BMF Glue Residue Removal

[Horrorshow]

Which is the best product for removing bare metal foil glue residue?

[stitchdup]

depend on the paint type. i'd try sticking masking tape on the residue first, it can sometimes remove the residue and is a good first step before more aggressive methods. even blutak might work

[slusher]

just rub it off with you fingers or a little windex on a soft rag..

[StevenGuthmiller]

WD-40 will take it off instantly.

 

 

Steve

[NOBLNG]

4 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

WD-40 will take it off instantly.

 

 

Steve

How do you clean off the WD if you want to put more clear on?

[Cool Hand]

Enamel thinner or polishing wax.

Have seen others recommend lighter fluid.

[peteski]

I would skip WD-40 (a lubricant) and just use Naphtha (aka Ronsonol Lighter Fluid).  It is a mild solvent which leaves no residue when it evaporates.  But don't let Naphtha sit on the painted surface too long (especially if the body is painted with solvent based enamels). Just a quick wipe or two should remove all the BMF adhesive residue.

 

Ronsonol is fairly pricey (sold in small quantities). I buy Naphtha in the hardware store's paint thinners section as VM&P Naphtha. I can get it in quart or gallon size cans.  I use it for many tasks (like cleaning and degreasing N scale locomotive mechanisms.

Edited August 27 by peteski

[StevenGuthmiller]

4 hours ago, NOBLNG said:

How do you clean off the WD if you want to put more clear on?

Soap and water.  (Dawn)

 

Of course, I don't clear over the foil.

 

 

Steve

[peteski]

WD40 is a low viscosity penetrating lubricant.  It appears to consist of some heavier lubricant dissolved in slow evaporation rate solvent, probably similar to mineral spirits. If you squirt some WD40 out into a small open container and let it sit for several days the solvent evaporates leaving the thick yellow lubricant behind.  When used on a model, even if WD40 is wiped of, some of the lubricant likely remains. Water and a dishwashing detergent removes it.

Using a mild and quick evaporating solvent like Naphtha will not require the extra step of washing the model since it evaporates with no residue. If there is some residue left behind it is some of the BMF adhesive which was not completely wiped off. Then just repeat the cleaning and that should leave the model adhesive-free with no oily residue.

 

[mcs1056]

"Using a mild and quick evaporating solvent like Naphtha will not require the extra step of washing the model since it evaporates with no residue."

Not entirely true. This is completetly dependent upon the quality of the naptha used. 40 years fixing jets has proven to me (and others) that many of the "lighter fluid" types do, indeed, leave a residue. In most cases (e.g., compressor bearing races, servo drives, etc.) this isn't a problem. Situations involving future paint or other coating applications can be particularly susceptible to the effects. Even M.E.K. (back when we were REAL men and could use it) had to get a wash before chem-treating turbine rotors.

Of course, you'd be better served to drag your model behind a mule than to use M.E.K. on a plastic model 

There's a naptha called VPM (or something like that) that is the most residue-free.

Whatever chemical you use, washing after is usually recommended.

[peteski]

15 minutes ago, mcs1056 said:

"Using a mild and quick evaporating solvent like Naphtha will not require the extra step of washing the model since it evaporates with no residue."

Not entirely true. This is completetly dependent upon the quality of the naptha used. 40 years fixing jets has proven to me (and others) that many of the "lighter fluid" types do, indeed, leave a residue. In most cases (e.g., compressor bearing races, servo drives, etc.) this isn't a problem. Situations involving future paint or other coating applications can be particularly susceptible to the effects. Even M.E.K. (back when we were REAL men and could use it) had to get a wash before chem-treating turbine rotors.

Of course, you'd be better served to drag your model behind a mule than to use M.E.K. on a plastic model 

There's a naptha called VPM (or something like that) that is the most residue-free.

Whatever chemical you use, washing after is usually recommended.

Well Mike, I never had any problems with Naphtha in Ronsonol leaving residue, but I guess it's possible.  I also discovered the "other" Naphtha, and specifically mentioned it in this thread, just three posts above yours:

On 8/26/2025 at 11:19 PM, peteski said:

Ronsonol is fairly pricey (sold in small quantities). I buy Naphtha in the hardware store's paint thinners section as VM&P Naphtha. I can get it in quart or gallon size cans.  I use it for many tasks (like cleaning and degreasing N scale locomotive mechanisms.

The full name of that solvent is Varnish Maker's & Painter's Naphtha,  and it is pure Naphtha.

[mcs1056]

2 minutes ago, peteski said:

Well Mike, I never had any problems with Naphtha in Ronsonol leaving residue, but I guess it's possible.  I also discovered the "other" Naphtha, and specifically mentioned it in this thread, just three posts above yours:

The full name of that solvent is Varnish Maker's & Painter's Naphtha,  and it is pure Naphtha.

Wow. You must be awesome. You DISCOVERED that other Naptha? You're like Isaac Newton, who "discovered" gravity.

[peteski]

8 minutes ago, mcs1056 said:

Wow. You must be awesome. You DISCOVERED that other Naptha? You're like Isaac Newton, who "discovered" gravity.

Nyuk, nyuk, nyuk. Everybody's a clown. 😜

[StevenGuthmiller]

Or you could go out to your garage and grab a can of WD-40, (that everybody on the planet has on hand). 😉

 

 

Steve

[Repstock]

I just use any model compatible polishing products. They're made for model finishes anyway.

Edited Friday at 09:05 PM by Repstock

[peteski]

2 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

Or you could go out to your garage and grab a can of WD-40, (that everybody on the planet has on hand). 😉

Steve

Sure, why I didn't think of that Steve. Call me silly. My WD40 is actually downstairs in the basement (not lucky enough to have a garage). Let me go and lube up my model.    But wait, I also have a quart can of VM&P Naphtha which is on a shelf in my hobby workshop, and also a gallon in the basement.  Oh what a dilemma!  Which to chose?  A lubricant, or a solvent. Man out hobby can sometimes get complicated.

