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School bus yellow


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I would counter that Scale Finishes lacquer is pretty ‘hot’ (possibly more so, in my experience, than Rusto and Duplicolor) too…

I picked up a craft paint from Michael’s named ‘School Bus Yellow’ and found it to be a good match to the Pantone color I matched from an ACTUAL school bus:

https://www.michaels.com/product/folkart-acrylic-paint-10616011?cm_mmc=PLASearch-_-google-_-MICH_Shopping_US_N_Craft+%26+Hobbies_N_PMAX_BOPIS_N-_-&Kenshoo_ida=&kpid=go_cmp-18514199759_adg-_ad-__dev-m_ext-_prd-10616011&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAADkMxxf2kTZ856NmvkfVU2sjFmyC2&gclid=Cj0KCQiAkeSsBhDUARIsAK3tiedgQYPAwxcG0lJU1XpXwFOTlimtn-gbMfc6vlHnM_zh4Qxaq7wmth4aAj1mEALw_wcB

You WILL need to thin it and airbrush it though - I used Createx thinner, and then clear coated it as I would normally (my favorite mild rattle-can lacquer, in my case).

Definitely a not-hot solution that has basically zero risk on styrene…

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Id use craft paint in a heart beat but then Im used to it, having worked with it airbrushing for years. One note, you need primer. Second note you, need a couple of light initial coats and flash them off fully before getting to the heavier coats. Createx thinner is a good choice, though I make my own knock off of it that works just as well. And the third point: you need to clear coat this stuff. Both for gloss and to seal it.

On the other hand Chrome Yellow is very close and a one shot deal in a spray can. I imagine the Tamiya is fine, my experience was with Model Master enamel, no longer made. With MM, spray it you were done.

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4 hours ago, TarheelRick said:

Not sure if you want to gloss coat it, most school buses are a bit semi-gloss.  What are you building for this color paint?

An early 60's service station truck - I seem to remember that some were this color.

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12 hours ago, Karl LaFong said:

An early 60's service station truck - I seem to remember that some were this color.

The Chrome Yellow will be fine for a service truck, especially the two toned ones.

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On 1/7/2024 at 8:15 AM, Dave G. said:

One note, you need primer.

Not just any primer: WHITE PRIMER.  Unless of course the bare plastic is already white with no body work done to it.  Yellows, oranges and pinks (or any light color) are notoriously translucent, and white base coat will make the color "pop", while gray primer will make it look dull.

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11 hours ago, peteski said:

Not just any primer: WHITE PRIMER.  Unless of course the bare plastic is already white with no body work done to it.  Yellows, oranges and pinks (or any light color) are notoriously translucent, and white base coat will make the color "pop", while gray primer will make it look dull.

Thanks, ya I should have included that info. Yellow can be fussy with what color is under it, in whatever iteration.Be that acrylic ( water borne), lacquer or enamel.

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I know you said that you wanted to shy away from Rust-oleum but in my experience, I have not had any real "problems" using Rust-oleum 2X spray paint decanted and going through an airbrush.  The color that I used on my C10 was "Golden Sunset" and I at least, think it has a strong resemblance to School Bus yellow. Minor disclaimer that the kit I used was molded in red plastic but seeing as how I shellacked it, it shouldn't have made a difference. Follow at your own risk dash2.thumb.jpg.69f6849f65d3a64d5dd44d1be612e4a7.jpg

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 Rustoleum 2x decanted, thinned slightly more with lacquer thinner and airbrushed, comes out as nice as any hobby enamel I've ever shot. They may also have a safety yellow that may be good. But this assumes the OP wants to go the extra steps. If anyone is not willing to take any extra steps with any Rustoleum paint, then just stay away from the stuff is my suggestion.

I've shot this stuff over Stynylrez primer which is a poly acrylic primer and sealer.

What I'm not a fan of is trying to paint a model with Rustoleum 2x from the can. If you do that, heat the can in very hot tap water and shake liberally, repeat until the can remains warm to the touch. Now try spraying it. Rustoleum 2x settles, you gotta get the solids and resins all mixed in or the stem to the nozzle will hopelessly clog. There is nothing inherently wrong with 2x as an enamel paint as long as you use a primer sealer on the model. Of the two methods I mentioned, I much prefer the first. It's a thinner method,you can build on your coats and there is less waste with improved flow out.

That said, I'm slowly turning over to Tamiya LP lacquers.

Edited by Dave G.
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