The cars share soo much that in the virtual design phase, lots of components even with slight differences can be drawn at the same time and parts breakdown that maximizes common components, still taking into account easy of assembly and painting (form follows function)
Then when the 3D files of common and all siblings is done, it's only a matter of tool lay-out to get the most bang for your (invested) buck/
Maybe we should put this on FB and try to crowd fund it
Ps. the following is something a few friends and I wrote down on the matter a little over a decade ago....in 2004.
Proposal 13) 1970 AMC AMX, by Luc Janssens, with help from Terry Laferriere & Mark
1) what subject would you kit, and why?
1970 AMC AMX, with Go Package
Why well, it’s a neat little muscle car and muscle cars sell, mostly due to the exposure they get, through the media.
2) Set your target audience, decide on skill level, parts breakdown and overall design.
skill level two, I’m targeting for the Novice builder, Muscle car fans, age 30 and up.
- Chassis: floor pan with molded-in rear wheel well, front frame, and fuel tank.
- Drive-train: 390 Ram Air engine with automatic, broken down in the same manner as the Amt ’71 Charger, and the same goes for the full rear axle assembly, with traction bars, front suspension broken down in the same manor as the 1/24 scale Monogram ’66 Mustang, but with separate spindles, and front disk brakes.
- Interior: the optional full leather interior in Snap-fit platform style, with separate side panels (door rear, quarter & kick panel), console, steering wheel, column, dash with open gauges (like Revell’s SSR) two part seats,
- Body: with molded-in engine bay inner fenders and separate firewall, with very crisp window surrounds (ala ‘60’s Jo-Han promos), but no lettering or emblems, and designed without heavy molded in components that can cause sink marks, separate front and rear clip ( with enough inner overlapping so that there is an actual glue-ing surface) , separate bumpers, none chromed grille, with separate chrome headlamp buckets, chromed inner running lights?!, clear head lamps and tail lamp unit, also separate molded in color front turning signals (amber) and very fine side markers lights (red & amber, like Tamiya does) the location on the body would be marked with very tiny L shaped ridges (on the front fenders there will be a molded-in ’69 style side marker, which will be covered with the latter model unit), separate wind shield, backlite, and side windows also for the front doors (these parts should almost snap fit into place, without oversize locating pins.
The hood, would have a separately chrome molded air intake, and to end with separate chromed rocker panel moldings.
- Other: Heavy duty cooling package, radiator fits in separate front radiator wall that connects to the molded-in inner wheel wells of the engine bay, different color C-striping on the decal sheet.
3) Do you want to include optional parts? name them, and why?
- Drive train upgrades: non ram style air cleaner set up
- Body add-on’s: none
- Interior options: none
- Wheels & tires: 2 styles; aftermarket set up contemporary factory approved Dealer installed American Torque Thrusts, & modern wide and bigger rim footwear, to appeal both the young as those who remember the car when new.
- Decals: different engine call outs, so one make more variations possible, C-striping in different colors.
- Other: possible self adhesive metal transfers, if cost is within budget, otherwise the emblems will be provided in the form of decals
4) Are there alternative versions possible from that tool?, and if so, what parts can be used for both versions?
a) Alternative version 1: '69 AMX
- Chassis: complete carry-over from the ’70 kit
- Drive-train: complete carry-over from the ’70 kit, but now without the ram air. (yes I know the front suspension is a little different but who will notice, flame suit on ;^)
- Interior: everything new except the floor panel
- Body: different rocker panel moldings, front and rear clips (end panels), different bumpers (chromed and un-chromed), grille (chromed this time), clear turn signals, tail lamps, and hood.
- Other: self adhesive metal transfers, if cost is within budget, otherwise decals for all body markings to make it a ’69 model (aftermarket will come to the rescue with photo-etch for those who prefer that kinda extra bit of realness)
5) How do you want the packaging?
- Box art: a Muscle car means business so no photo of a parked car, but a red one in an action scene, like outracing a train (with all the disclaimers on the box that we do not endorse such behavior on public roads)
- Info on the box: photo of build model on the side flaps, but on the bottom print detailed photos of some of the features of the real deal.
- Box vs. parts layout: layout of the parts designed that they fit it the smallest box available, without endangering the contents from being squashed (shipping air is expensive and takes away value-able shelf space too.
- Packaging of the parts: glass, chrome, colored clear parts, packed separately in poly bags, and do the white plastic parts, decals covered with a protective paper.
6) The bean counters went all over your little project and it seems the kit you're proposing slightly exceeds the budget, luckily you are in the planning stadium, so what do you loose, and why?
This question is addressed in the choice of Decals or self adhesive metal transfers, as the means to create all the different body scripts and markings.