[StevenGuthmiller]

1 hour ago, peteski said:

Sure, why I didn't think of that Steve. Call me silly. My WD40 is actually downstairs in the basement (not lucky enough to have a garage). Let me go and lube up my model.    But wait, I also have a quart can of VM&P Naphtha which is on a shelf in my hobby workshop, and also a gallon in the basement.  Oh what a dilemma!  Which to chose?  A lubricant, or a solvent. Man out hobby can sometimes get complicated.

Don’t get your panties in a bunch.

This thread isn’t about you.

It’s about the OP who’s looking for a simple solution to removing something as basic as BMF adhesive.

My suggestion is directed towards him, and anybody else that wants to remedy a simple problem with something that they might have in hand.

Not all of us want to have to go out and purchase a bunch of extra stuff for every little thing.

There are dozens of ways to remove adhesive, and I don’t much care what it is, I wouldn’t go without cleaning the model afterwards, regardless.

I’m just trying to offer a solution to the OP that doesn’t require cluttering up his environment with a bunch of extra junk that he doesn’t need, or want.

A little WD on a Q-tip, wipe off the excess, and a light wash in warm water and Dawn……problem solved.

 

 

 

Steve

Edited August 28 by StevenGuthmiller

[av405]

I 100% agree with Steve on his recommendation. I bought the smallest size can of WD-40 and keep it on my bench. I use the nozzle straw and spray some into a small cup. Then I dip a Q-tip into it and use it to scrub the adhesive off. I then wipe the area off with a slightly wet micro fiber towel. I admit to not mixing it with Dawn, but I probably should. I've been doing this for about 4 years and haven't had a problem yet. 

[peteski]

1 hour ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

Don’t get your panties in a bunch.

This thread isn’t about you.

It’s about the OP who’s looking for a simple solution to removing something as basic as BMF adhesive.

My suggestion is directed towards him, and anybody else that wants to remedy a simple problem with something that they might have in hand.

Not all of us want to have to go out and purchase a bunch of extra stuff for every little thing.

There are dozens of ways to remove adhesive, and I don’t much care what it is, I wouldn’t go without cleaning the model afterwards, regardless.

I’m just trying to offer a solution to the OP that doesn’t require cluttering up his environment with a bunch of extra junk that he doesn’t need, or want.

A little WD on a Q-tip, wipe off the excess, and a light wash in warm water and Dawn……problem solved.

Steve

Steve, my pants aren't bunched at all. I was just having some fun. Why do you think I used smileys?

[Rick L]

I agree with Steve. There are more uses to WD40 than naphtha.

As a matter of fact I think there’s a can in MY mothers basement also.😆

 

Edited August 28 by Rick L
Forgot the smiley face

[StevenGuthmiller]

2 hours ago, Rick L said:

I agree with Steve. There are more uses to WD40 than naphtha.

As a matter of fact I think there’s a can in MY mothers basement also.😆

 

Strangely enough, the predominant ingredient in WD-40 in Australia is Naphtha.

 

 

Steve

[mcs1056]

14 hours ago, peteski said:

Steve, my pants aren't bunched at all. I was just having some fun. Why do you think I used smileys?

To quote Ricky Bobby, " I said, 'With all due respect'"

[peteski]

None of  you guys seem to get the point. Regardless of what the solvent in WD40 is, the elephant in the room is that WD40 is a lubricant, and when its solvent evaporates, the greasy film of that said lubricant remains behind (which is why WD40 is useful as a lubricant. It *IS* a lubricant).  If you use Naphtha (a solvent/thinner, not a lubricant), there is no greasy film to remove.  Whatever . . .

[StevenGuthmiller]

On 9/1/2025 at 9:55 AM, peteski said:

None of  you guys seem to get the point. Regardless of what the solvent in WD40 is, the elephant in the room is that WD40 is a lubricant, and when its solvent evaporates, the greasy film of that said lubricant remains behind (which is why WD40 is useful as a lubricant. It *IS* a lubricant).  If you use Naphtha (a solvent/thinner, not a lubricant), there is no greasy film to remove.  Whatever . . .

We do get it.

That doesn't mean that WD isn't a completely viable alternative for removing adhesive, and it's something that almost everyone already has on hand.

As I said, regardless of what I use, whether it's a lubricant or a solvent, I for one am not going to apply anything over it, (ie, paint or decals) without cleaning the surface first, so what's the difference?

WD-40 washes right off with soap and water, which is what I'm going to use for whatever.

 

In any case, when I apply foil, it's the last thing that's going onto the model.

There's no reason that I can see why one needs to apply clear or decals after foil.

It's a matter of doing things in a prescribed order.

 

If you must do additional work after applying the foil, and you don't feel comfortable using WD to remove the adhesive, then don't. 

By all means, go out and buy additional materials that you have no other use for.

No skin off of my backside.

 

By the way, many of the other suggestions that I have seen, such as polishes and waxes can be much more difficult to remove than mineral oil, which is basically what you have in WD.

If you plan on doing anything to the model after foiling, I certainly wouldn't use a wax.

But then again, I find no need for waxing a model anyway.

 

 

 

Steve

 

 

[Cool Hand]

@StevenGuthmiller how would you approach adhesive residue removal when doing Bmf before paint ??

Reason I ask is, I apply the foil after 1st coat of primer/surfacer, and will use enamel thinner to remove residue as that just evaporates.

If I was to use WD-40 could it be absorbed into the primer surfacer, and even if cleaned thoroughly effect paint adhesion ??

 

Edited 5 hours ago by Cool Hand