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Art Anderson

Member Since 25 Aug 2008
Offline Last Active Today, 04:19 PM
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Posts I've Made

In Topic: Coker Tires philosophy, from the latest Issue of HRD

14 April 2014 - 04:23 PM

Correct.......GoodYears fees went up a BUNCH....but by that time I was out of the biz.  I have even heard rumor later GoodYear realized playing hard ball was a mistake and went back from the per model fee to a reasonable fee. The model company sent them a bill for the cost to engrave GoodYear on all the molds.......you know what happened! 

 

Round2 has much more product line to spread the cost across. TONS of die cast in 1/64 to 1/18. It's just a different deal. I kinda stand with Revell....charge me to advertise YOUR product?!?!?!?


And yet, if one looks closely at the tires in Revell's '49 Mercury station wagon kit---they are clearly engraved in raised detail....FIRESTONE!   Of course the lettering, and the Firestone logo are quite small, as in keeping with tires of that era which could be made either white or black wall, all lettering was outboard of the "scuff" bead, as the space between that bead and the bead of the tire against the rim had to be kept open, so that the black layer of rubber could be buffed off of the tire casing to expose the layer of white rubber which made the white sidewall.

 

But, the tire mfr information is clearly on those tires.

 

Art


In Topic: 1948 Ford flathead wiring

14 April 2014 - 06:49 AM

Looks pretty good to me!

 

Art


In Topic: Old Jo-Han promo plastic question

14 April 2014 - 06:45 AM

So is it correct that acetone will be able to glue acetate together? I've wanted a '58 Chevy four-door hardtop for a long time, but they're always bent down at the tail. I think I could cut the body at the rear door line, do a pie-cut going up from the bottom and reattach it - if there was a way to cement the two parts together. Would acetone do the trick?

 

Acetone is the perfect solvent (or glue) for acetate plastic, always has been.

 

Some have asked why early 3in1 model car kits were made in styrene, while promo's were made (from very nearly the same tooling) in acetate plastic (later Cycolac --also known as ABS plastic):  That's pretty simple.

 

Acetate was probably the very first plastic compound that could be melted with heat and then injected under high pressure into steel molds to make molded plastic parts.  In the middle 1930's, acetate (known then by the brand name under which it was invented by DuPont:  Tenite) plastics were used for many products, knobs and trim for home radios, knobs, and even dashboard trim for automobiles (Ford promoted their use of acetate plastic made from soybeans--one of the very first "biorenewable" plastic products!).  Acetate's principal advantage (besides being the first injection moldable plastic) was, and is, it's relative toughness, and resistance to shattering.

 

After WW-II, along came styrene, which showed promise of being an inexpensive plastic material that could also be injection-molded.  However, straight styrene is very brittle, shatters easily into shards that present a laceration and puncture hazard--particularly for kids playing with toys made from the stuff.  So, when Cruver, AMT, Product Miniatures and Ideal Models (which later changed in name to JoHan) began producing promotional model cars for the auto industry, they quickly settled on the relatively shatter-proof acetate plastic.  Anyone who remembers the very earliest plastic model car kits, particularly from AMT and JoHan, which  body shells were molded in promotional model tooling, will remember just how brittle those bodies (and other parts) could be

 

Acetate however, has always had its drawbacks:  It shrinks somewhat over time, as evidenced not only by warped promo's of the era 50-60 years ago, but also steering wheels (which were molded from acetate over steel structures) with rims that cracked into segments of plastic with gaps upwards of 1/8" all around the wheel rim.

 

In the very late 1950's, ABS plastic was developed.  This material resists shattering very much like acetate, but doesn't have the shrinkage problem, nor is ABS affected by moisture (either from immersion in water, or merely the humidity in the air) that are also drawbacks of acetate plastic.  It's little wonder that ABS quickly found a place in toymaking, and is still used to this day.

 

AMT Corporation made the transition from acetate to ABS with their 1962 promotional models, while of course retaining styrene for use in molding model car kits.  JoHan made the shift sometime in midyear 1962 although their first full year of molding promo's in ABS seems to have been 1963.  MPC, when introducing their promotional models for 1965, along with several 1/25 scale slot car kits, heavily advertised their use of Cycolac ABS for these products.

 

Art


In Topic: 1/25 Revell '49 Mercury Wagon

14 April 2014 - 06:06 AM

When fitting the kit whitewall tires up on my Revell '49 Mercury wagon, I noticed that there is lettering on them!!!!  Yup, that's right:  FIRESTONE, with the Firestone "F" shield, and almost readable "Gum-Dipped" lettering.

 

So, it does appear that tire lettering is back at Revell.

 

Art


In Topic: resin body shiny spot

13 April 2014 - 09:52 AM

i got a really nice resin body and i scrubbed it with purple power and a toothbrush and then dawn soap. i did this twice  and there are 2 spots that are still shiny, and feels a little slippery.

 

i am now soaking the body in the purple power to try to get those spots, but does the shiny spot definitely mean i didnt get all the release agent?

i dont want to paint to have that spot popup as a problem and then i have hours worth of corrections. 

 

thanks

Key to the shiny spot indicating an uncured defective place in the casting should be quite simple, actually:  Is it sticky to the touch?  If not, if it's click hard and tack-free, more than likely it is just a surface anomaly, nothing at all serious or paint-job preventing.

 

Just my considered opinion....

 

Art