Trumpeter Ford GT40 with my twists

[kensar]

Thanks to Force for posting the pictures and diagrams.  This has enabled me to make some corrections to the model which is so wrong.

When screws are involved that need to be threaded into plastic, I cut a slot into the threads to make it easier to cut the threads without over stressing the plastic.  I use a Dremel tool with a cutting disc.

While waiting for paint to dry, I have started prepping the chassis.  I added some bolt heads and cut down some mounting posts that were needlessly tall.

Next, I spent time working on a water pump that was omitted from the kit.  The reference pics posted by Force and Vamach1 were invaluable.

I didn't have any styrene sheet that was thick enough, so I laminated up some sheets.  Then sketched out the water pump, eyeballing the size and shape.

Then cut out and shaped the pump and turned out a couple of the pulleys.  Didn't detail them because they will never be seen.

Test fit.

So this is where I'm at with the engine.  Still working on the water pump and planning other fittings for the plumbing.  Next will be a bracket and alternator.

Again, the reference pics have been invaluable.

I put on some washes and filters to give a more realistic appearance, so my recent military model building (aircraft) experience didn't go to waste.

Thanks for all the comments and following along.  I hope soon I will be posting real time for timely replies.

[FoMoCo66]

Wow, for a second there. I thought I was actually looking at a real GT. 40 engine, not joking. I love the detail you're putting into this. Great job!

[MarkJ]

Ken, this should be an excellent adventure. If it's a long ride, I don't care. I Love to watch a highly skilled model builder at work. Great ref pictures. It's weird seeing basically a Nascar engine sitting in the engine bay of a prototype sports racing car of the highest level for the time it was competing. A simple push rod engine competing against Europe's finest racing engines and cars of that time. Hard to believe but true.

[kensar]

On 4/5/2024 at 1:30 PM, MarkJ said:

A simple push rod engine competing against Europe's finest racing engines and cars of that time. Hard to believe but true.

It may be simple, but its got displacement!

Update on the progress.  I found the kit's braided lines, made of a textile, not metal, actually work very well with their fittings.  The downside is that it comes in white.  I colored it with a metallic silver Sharpie marker, but it turned out gray.  The distributor and plug wires worked out okay.

I re-worked the entire front end of the engine, making a water pump, pulleys, and alternator.  I think it came out well, much better and more accurate than the kit offering.

Next is the exhaust system.

I'll need another can of this!

Thanks for looking in on this project.

[absmiami]

There is an after-market outfit - AK something-or-other - that sells silver cloth fuel braid line - thats an option - the stuff is pretty  good …

[Pierre Rivard]

Engine looks mighty good Ken. I love your upgrades on the front end and the mix of colors and textures. It adds a lot of realism to it.

I agree with you, perhaps a push rod against Ferrari's twin cams, but also 7 vs. 4 liters.

[absmiami]

On 4/6/2024 at 3:08 PM, absmiami said:

NOPE - wrong again - the stuff that im thinknig of is sold by ANYZ.io.   -   There is an after-market outfit - AK something-or-other - that sells silver cloth fuel braid line - thats an option - the stuff is pretty  good …

 

[vamach1]

2 hours ago, absmiami said:

 

Thanks for the tip.  I bought some Old stock detail master braided lines in various sizes.  It is hard to cut, the frayed pieces will give you splinters and it is not hollow so the kit fittings do not fit inside.

[Bugatti Fan]

I like the way all the detail painting in various metallic and other colours really bring the engine to life besides the added details.

It might be worth a mention about scale braided fuel lines. They look to me like electronic screened cable that has had the outer insulation stripped off it.

Edited April 8 by Bugatti Fan

[vamach1]

1 hour ago, Bugatti Fan said:

I like the way all the detail painting in various metallic and other colours really bring the engine to life besides the added details.

It might be worth a mention about scale braided fuel lines. They look to me like electronic screened cable that has had the outer insulation stripped off it.

