Force

If Scott or someone else does a convincing E model I'm up for it. I may be nitpicking but I want it to look right, I'm sorry about that but that's how my mind works.

Now we're talking. It looks good, maybe the knobs for the brake valves could have been even a touch smaller but it's good enough and 200% better than the kit offerings, so good work...now to the printer. 😉😄 When it comes to the drivers side ash tray it's not a big deal as it's under the dash on the "dog house" and easy to scratch build if you want to. As for the K100E, I would be interested in whatever you decide to do, a front clip for an excisting cab you graft on or a complete cab, AMT or Revell AG doesn't matter as I have several of both. If you decide to do a complete cab the Revell AG kit it might be easier as the roof section on the Revell K100's is a separate piece so you can build either a flat top or Aerodyne depending on what kit you start with.

I believe the more angular grille came at the same time as the square headlights and it would look weird with square headlights and the more rounded grille from the C model. But as I said, I have seen someone quite recently who did the headlights and the parts where the headlights mount to, I don't remember where, probably on facebook somewhere...but you also need the more angular grille if you want to fake it...just my observation. One thing one could do is print a correct front section of the cab so one could be able to graft it on a K100C cab, because I believe the roof section is the same on the C and E and it's just the wind screens that are slanted 3 degrees more backwards and the front section under the wind screens is 4 inches further forward on the E compared to the C, and make the square stuff like the grille, horns and lights too, in that case we would get a more correct K100E. The side skirt above the front wheels are also at a different angle on the E compared to the C wich are more rounded. The reason for the setback front axle was to be able to mount longer leaf springs for a smoother ride, but that would not matter if someone did a correct cab as both versions were available on the E model.

I have seen somewhere that someone was doing just that but it takes more than the headlights to do a K100E, the whole front section of the cab is different as well as the grille wich is more angular than on the earlier K100's. The cab on the E model wich came 1984 is slightly longer as the windshields are laid back 3 degrees more than on the previous K100 models and the cab grew from 86 to 90 inches for the shorter single bunk cab and from 108 to 112 inches for the longer dual bunk cab, so the cab is 4 inches longer from front to back on an E model than the previous models while the roof lentgh is the same. So to do a correct K100E you have to do a complete cab, headlights and grille to get the right look as well as the side grab bars with steps wich are different from the earlier B and C models with separate aluminum steps, and the square horns, roof lights and turn signals. With that said it's not undoable but more work intensive.

I might give it a try. Do you have the personal version for private use?

I'm eager to see the results. I have saved a lot of references for the Aerodyne dash as I thought about scratchbuilding one and maybe have it replicated i resin, but with the 3D printing technique and CAD design it's probably less work and easier to rectify stuff, and I would have done it myself if I was able to work with CAD but I don't have a CAD program and don't know how to use it...I might have to get a course in CAD because I have lots and lots of ideas of things not available for both car and truck models. If you do the dash we can maybe persuade CTM to do a photo etch detail kit for it with gauge details and stuff because their stuff is great, but if nothing is available they don't seem to be interested. I will even provide references to them if they need them...all for the cause.

The kit allready has a Hendrickson walking beam suspension, AMT put a Hendrickson RTE extended leaf suspension on the W925 and K123 kits after they changed from the torsion bar suspension the kits had earlier, so it's not that different from the CTM Hedrickson RT suspension. The RTE may have been a smoother ride than the RT with the longer leaf springs and the RT was maybe a heavier spec suspension. With that said, the CTM suspension looks to be very nice and crisp and I look forward to see your progress.

You are welcone to them and I'll help out as much as I can as I have wished someone would do these dash panels for a long time, I don't know how to use a CAD program otherwise I would have done it myself. This also looks very nice, maybe some little tweaks here and there to get it even better. The step area at the left arrow looks to be a bit too deep and the angle of the upper panel are a bit too sharp as the upper and lower panels dont have the same angles, the base of the upper part should be closer to the upper edge of the lower part of these panels. The brake valve knobs at the right arrow could also be a bit smaller. Here is a picture showing the different angles of the panels the upper panel is slightly flatter than the lower panel and the step portion is not that deep. Also the left side on the upper part of the dash should be at an angle towards the panels with the gauges so the edge between the gauge panel and the side panels is straight, you can see it on the picture above but on the picture below it shows even better. This shows the same thing on an older Aerodyne dash panel with toggle switches instead of the squareish plastic ones on the picture above. There should also be an ash tray on the passenger side of the panel and there is one under the panel on the drivers side too, but these are not that hard to scratch build.

They look very nice, maybe a little tweak on the larger wheel because the 10 holes looks to be a bit too large and should be smaller, no larger than the hole size on the smaller wheel, otherwise they look good I don't have measures of a real box cover but I have a resin battery box that looks similar but not right as the step is longer and centered on this one and I took measures on that as it's the only thing I have. On the real box cover I sent pictures on earlier the step a bit shorter and off center as you can see if you compare them. Length: Hight: Width: Steps: The real one I sent picture of earlier the step is a bit shorter and off center so this is not right but I took measures of it anyway. Depth: This is for one side of the step on the box cover, the opposit side looks to be at least twice as wide or even more on the real box cover I sent pictures of earler and the step should be that much narrower. So you need two boxes to do one truck, one for each side as they are mirrored, the wider bit is at the front and the narrow bit is at the rear on both boxes, or the other way around if one prefer to do it that way. I hope this helps.

