Atlantis releases Ex Revell 1/32 scale 56 Buick.

[John M.]

I got an E mail from Atlantis yesterday about it. It's taking pre orders on it's website and it has clear glass to boot. It's box art. 

 

[Ragtop Man]

That was one of the toughest to get before this re-release. 

With care and modern paints/foil, etc, they are really nice looking. Pity they were not 1/25. 

Hoping they add the glass to the 1/32 Connie Mk. II - that is my favorite of the bunch.

Edited August 16 by Ragtop Man

[Ace-Garageguy]

2 minutes ago, Ragtop Man said:

That was one of the toughest to get before this re-release. 

With care and modern paints/foil, etc, they are really nice looking. Pity they were not 1/25. 

Hoping they add the glass to the 1/32 Connie Mk. II - that is my favorite of the bunch.

Wish they'd scan it and blow it up to 1/25.

Even as a curbside multi-piece body it would be nice to have another '50s US car.

But the potential market is probably way too small to justify investing in new tooling when re-releasing old-tool kits is apparently working for them just fine.

[Ulf]

Regardless of the scale, agree that four doors are a winner. The original edition of Revell's Ford Sunliner was a 55a, such a backdating of the the would be something. I am open to building everyone in the series.

[ChrisBcritter]

Will wait until I can scrounge a correct grille. 

[Mark]

I'd imagine someone will be casting the stock grille/bumper not long after the Atlantis kit hits the shelves.  Shame they don't tool the thing, but they probably wouldn't sell enough additional kits to justify the cost.

[meechum68]

I'd love to see this as 1/25

[Motor City]

H-1200                      1955 Cadillac Eldorado

H-1201                       1955 Chrysler New Yorker St. Regis

H-1202                      1955 Ford Fairlane Sunliner

H-1203                      1955 Buick Century

H-1204                      1955 Mercury Montclair

H-1200-6                  1956 Cadillac Eldorado

H-1201-6                   1956 Chrysler New Yorker St. Regis

H-1202-6                  1956 Ford Fairlane Sunliner

H-1203-6                  1956 Buick Century

H-1204-6                  1956 Mercury Montclair

H-1206                      Autorama (Century, Eldorado, Fairlane, New Yorker)

H-1209                      1956 Continental Mark II

H-1229                      Ford Customizing Kit

H-1230                      Buick Customizing Kit 

H-1231                      Chrysler Customizing Kit

H-1233                      Mercury Customizing Kit 

Edited August 19 by Motor City

[unclescott58]

How much of this is “stock” vs “custom?” I know it does not have a stock grille. But, what of other parts in this kit?

[unclescott58]

By the way, I love the other 1/32 scale kits I’ve built in this series. I’ve built the ‘56 Continental Mark II, the ‘56 Ford Sunliner, and the ‘56 Caddy Eldorado. I’ve never had any major problems with these kit, despite their multi piece bodies. If they reissue any of these kits with glass I’ll buy and build them again. I’d love to any of the others come back, but mainly in “stock” form.

[64Comet404]

On 8/18/2025 at 11:52 AM, unclescott58 said:

How much of this is “stock” vs “custom?” I know it does not have a stock grille. But, what of other parts in this kit?

I sold my customizing kit years ago, but from memory the most that has been changed is the grille. The rest of the kit was changed with fins and other add-on bodywork.

[Edsel-Dan]

I have several of these, all 56's.

I found a Custom 56 Ford Sunliner at Carlisle years ago.

My first was a built Mercury Pheaton

I now have an Original of the Stock Ford as well as at least 2 of the SSP reissue

from the 90's, 2 of the reissue Cadillac,3 of the Reissue Custom Chrysler and 1 of the Continental reissue

As well as 4 of the Original Chrysler, In the Box, 2 With the Family figures 

I once offered a set of Hubcaps, and grill to be resin cast, but got No taker.

I am Not sure the Buick grill will be seen from one either

Though as it is much more rare, it MIGHT get the treatment

I do have one Stock Buick to TRY to restore, But have not found a way to disassemble it without breaking it

[Ulf]

14 hours ago, Edsel-Dan said:

But have not found a way to disassemble it without breaking it

Have you tried dipping it in water, putting it in a plastic bag and then into the freezer ? Over and over again, if you're lucky, water will get into the joints and the tube glue will crack. I have managed to get the windshield off and get the parts of an engine out of an old kit.

[64Comet404]

19 hours ago, Edsel-Dan said:

I do have one Stock Buick to TRY to restore, But have not found a way to disassemble it without breaking it

If the glue joints are not too thick, I have found the de-bonder fo CA glues does a good job of breaking the old glue joints. 

[peteski]

19 hours ago, 64Comet404 said:

If the glue joints are not too thick, I have found the de-bonder fo CA glues does a good job of breaking the old glue joints. 

Which brand CA debonder did you use? I ask because in my experience those also attack the kit's plastic. CA is acrylic (plastic) which makes sense that  if some chemical dissolves or softens acrylic, it will do the same to polystyrene.

Edited Sunday at 01:55 PM by peteski

[Tom99]

I came across a bunch of parts and pieces of several Revell 1/32 cars. I was only able to save one, a 1956 Mercury.

 

[64Comet404]

21 hours ago, peteski said:

Which brand CA debonder did you use? I ask because in my experience those also attack the kit's plastic. CA is acrylic (plastic) which makes sense that  if some chemical dissolves or softens acrylic, it will do the same to polystyrene.

I use the Bob Smith de-bonder. It can discolour polystyrene, so I try to keep from flooding the area. If the model is heavily glued, I would attempt to dismantle the kit as far as you can before attempting, and grind away as much of the dried glue as you can.

[Ragtop Man]

Jumping in here - for de-bonding styrene, as long as there is a seam to work with, hardware store mineral sprit and a medium sized water color brush will do just fine.

Score the seam with the Xacto to create a fracture line, then brush in the spirits. Object is to keep flowing it so the seam stays wet.

The faint crackling means it is working. Be patient, this can take a little while. 

After 5-10 minutes, the seam can be 'tickled' with a small pry tool. Keep going with the solvent. Brush, wait, tickle, repeat. 

Even if this only gets half a seam, now more drastic means - cotton thread, a photo etch cutter blade, etc. - need less grunt work to remove.