Found the s website per Andy’s comment.  I think I’ll have to order those once I determine the best size.

https://anyz.io/shop/product/AN015

Edited April 8 by vamach1

[absmiami]

V - remind me to bring a package to Delray show …

[vamach1]

31 minutes ago, absmiami said:

V - remind me to bring a package to Delray show …

Will do.  Thanks. Can I use them on my 351.  😉

[Chinacar]

Lookin' good. now I want to disassemble mine and correct it!

[kensar]

Added a few more details and charmed the snakes.

I detailed the exhaust by adding some stretched sprue to depict weld lines.  They came out a little overdone to my liking but they are not too noticeable since they are mostly black anyway.  Did touch them off with a little gold accent.

I corrected the transaxle plumbing based on what references I could find.  I think it is correct now.

 

[Brudda]

On 4/2/2024 at 12:58 AM, Bugatti Fan said:

As I understand it, CMA will be offering the GT 40 as a kit too, but will most likely also be prohibitively expensive.

I mentioned being surprised that MFH have not done it in 1/12th scale. But actually, I think that Tamiya would do well with this subject if they tackled it.

Going bigger Agora or maybe the new Pocher (under Hornby) might come up with one in 1/8th scale. Who knows?

Wishful thinking perhaps!

DeAgostini has the gulf car. Not a bad build. In 1/8 it needs a little detail but if you do a little detail it looks pretty good. I was happy the way it came out. Not the big block car. This car was after the fia banned the big block cars at lemans. The corrections on the trumpeter kit will be a great build. 

[Bugatti Fan]

Was not aware of that DeAgostini kit Bruch. Thanks for putting up the pictures.

Ken's Trumpeter GT40 is really benefiting from the extra work being put in and I will be continuing to follow this build.

[MarkJ]

Sorry, Ken. It appears that you have been hijacked. Doesn't matter. I know your build will be superior in every way, just looking at your engine photos is proof of that. Still can't wait to see YOUR final photos.

Edited April 12 by MarkJ

[kensar]

I don't mind the discussion.  I usually learn something I didn't know and at least others are watching.

The wheels will not rotate (at least there will be a flat spot on them) and I didn't know what position the drive shafts would be in, so I made them functional.  I really didn't like the looks of the kit version of them anyway.  Some 1/16" aluminum tubing and 0.032" wire did the trick.

The fit of the axle through the hub carrier was very sloppy.  It looks like there is a piece that fits around the axle that is missing, but it is not in the kit or mentioned in the instructions, so more re-engineering with a sleeve to take up the slack.

Till next time...

[4knflyin]

On 3/29/2024 at 12:19 PM, kensar said:

Starting my first build thread on this forum - the trainwreck called the Trumpeter Ford GT40.  There are many inaccuracies with this kit if one wants to build the 1966 LeMans winner and I have read that it does not represent any particular GT40.  I don't know how accurate that statement is, but in any case I like to do my own thing from time to time, so I will build this up as I would like it.  Visually, it will resemble a MkIIb, but there will be differences under the skin.

I have place 57 bolt heads so far and more are sure to come.  I'm liking that price on those Meng bolts!

The kit left out some necessary components, like the distributor, starter motor, and crankcase breather, so I will be adding these.  Must have slipped their mind.

The beginnings of a distributor and the breather I knocked out on the lathe.

You're welcome to come along for this ride, but it won't be a short one.

Seems I found this at an opportune time for me. Definitely following.

A couple questions. I just threw away a couple bills on a Dremel w/ drill press. After using it a couple times, it occured to me what I may really want is a lathe. Do you have a thread on yours? (Edit: I finally saw a post with yours. I was thinking table-top lathe with hand tools. Still, if you have some relevant pointers or links, I would greatly appreciate it.) Or would you point me in the right direction. Welding and metal lathing have, literally, fascinated me since I was a little, tiny kid and I think I need one.

The other qu. is about the Meng bolts. Almost pulled the trigger a month or so ago but I was thrown by the way they mix the sizes and, especially, the means by which one has to separate them from their substrate. I'm guessing doing whatever you are to separate them is not bothering you, yes? And, no, you can't beat that price... if you want to paint nuts, bolt heads, etc.

Thanks. I'll try to keep the interruptions to a minimum.

This is great so far. Thanks for posting.

