peteski

Aluminum is a soft machinable metal - I never had any problems turning or milling any common aluminum alloys. Not sure why whatever alloy is available in hobby shops would be not recommeneded for turning. Is the type of alloy even identified in the hobby shop items? Common Aluminum Series & Alloys 1000 Series: Nearly pure aluminum (99%+), excellent corrosion resistance, highly malleable (e.g., 1100 for food packaging, electrical). 2000 Series: Alloyed with copper for high strength (e.g., 2024 for aerospace), but lower corrosion resistance. 3000 Series: Contains manganese, offering good workability and corrosion resistance (e.g., 3003 for cookware, general fabrication). 4000 Series: Silicon alloyed for heat resistance (e.g., 4043 for welding). 5000 Series: Magnesium alloyed, excellent seawater corrosion resistance and weldability (e.g., 5052 for marine, automotive). 6000 Series: Magnesium & silicon, good strength, formability, and corrosion resistance (e.g., 6061 for structural, 6063 for architectural). 7000 Series: Zinc alloyed, highest strength (e.g., 7075 for aircraft structures). 8000 Series: Miscellaneous alloys, often used for building wire.

Remove half of the on-board computers dedicated to the very driver-distracting infotainment and "luxury" features in modern cars. That will be more than few ounces, and provide safer driving experience.

Thanks for the Clarification Dave. Scott, if you look through the main topic about this change it shows that only the URL, hosting location, and ownership will change. Everything else will be transferred (seamlessly). The only change from the user's end is the URL you will be using for access, but the current URL will remain active for quite some time (automatically redirecting to the new location).

It looks great!

Maybe so, but not sure how you can guarantee that (since the caller IDs are randomly generated by the scammers so you won't know that they, or one of the many other scammers in that group call again). But even if their ear hurts (which is doubtful because even a whistle will not be that loud on their end coming out from a tiny headphone), they will mark your number as active and sell it to many other scammers. I doubt they put a "whistler" warning on that list. You are much better off not answering. But if whistling makes you feel better, then keep on doing that with all the scammer calls.

Here - your thread is on top again (until someone else replies to another thread).

Transparent headlight lenses are the ultimate way to achieve realism in your model, but as mentioned (if the lens openings are drilled out), they also need a reflector behind them to make them look like 1:1 headlights (which have parabolic reflectors). An alternative for making your own reflector is to glue some inexpensive rhinestones behind the lens. These have facets and also mirrored back which nicely simulates a reflector behind the lens. Round rhinestones in various diameters are available in craft stores. Choose one with the diameter close to the lens diameter When locating them behind the clear lens it is best to glue them from the back (so the adhesive does not affect the rhinestone's faceted surface)

Tamiya Spray (TS) metallic (aka. "Mica") paints (and all the older Testors metallic model paints) are single stage. They dry to a glossy surface not requiring a glossy clear coat. Sanding/polishing them can ruin the color by removing the top paint layer (which usually contains the transparent coloring) and exposing the silver-colored metallic particles. These single stage paints can also take an additional clear top coat which then could be sanded/polished (at the cost of adding thickness to the overall finish). But some more recent metallic paints (actually 1:1 scale automotive finishing products repackaged for modelers) are 2-stage, where the metallic/color layer produces a satin surface, requiring the 2nd stage top glossy clear coat. Since the metallic/color layer is deep under the clear, those can be sanded and polished (after the clear coat).

With the MCM magazine seemingly floundering, I figured I'll try to get some answers. I hope someone @Dave Ambrose in charge can provide some insights. Before the separation when the forum was being hosted by the Model Car Magazine, was it being ran strictly as a free service to modelers (whether they were MCM subscribers or not), or was it generating any profits (beyond covering the cost to run the forum) to the MCM magazine? The other question I also have is now, that MCM(akers) forum has become independent operation, is it now a for-profit operation, or just for the love of the hobby, with the ad revenue and possibly paid optional membership just covering the cost of running the forum)?

Clear glossy coatings have no pigments or flattering agents so you should not need to shake the can. Maybe mix them for a while by holding them upright in your hand and using swirling motion.

That should work. I also want to mention that I never spray the accelerator on anything, I use micro-brushes to apply it to the glued areas. I little goes a long way.

Absolutely, but they will not show up as having new posts in them. No posts or threads disappear by making them read.

That looks like a 1:1 scale slammer class model.

Using 1:1 vehicle sizes for model tire references is usually not very accurate. Lots of model tires of the day were not properly scaled to begin with. If one wants to use the Modelhaus tires as replacements for the original kit's tires, that works, ok, but if one wants to use them on another project, actual physical dimensions of the resin tires would be very helpful. Something like what Fireball or American Satco used to include with their tires. That way you can actually verify if the tire will fit your application. It shouldn't be that difficult to add that info to the Modelhaus website. Just a $20 caliper from Harbor Freight and some time to edit the website.

"Mark site read" link is present on every page of the forum and it marks all the messages as read. Then in each section of the forum there is "Mark Forum read" button which only marks messages of that particular section as read. I didn't think there was a way to undo clicking on either of those and Dave just confirmed. I don't read every new post on every section anyways. I exclusively use "Mark Forum read". I have mistakenly click on "Mark site read", but after few days I had plenty of new messages to read, and if the discussion which was mistakenly marked read is active, it will likely again show up with additional new posts in it.