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Posted (edited)

I don't see a problem there. I would only do it if it's a reputable brand. Then wearable parts like tips and needles are readily available as well as any seals, etc. If it's clean and well cared for, an airbrush can last a lifetime. 

So, does this mean you will be changing your screen name?

Edited by Bainford
  • Like 1
Posted

i sold a few  working used airbrushes  i have had on e bay and so far no issues with them,and i have bought one on there a cheap badger 150,the air valve was junk,got a refund for it.

Posted

I have a few myself, I have a mid-line Badger, IIRC the 250. They used to be available at Michaels with the 40% coupon, it was a steal. I'd suggest buying new vs used. Get something that you can get parts for.

Posted (edited)

Whenever you look at buying ANYTHING used, always consider the high probability the seller is dumping it because it's either total junk, or it doesn't work right and he can't fix it, he doesn't understand how to use it, or has taken it apart and buggered it.

I buy a LOT of stuff used to conserve money, including cars, tools, parts, cameras, electronics, and model/hobby stuff.

Probably 30% of what I buy used turns out to have been either just flat lied about, or bodged by some ham-handed chimp who didn't have a clue about "repairing" anything.

In most cases, I can fix whatever's wrong and end up with a significant $$ saving over buying new. That's fine for me. I fix things.

But honestly, as far as an airbrush goes, there's almost no way I'd buy a used one...especially something with not-great parts availability.

There are too many ways to FUBAR an airbrush...which is quite a delicate instrument...and it's just not worth the potential time waste and frustration to me to roll the dice on an easily ruined precision tool that has to function as-designed to be of any value whatsoever.

Edited by Ace-Garageguy
  • Like 1
Posted

It would have to be a brand name (parts available) unit that I could get dirt cheap. You quite likely would be better off to buy a brand new Paasche H or Badger 350. They relatively cheap, easy to use, easy to clean and parts are available. There are other fancier airbrushes, but these are dirt simple workhorses that can use a paint cup or a jar. JMO.?

Posted

If you end up having to buy a part or two, and add shipping to that, the cost of the used airbrush could equal that of a new one.

If it comes with the box and all of the accessories, there's a chance that someone used it once or twice and didn't properly clean it, or just decided it's more work than they want to bother with every time they want to paint something.  So you're taking a chance.  As long as you know that going in...

  • Like 1
Posted

Most of my airbrushes I have a used. Badger 350 which was given too me had issues with the air valve - I fixed that

A Badger 200 that is my go-to airbrush came not working but I got it cheap and it had a whole raft of other stuff with it including a fridge compressor - all it needed was a tear down and clean up

A couple of primo Paasche units, one of which looked line it had not been used

Like @Ace-Garageguy I fix things so buying used generally does not faze me but I do try to be cautious

So if the thing looks OK and there are a lot of pix showing the brush to be in clean and good condition and priced right go for it.

Just bear in mind that if it is a clunker you may not want to ever go down the airbrush route ever again. As mentioned above buying new has some advantages

  • Like 1
Posted

I bought my Iwata Eclipse used on EBay for about half the price of a new one. Brush was in perfect shape and still gets a fair amount of use a decade or so later. Your mileage, of course, may vary.

Posted

I have a used Paasche H I've had for over a year and still works fine. It's a simple rugged airbrush, (single action). They are several on ebay at reasonable prices, and parts are available for them.

Posted

Your philosophy on tools in general might come into play. After all, an airbrush is a tool. There are two routes you can go.

1: You can buy an inexpensive, non-brand name, new or used. The quality may affect how easy it is to use, and either encourage or discourage you from airbrushing. Buying something other than a brand name airbrush, could mean questionable quality and spares availability. It may work, but for how long. If it doesn't work, you might as well write it off as lost money.

2: You can buy a brand name, new or used. Again it may or may not work. If it works, it will most likely continue to do so for some time, given proper care and maintenance. If it doesn't, you will have the assurance that spares are available. Wondering if the quality is long lasting usually does not come into play.

How comfortable you are with replacing airbrush components is a different matter.

My personal philosophy in buying tools, is to go with a brand name and mid to higher level quality. Preferred airbrush brands would include Badger, Paasche, Iwata, Harder & Steenbeck, or Mr. Hobby. I would also include Gaahleri as they have an established spares network.

Posted

Well, I won a Paasche airbrush beginners kit for $15 plus shipping.  Next up is read up on compressors (mainly can I use my 20 gallon shop compressor, and if so what do I need) and respirator

Posted

Use your shop compressor.  Just get a regulator and a moisture trap if you haven't got them already.  Harbor Freight has stuff like that, inexpensive but will work for what we’re doing.  Some guys like the tank- less hobby compressors, but I never liked having the thing running continuously.  I got rid of one not long after getting it.

Posted
3 hours ago, rattle can man said:

Well, I won a Paasche airbrush beginners kit for $15 plus shipping.  Next up is read up on compressors (mainly can I use my 20 gallon shop compressor, and if so what do I need) and respirator

What model Paasche is it?

Posted

Single action is probably better as a starter outfit.  A lot of guys get everything done with that and never see the need to switch to dual action.

Ages ago, I did a number of repaint jobs on Lionel trains for my older brother.  Instead of using the available train restoration paints (which were poor quality) he'd take a piece of the train to an automotive paint supplier and have them custom-mix a small amount of enamel.  I used the cheapo Badger single-action starter set, everything came out great.

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