Cutting/shaping model "glass"

[Monty]

I've got a convertible kit body that will be using the front "glass" from a hardtop body.  The windshield wraps around to provide glass for the vent windows, but I'd like to cut that off and make them separately (from acetate?) to make it more like a 1:1 car.

In my few interactions with it, clear styrene always seemed more brittle and less capable of being easily cut or shaped, so any suggestions regarding this would be appreciated.   

[Deathgoblin]

Masking the areas to be kept helps a lot.  I've used a Zona saw or the back of an Xacto blade to do cuts on clear parts.  You're right that clear parts are more breakable: the best advice I can offer is to work slowly.  

[Tabbysdaddy]

Practice on the runner that connects the front and back glass. If they're already separate then practice on the rear glass that you won't be using. 

[GLMFAA1]

If your not using the part you are cutting off I find it easier to use Dremel sanding drums to remove clear parts.

greg

[StevenGuthmiller]

While this may not be a technique that everybody may want to employ, I feel that it might be worth bringing up.

It's a little difficult to describe if you have never tried it, so bear with me.

 

For some time now, I've been using a technique that I picked up somewhere, (I'm not certain who it came from initially) but I consider it a kind of "friction fit" solution.

I start by creating interior A-pillar pieces glued to the inside of the A-pillars of the body, leaving a narrow "channel" wide enough for a very thin piece of clear plastic to fit into. (I use .007 clear film)

Then a piece of the film is cut slightly larger than the window opening so that once slid into place, the friction of the fit will create the curvature of the glass to some extent, and doesn't require any glue at all on the sides of the glass.

A very thin bead of glue, (I use epoxy) along the top of the glass, followed by some careful taping, clamping and gluing along the bottom edge will hold the glass firmly in place.

 

This technique as several advantages over kit glass.

First, kit glass is inevitably too thick, causing distortion and appearing toy like and unrealistic.

The thin film gives a more in scale appearance.

Likewise, the addition of the A-pillar trim and the manner in which the glass is installed gives a much more realistic finish to the inside of the model, as opposed to the thick edges of the kit glass inevitably exposed on the inside of the window opening.

This is especially noticeable on a convertible where the inside of the window areas are nearly as visible as the outside.

 

It's a bit of a time consuming solution, but then again, as always, it's worth the effort if you want your model to exhibit the best detail and finish possible.

 

Just another option that is available.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Steve

[Fat Brian]

Here's a source for super thin and clear plastic sheets, makeup palettes. My wife is a makeup junkie and every palette she buys has a sheet of crystal clear plastic that's paper thin and whatever size the palette is. I used some for vent windows on a recent build and they practically disappear. 

[peteski]

There is no information about the source of the plastic sheets in your post Brian.

[espo]

34 minutes ago, peteski said:

There is no information about the source of the plastic sheets in your post Brian.

You should be able to find clear plastic sheets at almost any model shop that sells plastic sheets as well as some Hobby Lobby stores. Plastruct and Evergreen are two big suppliers of clear plastic in a few thicknesses. 

[carrucha]

I usually mask the clear parts with clear Scotch tape and cut really slowly with a razor saw.

[Fat Brian]

6 hours ago, peteski said:

There is no information about the source of the plastic sheets in your post Brian.

They're in the makeup palette, the plastic sheet covers over the little powder pots and separates them from the inside of the lid or mirror.

[chepp]

The sheet plastic tip by StephenGuthmiller above looks like a good idea to me.

Here is how I cut a kit window.

In addition to applying masking tape as suggested by others, I support the "glass" underneath with a wadded-up rag then tape everything to a piece of corrugated cardboard. That gives me one solid unit to handle without stressing the part. Use a fine-toothed razor saw. Work slowly and make light cuts with the saw.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited August 29, 2023 by chepp

[Bainford]

1 hour ago, chepp said:

Use a fine-toothed razor saw. Work slowly and make light cuts with the saw.

Further to that, I recommend using a pull-saw (cuts on the pull-stroke rather than the push-stroke) to reduce the chance of slips marring the glass.

[thegeneralbushdiy]

Certainly, using acetate for crafting the vent windows of your convertible kit body sounds like a great idea to achieve a more realistic look. Acetate is often preferred for such applications due to its flexibility and ease of shaping. In comparison to clear styrene, acetate tends to be less brittle and can be cut and shaped with relative ease, making it a suitable material for creating intricate details like vent windows. When working with acetate, it's a good practice to use sharp, fine-toothed tools for cutting and shaping to ensure clean edges. Additionally, using a heat source like a hairdryer can help gently soften the acetate, making it more pliable for bending and forming. Remember to take your time and practice on scrap pieces if needed to get comfortable with working with acetate before making the final vent windows for your convertible kit body.

[peteski]

3 hours ago, thegeneralbushdiy said:

Certainly, using acetate for crafting the vent windows of your convertible kit body sounds like a great idea to achieve a more realistic look. Acetate is often preferred for such applications due to its flexibility and ease of shaping.

Do you actually have a source of real acetate?

Not picking on you specifically, "Acetate" is a old name for clear plastic sheets, colloquially used for decades by modelers. I doubt that any of the clear sheets available to modelers today are actual acetate.  They can be Plexiglas/acrylic, Lexan, PVC, PETG, Polyester or similar materials (and of course the clear polystyrene you mentioned).  Those materials all have slightly different properties.  Pigeon-holing them under the name "acetate" IMO does a disservice to modelers.  Sorry, but I had to mention this.

Edited August 30, 2023 by peteski

[StevenGuthmiller]

4 hours ago, peteski said:

Do you actually have a source of real acetate?

Not picking on you specifically, "Acetate" is a old name for clear plastic sheets, colloquially used for decades by modelers. I doubt that any of the clear sheets available to modelers today are actual acetate.  They can be Plexiglas/acrylic, Lexan, PVC, PETG, Polyester or similar materials (and of course the clear polystyrene you mentioned).  Those materials all have slightly different properties.  Pigeon-holing them under the name "acetate" IMO does a disservice to modelers.  Sorry, but I had to mention this.

I have no idea what the stuff that I use is actually chemically made of, but it's called ".007 Clear Lay Film".

Just to clarify.

 

 

 

Steve