Erock Posted January 20 Share Posted January 20 Great fitment there Round 2. This BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH is inexcusable. Gonna have to just glue the hood shut Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted January 20 Share Posted January 20 (edited) That's...impressive. Edited January 20 by Ace-Garageguy 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevenGuthmiller Posted January 20 Share Posted January 20 (edited) That's why a person should have all of this stuff worked out and pre-fitted before ever touching a can of paint or a tube of glue. Yeah, I know, everybody would like it if every kit fell together, but they don't, so.........yeah. By the way, that looks like an assembly issue to me. Check your hinge set up. Some times the instructions are unclear, or completely incorrect. I don't see any reason whatsoever that your problem can't be corrected with a little thought. Steve Edited January 20 by StevenGuthmiller 5 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Force Posted January 20 Share Posted January 20 1 hour ago, Erock said: Great fitment there Round 2. This BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH is inexcusable. Gonna have to just glue the hood shut Don't blame Round 2 because they didn't do it, this is an old MPC kit originally issued back in the 70's long before Round 2 owned the brand. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevenGuthmiller Posted January 20 Share Posted January 20 3 minutes ago, Force said: Don't blame Round 2 because they didn't do it, this is an old MPC kit originally issued back in the 70's long before Round 2 owned the brand. Regardless, I'm sure that there's a simple explanation and a relatively easy fix for the situation. It's a simple hinge set up. It's not brain surgery, and I'm sure this problem wasn't built into the kit in the 70s. Tape the hood into the position that it needs to be in while closed, flip the model over, and see what needs to be done with the hinges. Worst case scenario, you have to modify or make some new hinge pieces. My personal opinion without seeing what's going on underneath?.........The hinges are installed incorrectly. Steve 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blunc Posted January 20 Share Posted January 20 IMHO... It's highly likely that the person that designed the flip-nose hinge for this kit tested it before it got turned into a manufacturing mold, the view of the instructions as posted may not have been clear enough as to how the hinge pieces are supposed to look when attached to the flip nose. I think the take away will be... if something can be attached in more than one way, there will be times where it WILL be attached in a manner not intended by the designer. I implore anyone who may be having build issues to utilize the vast knowledge extant in this forum by asking for advice and/or solutions as so many have done before, most members here will step up and help out. And now for the fine print: (this is a rather long winded way to say that the builder in this post screwed up in more than one way, first being not test fitting the hinge and figuring out how it's supposed to work, lastly...blaming someone else for his mistake, which is not fair to several persons who design and test for a living and who are most likely model builders themselves) 5 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Can-Con Posted January 20 Share Posted January 20 I'd like to see a pic of the inside of the hood where the hinge attaches to it. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gman Posted January 20 Share Posted January 20 https://www.scalemates.com/kits/mpc-1-0746-scavenger--1014935 I built a previous version of that kit back when it was a new release- at least in my kit, the hood sat right when flipped up, but all of the MPC flip front kits from the era ('57 chevy, '57 Corvette, Datsun and Ford pickups) had fiddly hinges that had to be installed right for the hood to sit properly...I built them all. IIRC, the Datsun, Chevy and Ford all had the same generic frame assembly. The hinges had oversized holes that locate to pins on the front of the frame and had a fair margin of error, but if installed correctly the hood would sit properly at the cowl. If there is flash on your hinges, you could use that to your advantage for a more precise fit. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevenGuthmiller Posted January 20 Share Posted January 20 (edited) I see as well that the OP added engine wiring. I would also like to see how any changes done in the engine compartment may interfere with the hood fitment. But in the end, this is a textbook example of why you should ALWAYS, no matter how well, or how poorly you feel that the kit is engineered, test fit and mock-up throughout the entire project. You should never have any surprises such as this unless you allow them to happen. Apparently it's quite possible to get this right. Steve Edited January 20 by StevenGuthmiller 1 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
customline Posted January 21 Share Posted January 21 Settled science. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Force Posted January 21 Share Posted January 21 I built a different version of this Datsun pickup back in the 80's and I managed to get the flip hood to open and close properly. With that I don't mean the old MPC kits are well engineered, they can for sure be challenging, but most are buildable. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CabDriver Posted January 21 Share Posted January 21 Some useful info here, from FSM: https://finescale.com/product-info/kit-reviews/2023/07/workbench-review-mpc-125-scale-1975-datsun-lil-hustler-pickup-plastic-model-kit “I chose to glue the tailgate in place in the up position, but it can be made posable. You can also pose the tilt nose, but the instructions don’t point to a precise location for the hinges, and the parts do not have positive locators. You’ll need to test-fit to ensure you get the right fit for the nose when it’s closed.” 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrenchr Posted January 21 Share Posted January 21 I'm building this kit right now. Will see how it goes. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chryslerjunkandstuff Posted January 21 Share Posted January 21 15 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said: That's why a person should have all of this stuff worked out and pre-fitted before ever touching a can of paint or a tube of glue. Yeah, I know, everybody would like it if every kit fell together, but they don't, so.........yeah. By the way, that looks like an assembly issue to me. Check your hinge set up. Some times the instructions are unclear, or completely incorrect. I don't see any reason whatsoever that your problem can't be corrected with a little thought. Steve Every single word that THIS dude said! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintage AMT Posted January 21 Share Posted January 21 Its underglass with the hood/fenders glued shut.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sledsel Posted January 25 Share Posted January 25 As others have said, pre-fit and mock ups through out the build before paint is ever applied. I went thru this with the flipnose 53 Ford truck. Ya learn this bigtime if you ever kitbash. Overall it looks good other than the hood issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevenGuthmiller Posted January 26 Share Posted January 26 6 hours ago, Sledsel said: As others have said, pre-fit and mock ups through out the build before paint is ever applied. I went thru this with the flipnose 53 Ford truck. Ya learn this bigtime if you ever kitbash. Overall it looks good other than the hood issue. True. You learn a lot of disciplines through kit bashing. Steve 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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