peteski

In an earlier post Frank mentioned "Theyre only being used for special events 3 of them already got damaged due to lack of experience by their officers", so I don't expect them involved in any high-speed maneuvers.

You probably remember that we had that before the last major reshuffle of the forum. I liked it being separate, but I somehow doubt it will be brought back.

It is not about offense words - those get automatically censored, replaced with "blah, blah, blah". It is about what in my opinion is terrible software design where including words which can be used as a database command language will cause that weird effect you experienced. Instead of giving an informative error about the forbidden words, the forum software just pukes. There are multiple threads in this section of the forum. with more details about this "problem" . EDIT: actually I was going to post few links to those threads related to the problem (some were fairly recent) but they all seem to have disappeared. I found some older thread and here is some useful info from Dave:

Why not just file either the offending edges on the lid or the body openings in those areas? The change in size of the lids or the openings will be tiny - probably not noticeable. I would have to find and dig out my models to see what this is all about. It just looks odd for Tamiya. EDIT: Mike just posted what he found. I guess even Tamiya can have fitment problems like this.

I have couple of those kits but haven't tried to build them yet. That doesn't look like a typical Tamiya kit fitment problem. Is this the original release of that kit, or a newer release (assuming there were multiple runs)? The gaps seem uneven, almost as of there was flash in the openings. Have you done anything to either the hood/trunk or to the body openings, or all the parts are untouched kit parts?

That thing belongs in the "Blade Runner" movie. The paint job also makes it look less like a dumpster.

The PerlEx powders I have seen are not pigments which dissolve in paint but metallic or pearl particles. They will be similar to what is in any metallic or mica paints.

Thanks chaves pah! What had me worried was his apparent lack of replies to emails. Good to know he is still around producing all those very nice 3-D printed parts. I'm also curious if you are located in USA or elsewhere.

That Tamiya kit is plastic - not diecast metal.

Aren't emergency channels scrambled nowadays? Is all the nasty stuff happening at the "new" supposedly serene place you moved to recently? Or are you still ad the "old" location?

That came out quite well Dom. The black master tire appears to be 3D printed. Couldn't you just print or buy more of them instead of going through the complication and hassle of casting them out or urethane resin?

You did say "rod". Unlike metal (aluminum copper or tin) rods , polystyrene rod when bent will not retain the formed shape. It will try to flex back to its original shape. A "rod" by definition is solid material(not a hollow tube). But a polystyrene tube with a metal rod inserted in it would retain its formed shape much better.

As far as solder being "saggy", if using solid core solder (no flux) and at a diameter large enough for 1:24 exhaust headers, the solder wire will be more than stiff enough to hold its shape, especially the more recent lead-free plumber's solder.

Directly pasted links will display differently depending on what the link points to. If it is an image or a MCM forum thread, it will get expanded. If not, it will just be a clickable text link. If you use the "insert link" button, those will always show up only as clickable text link, regardless where they point (images or MCM forum threads). Again, this is on a computer, not on a smart phone.

What I should have also mentioned to Momin, is that on his first model forget things like clear coats (and if using plastic compatible paints), you can forget primer too. Just prep (sand) the bare plastic and spray some glossy paint of your choice, It will be more than sufficient for a first model. Primers and clear coats are for when you get into more advanced modeling. As a kid I used to brush-paint my models. Then, as an adult I got back into models I started with spray paints (those Testors enamels) on bare plastic. You don't need any advanced modeling tools or finishes to build decent models. Some of my early models (enamels over bare plastic and no clear, no sanding, polishing or waxing) look like this: These are all 1:32 scale models. Photos taken over 30 years ago with my Nikon 35mm SLR camera (and more recently the 4x6 prints were scanned on my computer)