I have the patience. I do like the Dremel pads though.

[Milo]

On 7/19/2023 at 1:22 PM, StevenGuthmiller said:

Be careful with the Testors enamel gloss coats too.

I'm not sure of the one that you've referenced Jeff, but the old Testors clear gloss enamel in the spray can, right up to the Model Master gloss enamel, will yellow horribly right out of the can, especially over light colors, and it has a tendency to worsen over time.

I sprayed the clear portion of this steering wheel with Model Master #2936 "High Gloss Enamel Top Coat" solely for the purpose of giving it a slightly aged look, and it worked perfectly.

Wouldn't look so perfect over a white paint job though.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Steve

How did you do that, are there tutorials anywhere for how to do that kind of interior detail? I'm working on a gt500 and I want it to look something like this:

[StevenGuthmiller]

17 hours ago, Milo said:

How did you do that, are there tutorials anywhere for how to do that kind of interior detail? I'm working on a gt500 and I want it to look something like this:

I wouldn't know about any tutorials on interior detailing.

 

All that I can tell you is "Patience and Time".

Do plenty of research, pay attention to the little things, and don't be afraid to experiment.

 

 

 

 

Steve

 

[StevenGuthmiller]

On 7/19/2023 at 6:48 PM, NOBLNG said:

The can says not to use it over decals. You may have gotten lucky?

This is the UV Cut clear over enamel. 99% of it worked fine though. 

On a side note, this is another reason why I foil after clear.

If something goes wrong during the clear coating process, and the model has to make a trip to the pond, all of that work and time foiling was for naught.

 

 

 

 

Steve

[NOBLNG]

8 minutes ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

On a side note, this is another reason why I foil after clear.

If something goes wrong during the clear coating process, and the model has to make a trip to the pond, all of that work and time foiling was for naught.

 

 

 

 

Steve

Very good point!?

[Milo]

3 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

I wouldn't know about any tutorials on interior detailing.

 

All that I can tell you is "Patience and Time".

Do plenty of research, pay attention to the little things, and don't be afraid to experiment.

 

 

 

 

Steve

 

I don't have any decals for the dash, how can I do the odometers and stuff?

[Rodent]

A 1968 Mustang deluxe interior is a poor choice for a first attempt at super-detailing IMHO. Too much going on, too many finishes.

[StevenGuthmiller]

1 hour ago, Milo said:

I don't have any decals for the dash, how can I do the odometers and stuff?

"Best Model Car Parts" will have what you're looking for.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Steve

[StevenGuthmiller]

1 hour ago, Rodent said:

A 1968 Mustang deluxe interior is a poor choice for a first attempt at super-detailing IMHO. Too much going on, too many finishes.

Yet a "first attempt" will have to be made at some point, and I don't think a Mustang is as bad as a lot of others.

 

I personally wouldn't shy away from it.

Looks like pretty much a wood grain background, gauge decals, and thin silver wire around the gauges and wood insert.

Not a bunch of extra knobs and buttons, or a ton of extra bright work, vents, pods, etc.

Seems relatively straight forward.

A heck of a lot less going on than the '64 Bonneville dash.

 

 

 

 

Steve

[Milo]

18 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

"Best Model Car Parts" will have what you're looking for.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Steve

It's not for sale...

[StevenGuthmiller]

1 hour ago, Milo said:

It's not for sale...

You can buy them on eBay.

Best Model Car Parts has a “store” there.

$2.99 a set.

 

 

 

 

Steve

[Milo]

+ 5 dolla tax

and they don't have the chrome metal sheets for logos on ebay

[atomicholiday]

This is only my opinion.  Master the basics first.  There’s absolutely nothing wrong with trying out more advanced techniques, but they won’t make a model look “better” if you still have mold seems, sink marks, orange peel paint, etc, etc…

Not to say you shouldn’t try new things.  That’s how you improve.  But the extra detail isn’t completely necessary to a good clean building style.There are some incredible builders that only use what’s in the box.

Also, be careful not to compare your work or abilities to others on this or any other forum.  There are some truly talented people on here, but I guarantee it took them a long time to get to that level.  Thinking you have to be as good as them is a trap.

Most importantly, have fun.  And keep practicing.?