Best puddy?

[slusher]

My tube of Squadron putty dried up". I only used it in small areas  other then Tamiya what’s the best?

[Straightliner59]

I use super glue and micro balloons, mostly, especially on smaller areas. I also like Milliput, for larger areas, because it can be shaped with a dampened finger. Some guys like super glue with baking soda, but, I think it's too hard, and doesn't sand away as fast as the plastic.

[yh70]

I been using this for many years.Bondo Glazing Spot Putty dries fast & easy to sand..i get it at Walmart but most auto or home centers should carry it. or you can order on line from Amazon.

[Straightliner59]

I should have mentioned two-part glazing putty. I forgot it, because I don't do enough custom bodywork to have to use it, very often.

[bobss396]

I use the Bondo brand and it lasts a long time. I used to get the yellow tubes of Nitrostan, but had a big tube dry up on me. The caps are lousy.

[Jon Haigwood]

Sprue Glue . Sprue melted into Tamiya Extra Thin, I also have used Evergreen plastic. 

[daveb7153]

I've been using Deluxe Materials Perfect Plastic Putty for a while and really like it. You can use a damp Q-tip to smooth it out. Dries really quick.

[Monty]

[Classicgas]

[Horrorshow]

On 2/16/2024 at 5:07 PM, Monty said:

Ya that’s right 

[customline]

I firmly endorse Bondo Professional spot putty, the one you mix with hardener.   you can get a lot done with it because you can sand it in 15 minutes or, in most cases, less. Sand plastic with 320 before application for a good bond. Shape it with the same. 

On 2/16/2024 at 8:42 AM, daveb7153 said:

I've been using Deluxe Materials Perfect Plastic Putty for a while and really like it. You can use a damp Q-tip to smooth it out. Dries really quick.

I am happy to see this, Dave, I just got a tube of this stuff but have not used it yet.

[Mark]

For anything beyond minor surface imperfections, two-part filler is more desirable unless you want to wait forever for multiple layers to dry.  Even then, the one-part spot putties are essentially thickened lacquer primer.  Applying lacquer primer over it has the potential to "wake up" the already applied putty.

[daveb7153]

22 hours ago, customline said:

I firmly endorse Bondo Professional spot putty, the one you mix with hardener.   you can get a lot done with it because you can sand it in 15 minutes or, in most cases, less. Sand plastic with 320 before application for a good bond. Shape it with the same. 

I am happy to see this, Dave, I just got a tube of this stuff but have not used it yet.

Hope you like it. I'm a big fan of simplicity, and it's simple to use.

[Mark]

Only thing with the two-part stuff is, the small tube of catalyst (hardener) will either separate or harden on its own after a while.  But additional tubes of that can be bought separately at places like Home Depot or Lowe's.  It's available in red or blue.  Some prefer the blue, saying the pigment in the red catalyst can penetrate primers and finish coats like red plastic.  I've tried both, never had trouble with the red.

Keeping the bigger tube good to go for a long time is easy...as you use the putty, flatten out the tube at the far end and keep what is left concentrated together towards the cap end.

Edited February 21 by Mark
Spell check

[slusher]

On 2/21/2024 at 5:57 PM, Mark said:

Only thing with the two-part stuff is, the small tube of catalyst (hardener) will either separate or harden on its own after a while.  But additional tubes of that can be bought separately at places like Home Depot or Lowe's.  It's available in red or blue.  Some prefer the blue, saying the pigment in the red catalyst can penetrate primers and finish coats like red plastic.  I've tried both, never had trouble with the red.

Keeping the bigger tube good to go for a long time is easy...as you use the putty, flatten out the tube at the far end and keep what is left concentrated together towards the cap end.

Could I just use the glazing compound so I don’t have to deal with a hardener?

[Straightliner59]

45 minutes ago, slusher said:

Could I just use the glazing compound so I don’t have to deal with a hardener?

The best thing about using a two-part catalyzed putty, is that there's virtually no shrinkage. That's preferable, especially in larger areas, like custom bodywork. For general filling of sink marks, etc., most standard fillers will work just fine!

[bobss396]

6 hours ago, Straightliner59 said:

The best thing about using a two-part catalyzed putty, is that there's virtually no shrinkage. That's preferable, especially in larger areas, like custom bodywork. For general filling of sink marks, etc., most standard fillers will work just fine!

I use as little filler as possible. A trip into the dehydrator dries it fast, no shrinkage after that. I give it like 20 minutes and then I sand it. I just did a hood on a stock car build that needed a little help.

