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Edward Gore

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Everything posted by Edward Gore

  1. Cleaning the tiny G43 parts was actually more challenging than painting them. I’ll touch up the ends that are under the tape with the outer strut color by horse hair. thanks for looking...
  2. The dark paint in the louvers added super realism.
  3. β€˜Glass’ part D6 didn’t fit because of part C22 at the arrow (see arrow) for clearance. I had to pull part C22 out then glued it back in after glueing in D6.
  4. @cifenet, Thanks! I was going to install the 8 wheels for the photo but forgot 😁
  5. Started cutting all of the sprue bits from the β€˜glass’ parts. There are a lot of them. Then sanding carefully with sanding boards. Then finally carefully painting the edges black. This will hopefully block the glass prism effect that would make it look toy and out of scale. This is just the dust from sanding the parts of all the sprue gates.
  6. Dry fitting the cabs for progress assessment before glass parts are installed. Also added a few more decals to the cabs.
  7. @cifenet @Bainford @JΓΌrgen M. Very kind words. Thank you so much for the compliments and for checking out my model build.
  8. Gluing in the hydraulic lines for the road wheel arm cylinders. A few decals set onto position. Thanks for looking in ...
  9. Working on the hydraulic fittings and hose. I'm making them from insulated solid wire so the road wheel arms can articulate and the hose will have the flex needed. The wire is removed from the flexing part then the insulation is reinserted onto the ends of the wire which will represent fittings and glue into the cylinders. The hydraulic cylinders are mounted with what looks like a giant bolt and washer fastener so I went shopping for Scale Hardware. This will also allow articulation of the road wheel arms with a strong fastener.
  10. Road wheel assembly. these are the wheels that will drive on pavement off of the railroad. Dry fitting I discovered that the road wheel arms need to be extended further so the drive cones on the traction wheels will make contact like the 1/1 prototype. Traction wheels are slid outboard (rearward) during rail operation and the road wheels are raised up. Then if driving on the paved road the road wheels are lowered and the traction wheels slide inboard (forward) so the drive cones make contact with the rear road wheels to drive.
  11. @gotnitro? Yes, I'm pleased with the color as well. Sponge method sounds, well sound. May try that next time. Thanks for commenting.
  12. Window weather stripping painted on the driver cab. Painting the brakeman's cab today. I'm doing this before I glue the glass in place.
  13. This was the only way I could figure out how to build and paint the cabs. Paint the insides first then build the cab subassemblies. Then mask from the inside to protect what I've already done inside so I can paint the outside. I still need to glue in all the glass, cleanly as well πŸ€”
  14. Very nice scratch build. I just figured out what the rims are made from πŸ‘πŸ’‘
  15. Hi @Scott Eriksen, Thanks for checking in! I'm still in to 1/35 armored stuff when I'm not building static stand alone rolling stock, sci-fi, figures, oddball kit-mash ups, oh yeah or cars and trucks 😁 Recently there are a lot of 1/35 kits from Academy, Amusing Hobby, Border Models, Miniart, Meng.... with full interior including engines, transmission, drive train, and driver compartments. A little pricy for those not interested in the 1/35 scale range starting at $50USD and up. My favorite builds of those kits are when they make them exploded view display builds πŸ‘πŸ’‘
  16. Thanks for the compliments. The dials and gauges are so tiny in 1/35 that I wanted to magnify them. Putting a sort of dome on each one did that I think. The weathering is actually accidental at this point in the build, Lol. Thank you for the compliment.
  17. Interior detail getting done. Kit decals installed upside-down, probably. They are so tiny. Creating gauge lenses with a drop of Kristal Klear.
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