Roy L Frost III Posted September 30, 2023 Share Posted September 30, 2023 ya know the build was going so well, then I had to paint or marker around the frames of my 1/20 scale Porsche 935 and everything went south, so give me some help. How do you do this job, which could mean a great model or you mean i did all this work for nothing result Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fiatboy Posted September 30, 2023 Share Posted September 30, 2023 Hi. Bare-Metal has a product called "Black Chrome". I have never used it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nacho Z Posted September 30, 2023 Share Posted September 30, 2023 In my humble opinion, Roy, the only way to get a nice crisp and clean line on your window rubber trim is to mask it and paint it. Best way to paint it is to either airbrush it, spray paint it, or brush paint it, in that descending order of quality finish. (Good Lord that was a mangled up sentence, I hope it made sense). Whichever method you use you have to make sure you use a quality masking tape, I highly recommend Tamiya tape. You must burnish the edge down. Lastly, you need to mist the paint on, don’t hose it on. Putting it on too heavy and wet will increase your chances of having the edge of the tape lift and paint to bleed/creep under it. Fiatboy posted about the black BMF. There was a thread about this just a few weeks ago. Myself and others have used the black BMF and I don’t believe anyone liked it or would recommend it. There is also the option to use a black Sharpie but I personally think the color/sheen is just plain wrong. Hope this is of help to you. If you would like, do a quick search of my WIP of my Ferrari F355. I have several pictures of my masking. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chariots of Fire Posted September 30, 2023 Share Posted September 30, 2023 The black foil is absolutely no good. Has absolutely no elasticity like regular BMF. The aircraft guys sometimes use a paper glue like stuff that they paint on glass to paint canopy frames. You might look into that or make a mask of masking tape to cover the windshield. Look into a translucent type paint also for the tinting. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Brown Posted September 30, 2023 Share Posted September 30, 2023 I mask with a combination of Tamiya and Washi tape and then paint the trim and window frames with Tamiya X-18 Semi gloss black. That way, if I do accidentally get any paint creep under the mask, I can easily remove it with some Windex, a small paint brush, and a toothpick without damaging the underlying lacquer paint or clear plastic. Ben 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NOBLNG Posted October 1, 2023 Share Posted October 1, 2023 (edited) Is it a metal trim or a rubber molding? Metal trim should be a satin or sg black. For rubber, I have carefully brushed on Tamiya XF-85 rubber black with no masking. Masking and airbrushing would give a better look I’m sure. Tamiya also makes an LP-65 rubber black Lacquer that I haven’t used. Edited October 1, 2023 by NOBLNG 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fat Brian Posted October 1, 2023 Share Posted October 1, 2023 For painting on the body I use water based Tamiya paint so I can clean it quickly with a damp q-tip. For painting on the clear parts I mask the straightest sections one or two at a time and use Mr Color flat black. It cleans up with alcohol so it won't hurt the clear parts. Once I've masked as much as I reasonably can I free hand the rest. The trim on this car was an absolute nightmare buy it turned out better than I expected. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaymcminn Posted October 1, 2023 Share Posted October 1, 2023 John (Nacho Z) is 100% correct here. Black trim is tough to pull off properly, but masking and airbrushing is your absolute best bet for getting a good finish on it. I've been lazy and sprayed Tamiya TS29 as well, but it will creep under tape if there's the slightest gap or lifted area. I honestly haven't brush-painted black trim (other than tiny details like lock cylinders,etc.) in years. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roy L Frost III Posted October 1, 2023 Author Share Posted October 1, 2023 thanks for all your replies, I am sure i have done everything most of the time it's just fine. Imean if I couldn't pull it off most of the time I would not build sport cars, just looking for other ideas. The black bmf is garbage. I have used carbon fiber decals on some but that is time consuming and hard to pull off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dpate Posted October 1, 2023 Share Posted October 1, 2023 (edited) 3 hours ago, Roy L Frost III said: thanks for all your replies, I am sure i have done everything most of the time it's just fine. Imean if I couldn't pull it off most of the time I would not build sport cars, just looking for other ideas. The black bmf is garbage. I have used carbon fiber decals on some but that is time consuming and hard to pull off Your best best for a clean finish is masking, and using Tamiya LP-65 or LP-5. That’ll get you cleanest look and finish. Sharpies etc will work, but doesn’t look good imo. Even did the rear window the same mask, and airbrush. Edited October 1, 2023 by Dpate 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roy L Frost III Posted October 1, 2023 Author Share Posted October 1, 2023 looks real good, it's a different thing painting the inside glass frame and the masks are great. Do you really mask the outside frame like on the drivers side , as on your model in the photo then spray or brush. The inside glass I got it's the outside frame that troubles me. I have been building for a long time and like most of us have won contests but I am also my biggest critic as I'am sure we all are thanks for your help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dpate Posted October 1, 2023 Share Posted October 1, 2023 (edited) 31 minutes ago, Roy L Frost III said: looks real good, it's a different thing painting the inside glass frame and the masks are great. Do you really mask the outside frame like on the drivers side , as on your model in the photo then spray or brush. The inside glass I got it's the outside frame that troubles me. I have been building for a long time and like most of us have won contests but I am also my biggest critic as I'am sure we all are thanks for your help Yeah it’s not difficult to mask especially if the panel line is good. There’s good videos on YouTube showing how it’s done. It’s no different than laying BMF imo. You’re just masking, and cutting along the panel line around the door. The rear on the Toyota Supra was a tad harder as the panel line around the window wasn’t the best, but I managed to do it. I also use an airbrush to do it not a paintbrush. The key is building up the coats, and not wet coats same as using an automotive paint . Edited October 1, 2023 by Dpate 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bugatti Fan Posted October 7, 2023 Share Posted October 7, 2023 (edited) A method that has served me well for this job is by using a mapping pen to follow the outline. It is basically an old fashioned dipping pen with a very fine nib. Using thinned paint I can follow the outline quite easily as the nib is rigid. An alternative might be a fine nib calligraphy pen. Then it is only a matter of fill painting the rest of the surround after the lining in has been done. If the moulding of the windscreen surround edge looks a bit indistinct you may need to run a sharp point around it beforehand. Best done to the kit straight out of the box before any priming or painting is done. Revell's Aqua Colour Anthracite appears to be a good match for windscreen surround rubber to my eyes. Edited October 7, 2023 by Bugatti Fan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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