peteski

Maybe so, but not sure how you can guarantee that (since the caller IDs are randomly generated by the scammers so you won't know that they, or one of the many other scammers in that group call again). But even if their ear hurts (which is doubtful because even a whistle will not be that loud on their end coming out from a tiny headphone), they will mark your number as active and sell it to many other scammers. I doubt they put a "whistler" warning on that list. You are much better off not answering. But if whistling makes you feel better, then keep on doing that with all the scammer calls.

Here - your thread is on top again (until someone else replies to another thread).

This is not a game William. Why care if your post is on top and how long it stays there? Is it really *THAT* important?! We are here to share our modeling and relax, not get ticked off. Maybe it is time for a time out? When I visit the forum looking at unread posts I look at the posts with subject lines that interest me. That means I rarely even look at the top posts.

Transparent headlight lenses are the ultimate way to achieve realism in your model, but as mentioned (if the lens openings are drilled out), they also need a reflector behind them to make them look like 1:1 headlights (which have parabolic reflectors). An alternative for making your own reflector is to glue some inexpensive rhinestones behind the lens. These have facets and also mirrored back which nicely simulates a reflector behind the lens. Round rhinestones in various diameters are available in craft stores. Choose one with the diameter close to the lens diameter When locating them behind the clear lens it is best to glue them from the back (so the adhesive does not affect the rhinestone's faceted surface)

Tamiya Spray (TS) metallic (aka. "Mica") paints (and all the older Testors metallic model paints) are single stage, They dry to a glossy surface not requiring a glossy clear coat. Sanding/polishing them can ruin the color by removing the top paint layer (which usually contains the transparent coloring) and exposing the silver-colored metallic particles. These can also take an additional clear top coat whihc then could be sanded/polished (at the cost of adding thickness to the overall finish). But some more recent metallic paints (actually 1:1 scale automotive finishing products repackaged for modelers) are 2-stage, where the metallic/color layer produces a satin surface, requiring the 2nd stage top glossy clear coat. Since the metallic/color layer is deep under the clear, those can be sanded and polished.

With the MCM magazine seemingly floundering, I figured I'll try to get some answers. I hope someone @Dave Ambrose in charge can provide some insights. Before the separation when the forum was being hosted by the Model Car Magazine, was it being ran strictly as a free service to modelers (whether they were MCM subscribers or not), or was it generating any profits (beyond covering the cost to run the forum) to the MCM magazine? The other question I also have is now, that MCM(akers) forum has become independent operation, is it now a for-profit operation, or just for the love of the hobby, with the ad revenue and possibly paid optional membership just covering the cost of running the forum)?

Clear glossy coatings have no pigments or flattering agents so you should not need to shake the can. Maybe mix them for a while by holding them upright in your hand and using swirling motion.

That should work. I also want to mention that I never spray the accelerator on anything, I use micro-brushes to apply it to the glued areas. I little goes a long way.

Absolutely, but they will not show up as having new posts in them. No posts or threads disappear by making them read.

That looks like a 1:1 scale slammer class model.

Using 1:1 vehicle sizes for model tire references is usually not very accurate. Lots of model tires of the day were not properly scaled to begin with. If one wants to use the Modelhaus tires as replacements for the original kit's tires, that works, ok, but if one wants to use them on another project, actual physical dimensions of the resin tires would be very helpful. Something like what Fireball or American Satco used to include with their tires. That way you can actually verify if the tire will fit your application. It shouldn't be that difficult to add that info to the Modelhaus website. Just a $20 caliper from Harbor Freight and some time to edit the website.

"Mark site read" link is present on every page of the forum and it marks all the messages as read. Then in each section of the forum there is "Mark Forum read" button which only marks messages of that particular section as read. I didn't think there was a way to undo clicking on either of those and Dave just confirmed. I don't read every new post on every section anyways. I exclusively use "Mark Forum read". I have mistakenly click on "Mark site read", but after few days I had plenty of new messages to read, and if the discussion which was mistakenly marked read is active, it will likely again show up with additional new posts in it.

Since, as you mentioned the molded frames are already out of scale, how will painting them with bright paint make them look more in-scale than foiled?

That is one of several G-gauge scales where the same track gauge is used to represent different 1:1 track spacing (gauge) trains. See "NMRA deep flange scales" table on https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rail_transport_modelling_scales There are some strange scale variants in model railroading.

As I mentioned in my initial post these decals use different (and thicker) ink which does not respond to old-school decal softening solutions. SpotModel's response seems to confirm that. I bet by "digitally printed" they likely mean those were printed on a special ink jet printer using UV-cured inks. I have seen similarly printed decals in the model railroad hobby. Not a positive development. The