peteski

Using 1:1 vehicle sizes for model tire references is usually not very accurate. Lots of model tires of the day were not properly scaled to begin with. If one wants to use the Modelhaus tires as replacements for the original kit's tires, that works, ok, but if one wants to use them on another project, actual physical dimensions of the resin tires would be very helpful. Something like what Fireball or American Satco used to include with their tires. That way you can actually verify if the tire will fit your application. It shouldn't be that difficult to add that info to the Modelhaus website. Just a $20 caliper from Harbor Freight and some time to edit the website.

"Mark site read" link is present on every page of the forum and it marks all the messages as read. Then in each section of the forum there is "Mark Forum read" button which only marks messages of that particular section as read. I didn't think there was a way to undo clicking on either of those and Dave just confirmed. I don't read every new post on every section anyways. I exclusively use "Mark Forum read". I have mistakenly click on "Mark site read", but after few days I had plenty of new messages to read, and if the discussion which was mistakenly marked read is active, it will likely again show up with additional new posts in it.

Since, as you mentioned the molded frames are already out of scale, how will painting them with bright paint make them look more in-scale than foiled?

That is one of several G-gauge scales where the same track gauge is used to represent different 1:1 track spacing (gauge) trains. See "NMRA deep flange scales" table on https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rail_transport_modelling_scales There are some strange scale variants in model railroading.

As I mentioned in my initial post these decals use different (and thicker) ink which does not respond to old-school decal softening solutions. SpotModel's response seems to confirm that. I bet by "digitally printed" they likely mean those were printed on a special ink jet printer using UV-cured inks. I have seen similarly printed decals in the model railroad hobby. Not a positive development. The

Why? Is the gray primer more opaque than white primer? Wouldn't 2 coats of white primer have same thickness as a coat of gray and a coat of white?

As you mentioned, model car industry runs a tight ship, and does not have lots of advertising dollars to spend. Why would they run paid-for ads here when the forum's membership already discusses here all the model news and latest releases already. They have all their advertising (and also opinions or reviews) for free.

We can discuss what we like or don't like for model companies to produce, but the point mostly missed here is that the bottom line is that is all about the model companies staying in the "black", and even making some profits. That is a goal of every company which expects to stay in business. If reissues are doing that for them, then they will continue producing them. Mike finally brought that point in his post.

In today's state of our hobby this looks to me like a perfect subjects to be 3-D printed. There is a member here who has business printing 3-D engines. Maybe ask him if he would be interested in taking this project on.

They already are (right below all the sticky posts). Just like other forums I participate in. Where would you suggest to place sticky posts?

If that strip is nickel plated steel, when you cut it that exposes the bare steel edge. Depending on your local climate and how the model is handled, that edge might start oxidizing (rusting) after some time. That might not be desirable.

Look in Model Railroad supplies. You should be able to find some very fine chains. I just found a 40 links per inch chain on eBay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/236030948961 That should be fine enough to work as a tailgate chain for a 1:25 pickup. You will likely have to blacken it as not many trucks have gold colored chains. Do some Google or eBay searches for similar chains - maybe you'll find one with silver or black finish. Try amazon too.

Not sure I understand how a private person would be different. The process will be the same. A private person will need to get the information from you and the payment, devote some time time (often several hours) designing the artwork, then hopefully provide proofs to show you how the decal will look. Often sizing the decal (to fit the model) can be a challenge and requires some back and forth between the designer and customer. Professional custom-decal maker will follow the same process. I'm speaking from experience since I print my own decals.

I think the best solution would have been to apply patch of Bare Metal foil to the lettering after the primer coat, then spray the top color, then remove the paint from the raised lettering exposing the metal foil. There are members on this forum who have successfully done that and it looks really good. @StevenGuthmiller is one of them.

Those decals look relatively thick. One of the photos where light reflects of the decal surface seems to show a fine line pattern in it, like it was printed using one of the ink jet printers with UV-cured inks. Those inks usually do not respond to any typical decal solutions. I'll be curious what the SpotModel offers for a solution.