Edited April 13 by 4knflyin

[4knflyin]

On 4/2/2024 at 3:21 PM, Force said:

Here is the oil system.

These are great references. I sure hope you glom onto my first start to finish build 😘

[4knflyin]

On 4/8/2024 at 11:34 AM, absmiami said:

 

 

On 4/8/2024 at 3:41 PM, vamach1 said:

Found the s website per Andy’s comment.  I think I’ll have to order those once I determine the best size.

https://anyz.io/shop/product/AN015

 

This is turning out to be a uniquely interesting thead. All the additional pics, diagrams, sources for parts. Mixed with your descriptions when you provide them, this has the markings of entertainment and info gathering for many months to come. Thanks!

ANZY looks like an interesting source. I'm going to have to check them our. As for the old Detail Master, I thought the core was removeable... good to know I'm wrong if I ever come across some.

I've been using Top Studio and DecalCas braided lines (I have some Tamiya, but I don't like the way they look). I'm not sure about the colors, but the lines are realistic looking. 

People rave about ProTech braided lines for American motors. Actually, just in general. I haven't bought any from them because they aren't scale to metric, which makes them an odd fit for the AN fittings I use, but I am going to give them a try. When referenced, it's usually with a comment like, "Wow, I'm never using another brand again." So on and so forth. They can't all be blowing smoke.

The link is https://protechmodelparts.com/.

Keep it coming. And thanks.

Edited April 13 by 4knflyin

[kensar]

I'm happy to answer any questions about my modeling stuff.

When I first got back into the hobby in the 1990s, I got a bunch of kits, more than I would ever build.  When I realized this, I had a change in focus.  I started investing in tooling and my own skills.  That way I could build anything I wanted and not depend on model companies.  These days, you should consider getting into the 3D printing stuff.  I think that is where the hobby will be going in the future.

I didn't know anything about machine tools, so I started with a website named mini-lathe.com.  They have articles about how to set up the Chinese table top lathe.  These lathes are made to a single design by many Chinese companies and sold under many different retailer's names.  I bought mine from Harbor Freight.  The minilathe website tells you how to set it up and tune it up to get 0.001" accuracy, which is plenty good for modeling stuff.  They also reference LittleMachineShop store for parts and metal.  You will also spend about the same amount of money buying tooling as you do for the lathe itself.  Based on the information from the website, I set up my lathe and just started working with it.  Simple stuff at first.  

If you have a lathe, you will want a mill, too.  Mini-lathe.com has some references to a mini-mill website too.  LittleMachineShop has a lot of resources for both.  I got a micromill from Harbor Freight, although I wish I had gotten a minimill, which is larger than the micromill.

This is the lathe I have.

I can show more about my workshop if there is interest.

As for the Meng bolts, removing them from the backing doesn't give me any heartburn.  I have re-shaped a hobby knife blade to use for the small bolts (I make a lot of my own tools for special purposes).  Just cover the bolt with your finger when cutting it off or it will go pinging off into space.

I remove the larger bolts using a razor saw.  The blade broke, so I modified it so the blade extends far out from the holder.  This is a very handy modification.

Over the years I acquired a few machine tools for this hobby stuff, which opened up a whole new aspect of model building for me.

 

[Randy D]

Hi Ken,

  Great thread on this build!   Your front end improvements on that motor along with the added details really go along ways to bring it up to a high standard.

And yes, we always like to peek at people's shops!!!

 

Randy

[kensar]

A short update here - the coolant and oil plumbing bits and , first paint on the chassis pan.

These coolant lines will run to the tunnel going through the cockpit.  PE hose clamps and heat shrink tubing.  There are take-offs for the lines running to the water reservoir tank.

These are fittings and lines for the oil circuits - to and from filter and oil cooler and the large ones to and from the oil tank in the front.

The chassis pan was primed in gray first, then painted in dark aluminum and then blue.

The side pods remain in primer for now.

 

[absmiami]

While I’m spending everyone else’s money … Model Factory Hiro is releasing some pretty good looking sets of 3D printed bolts - and nuts - with longer stems than the Meng sets - they should be more user friendly …