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Dry-lakes scratchbashed '29 Ford/Ardun: Front 4-link, etc., Jan. 26


Ace-Garageguy

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Again, thanks to everyone who's commented for your interest and encouragement.

Started to do the plug wires, as she's getting a Vertex mag and I need to see where the wires can run and clear all the pulleys, carbs, etc. These Revell heads are nice, but it's a bugger to drill them for wires. Careful careful.

FEB%2028%202015%20Ardun%20Caddy%20029_zp

While I was looking at the heads, I decided I'd really like to have the heads themselves done in an as-cast aluminum finish and the rocker covers done in a polished finish. Problem: the heads and valve rocker covers are molded in one piece on these Revell units. I don't want to mask little fiddly stuff like that and get poor color separation. Hmmm. Solution: cut the rocker covers off, and make new separate heads. That will make it easy to relocate the water outlets to the center of the heads too, which I'd prefer as this car has a water tank in the tail.

So, here's one rocker cover liberated from the rest of the head and squared-up on the bottom surface.

FEB%2028%202015%20Ardun%20Caddy%20050_zp

New head getting there.

FEB%2028%202015%20Ardun%20Caddy%20051_zp

Second one going together from styrene stock bits. This will also let me clean up a couple of things I don't like about these heads. Though they're really very nice, for this car, I want just a bit better (without buying the beautiful R&M parts).

FEB%2028%202015%20Ardun%20Caddy%20054_zp[/u

The Revell heads don't fit the flathead block exactly right, and with the Vertex mag in front, plus the water pumps and pulleys, everything is a little tight. My new heads will fit more correctly.

Edited by Ace-Garageguy
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Bill, this project is ABSOLUTELY AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!!! One of the best looking and best proportioned lakes roadsters in scale I've ever seen.

Years ago I did similar with the Revell ARDUN heads. I managed to separate the valve covers from the head portion by scribing with the back of a #11 blade just under the valve cover lip.

IMG_5832-vi.jpgHosted on Fotki

End result:

IMG_6072-vi.jpgHosted on Fotki

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Bill, this project is ABSOLUTELY AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!!! One of the best looking and best proportioned lakes roadsters in scale I've ever seen.

Thanks Dennis. Coming from a guy who builds the real deal on the left coast, that means a lot.

Your Ardun mod looks great. Did you do the top-shift mod on the gearbox too? I don't recall seeing one in a kit.

I spent most of yesterday researching Ardun installations...specifically angle-drives for the Vertex / Scintilla magneto (which will have to clear the water pump belts, kinda tricky), and early post-war blower and FI parts. I was originally intending to go with 8, 1-barrel carbs on this, but the linkage would be a nightmare and slow the build even more. Then started thinking about an early GMC 3-71 blower setup, but to be right, it would take a multiple V-belt drive, and that would require machining pulleys...again, too much sideways time.

Stu Hilborn's mechanical fuel injection did exist at this time, but probably wasn't available as an Ardun bolt-on. Still, guys in those days weren't shy about fabricating and even casting their own parts, so it's entirely possible that, in the time period this model represents, some enterprising rodder / pattern maker could have cast up a set of injector bodies for an Ardun, and used Hilborn guts. It's important to me to make the car historically possible (something that COULD have been built with then-current and available parts and technology).

The Hilborn setup vastly simplifies the throttle linkage, will clear the hood with no bubble (not knowing what induction setup I was going to use prevented finishing the hood), and makes the belt / pulley question a non-issue.

The Hilborn setup also will work nicely with the center coolant ports I want to use on the heads, which could be an important factor in a lakes car.

The last trick was finding a pair of parts-box bits with the right port-spacing to work on the Ardun...which I did, some old log manifolds from something unknown that I'll rework into presentable Hilborn injector bodies.

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Thanks Dennis. Coming from a guy who builds the real deal on the left coast, that means a lot.

Your Ardun mod looks great. Did you do the top-shift mod on the gearbox too? I don't recall seeing one in a kit.

I spent most of yesterday researching Ardun installations...specifically angle-drives for the Vertex / Scintilla magneto (which will have to clear the water pump belts, kinda tricky), and early post-war blower and FI parts. I was originally intending to go with 8, 1-barrel carbs on this, but the linkage would be a nightmare and slow the build even more. Then started thinking about an early GMC 3-71 blower setup, but to be right, it would take a multiple V-belt drive, and that would require machining pulleys...again, too much sideways time.

Stu Hilborn's mechanical fuel injection did exist at this time, but probably wasn't available as an Ardun bolt-on. Still, guys in those days weren't shy about fabricating and even casting their own parts, so it's entirely possible that, in the time period this model represents, some enterprising rodder / pattern maker could have cast up a set of injector bodies for an Ardun, and used Hilborn guts. It's important to me to make the car historically possible (something that COULD have been built with then-current and available parts and technology).

The Hilborn setup vastly simplifies the throttle linkage, will clear the hood with no bubble (not knowing what induction setup I was going to use prevented finishing the hood), and makes the belt / pulley question a non-issue.

The Hilborn setup also will work nicely with the center coolant ports I want to use on the heads, which could be an important factor in a lakes car.

The last trick was finding a pair of parts-box bits with the right port-spacing to work on the Ardun...which I did, some old log manifolds from something unknown that I'll rework into presentable Hilborn injector bodies.

I believe on the transmission I used the tower portion from the Revell '29/'31 Model A kits as it's a separate part. Not really correct for a V8 trans, but it got the job done.

I have seen pictures of a Hilborn injected ARDUN in a dragster but that was later 50's or early 60's. I am sure if the interest was there for an ARDUN setup Hilborn would have accommodated it in the 40's or early 50's. Especially considering how accessible pattern makers and foundries were back then. They probably could have whipped one up on short order and used existing guts from an OHV setup.

The ARDUN / Hilborn setup I saw also had the fuel pump mounted where the generator normally sits and was belt driven. Nice and tidy.

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First shot here shows the level forward section of the bellypan, and the raked rear portion. Idea is to generate a little downforce on the tail to improve traction at high speeds. To my knowledge, nothing like this was tried back then, but there's absolutely nothing that would have prevented someone thinking of it.

MARCH%207%202015%20045_zpsfcrxn5oj.jpg

Final shapes coming together, and the car closing on its final overall appearance. Stock AMT '29 roadster in the background is the basis.

MARCH%207%202015%20054_zpseirjgg9j.jpg

High rear 3/4 view shows helmet fairing and rear of tonneau very close to final shapes.

MARCH%207%202015%20056_zpsr1h6oah8.jpg

Front 3/4 view also shows slightly reshaped nose for cleaner lines. First snap-in windshield experiment worked as planned, so final tweeking and a re-cut of the clear material will have that dialed in too.

MARCH%207%202015%20057_zpsahhvnuen.jpg

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  • 3 weeks later...

Reworked the helmet fairing, lower, more rounded in back. Also fitted the headers this side, cut the hood for them, and relocated the front 4-link to clear.

MARCH%2025%202015%20073_zpsf3v9ld66.jpg

Pretty tight up in front, but everything would clear enough to work.

MARCH%2025%202015%20076_zpslrlbx2dp.jpg

Reworked the nose profile and curvature as well. Maybe not much different to some eyes, but much, much better to mine. EDIT: But now I see a little bump in the curve that crept in due to the different hardnesses of the plastic and the bondo. Gotta fix that. Man, these big photos really show stuff it's easy to miss otherwise.

MARCH%2025%202015%20078_zpsu2edaibg.jpg

MARCH%2025%202015%20079_zpsk7n85jv0.jpg

Edited by Ace-Garageguy
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