[slusher]

8 hours ago, Straightliner59 said:

The best thing about using a two-part catalyzed putty, is that there's virtually no shrinkage. That's preferable, especially in larger areas, like custom bodywork. For general filling of sink marks, etc., most standard fillers will work just fine!

I  never use much my squadron paddy dried up, that’s how much I use it..

[FoMoCo66]

Quick tip.

I don't know if you guys know this but if you put super glue In an area (liquid stuff not the jell) then put baking soda on it then it dries instantly. You can use it as a filler or to just glue stuff together. Mind you it's extremely strong so your not getting it off.

[peteski]

I would highly discourage anybody from using bakign soda ad CA accelerator.  I have seen too many issues (like it oozing out of the joint in some humid climates).  Not worth it on your precious model.  If using CA glue, use accelerators specifically made for setting CA glue. There are multiple brands on the market.  If you need to use a filler with CA glue, use plastic shavings, talcum powder, microbaloons, or some similar inert powder.

I prefer BSI brand of CA glue and accelerator.

 

[FoMoCo66]

10 minutes ago, peteski said:

I would highly discourage anybody from using bakign soda ad CA accelerator.  I have seen too many issues (like it oozing out of the joint in some humid climates).  Not worth it on your precious model.  If using CA glue, use accelerators specifically made for setting CA glue. There are multiple brands on the market.  If you need to use a filler with CA glue, use plastic shavings, talcum powder, microbaloons, or some similar inert powder.

I prefer BSI brand of CA glue and accelerator.

 

Well I haven't had any problems with it. I've used it in other stuff like around the house repairs. I guess I haven't used it enough to have problems.

[peteski]

That's good.  For me it is "why tempt faith?" After I spend 3 months building a model I don't want the glue joints start oozing after few years. Accelerators are not very expensive and a bottle last for a very long time.

[Ferbz]

I do alot of custom body work and have used DAP brand Plastic Wood for relatively large areas and/or thicker shaping and molding. I've used it for MANY years without incidence. It does not shrink or swell under the most active types of paint(like automotive lacquer)with proper primering and final paint prepping. I use small amounts of acetone to thin it as needed. One caveat is that it often requires a spot glazing putty pass as part of primer/paint prep to fill any pinholes and/or fine sanding scratches, which you would often need to do anyway when doing any type of custom bodywork. For this I use the tube 3M Acryl-Green spot putty. Neither of these require figuring out how much hardener to use or long hardening/drying times, which I find super convenient. I also use CA glue/baking powder for filling small  imperfections, cut lines, holes, etc. If you try Plastic Wood for yourself, do not buy the tube as it tends to dry out before you end up using the majority of it. Instead, buy the small 4oz. can for $10 or less. Available at most big hardware stores (like Home Depot, Lowe's, etc).

Edited February 28 by Ferbz

[Ferbz]

2 hours ago, Ferbz said:

I do alot of custom body work and have used DAP brand Plastic Wood for relatively large areas and/or thicker shaping and molding. I've used it for MANY years without incidence. It does not shrink or swell under the most active types of paint(like automotive lacquer)with proper primering and final paint prepping. I use small amounts of acetone to thin it as needed. One caveat is that it often requires a spot glazing putty pass as part of primer/paint prep to fill any pinholes and/or fine sanding scratches, which you would often need to do anyway when doing any type of custom bodywork. For this I use the tube 3M Acryl-Green spot putty. Neither of these require figuring out how much hardener to use or long hardening/drying times, which I find super convenient. I also use CA glue/baking powder for filling small  imperfections, cut lines, holes, etc. If you try Plastic Wood for yourself, do not buy the tube as it tends to dry out before you end up using the majority of it. Instead, buy the small 4oz. can for $10 or less. Available at most big hardware stores (like Home Depot, Lowe's, etc).

Is it ok that I show how I use these here? This 50 ford pickup custom had quite a few body mods where I first used Plastic Wood to fill things like fender lines and other low areas, or locations that need shaping. I sanded the Plastic Wood to shape then an initial coat of light primer revealed pinholes and sand scratches which were then filled with 3M spot putty. Another coat of primer and sanding shows any areas needing further putty/primer fine tuning so that final primer and wet sanding can begin. After final primer and wet sanding the final paintjob covers it all up. This may seem a bit painstaking and rigorous but after years of trial and error, this is how I use Plastic Wood and 3M spot putty to get the custom body work as straight as I can for the paintwork without it ever ghosting thru or cracking, etc. Hope this helps!