Nice. Sox & Martin had at least two Superbirds, one is the one you have relicated wich ran in Super Stock E and the other one ran in C Modified Production, I believe they were two different cars as one didn't have a vinyl top and the other had it. One thing is a bit confusing, Ronnies name was on the car allthough he didn't drive it in competition, it was driven by another S & M employee named Joe Fisher.

Well the tank is just a tank so you need a hydraulic pump, it's usually driven from a PTO on the transmission...PTO is Power Take Off...so you need a feed line to the pump and a high pressure line from the pump to the trailer, and a return line back to the tank. Something like this.

That would most likely work fine, some trimming is not that hard. It would be great if you could try to do the side step boxes, I have not figured out how I would do them if I would modify some kit ones, it's the diamond pattern that makes it challenging, I mean if they were smooth it would not be that big a deal. Another thing I have thought about is these steer wheels. They are also not available in kit form like this, yes there are split ring/lock ring 10 hole Alcoas in several AMT kits but they don't look right as there are a raised edge and portion where the lug nuts are that shouldn't be there on all of them, the wheels should have a smooth curve from the flat area where the lug nuts are going out to the edge of the rim where the lock rings are like on the pictures below. It would be nice to have two sizes to use for AMT 20 and 22 inch tires. Rears are not needed as kit wheels works just fine for that application. Here is another wheel style I'm looking for for AMT 20 and 22 inch tires. These are the right wheel if you want to do a correct Duel truck as the main "hero" truck has them on the steer axle in the movie, the rears on the truck are mix matched with 5 hole Budds and 5 hole Alcoas, and it has one drive axle and one tag axle on Page & Page 60/40 suspension.

Of course I do. Here is a couple where I have compared both, the yellow one is the Revell Germany dash and the white one is the AMT dash, they are slightly different but very similar in size. Speaking of Kenworth. I would like to see these battery box/tool box covers with the off center steps for the W900, drivers side and passenger side are mirrored and both fits on either side so you can sometimes see the step more towards the front and some have it more towards the rear. This to be able to do a correct replica of the Movin' On trucks from both seasons wich have these covers on all 4 trucks. The battery/tool box covers available with a step are the ones from the Revell Germany W900 like the recently reissued W900 Dump Truck, the the step in those are slightly wider and centered.

Yes that's it. The dash is most needed as you can see it through the windows of the cab, the sleeper panel not so much but I included it anyway. But as I said, both the AMT and the Revell Germany K100 Aerodyne kits needs this dash and I don't know if they are alike when it comes to size, I have not compared them. The Revell Germany I can kind of understand as both the K100 flat top and Aerodyne are from the same tooling with different roof sections, but as easy as it is to include a different roof it's as easy to include a correct dash at the same time, but AMT I don't since their K100 Aerodyne kit developed in the late 70's are not based on any other kit as it was all new and they should have had the correct dash. AMT did some work to more resemble the correct dash and you can see it on the gauge clusters wich are close but not correct as both sides should be the same width and be closer together, but they missed out on the center section with the switches. One thing that surprise me is that no one on the aftermarket has done anything about this before, these kits has been out since the early 80's and have allways had wrong dash panels.

I'm in with you on that request as both the AMT and Revell Germany Kenworth K100 Aerodyne kits has wrong dashes and I will get several for my K100 Aerodyne kits wich I have a bunch of if someone does the correct dash, it's about 10 AMT and Revell Germany K100 Aerodynes in the stash right now so I will get at least 10. I have lots of pictures on the Aerodyne dash, how many do you want? What's wrong with the kit dashes, well beginning in 1976 with the K100 VIT 200 Bicentennial Edition trucks got what they used what was later called the Aerodyne Cab for the first time, at the same time these VIT 200 Bicentennial K100 trucks got a different dash from the regular flat top K100's, and all K100 Aerodynes after that has that dash, some time later up to the K100E all K100's including the flat top cabs got that same dash. Here is a couple of pictures to show the differences. First the regular K100 flat top dash wich is in all available K100 kits including the Aerodyne and it's wrong for the Aerodyne. And here is how a correct Aerodyne dash should look. Vents Right side gauge cluster Left side gauge cluster Panel with switches Here is the control panel for the sleeper.

Either on top of the frame behind the cab or on one side of the frame rails if there is space for it. You might have to extend the frame some to get it to fit and as the Actros is only a 2 axle single drive Euro spec tractor I would consider making it a 3 axle single drive with a pull or push axle or a 3 axle dual drive as a dump truck will go off road.

It's not a Ford FE. The FE has no siamesed exhaust ports as they are quite evenly spaced and there are other tell tale differences on it compared to this engine. It's as Nobling says a Pontiac engine.

The 427 Mk II and IV had the Kar Kraft T-44 trans axle based on Top Loader parts.

Well if you mean the front engine mount used on early Dodge Red Ram Hemis and some poly head engines it's the same idea but not the same part.the old 50's engine mount is mounted under the water pump housing and is smaller. The engine mount on the 426 NASCAR Hemis the teams used from the mid 60's forward are mounted sandwiched between the water pump and engine block and is much beefier. Here is a couple of pictures of the old 50's engine mount. And here is the NASCAR engine mount.

You are right on the money there Victor. The N14 is available from Auslowe tho', I don't know exactly how accurate it is but it's the version vith the red aluminum valve covers. But I would for sure like to see upgrade kits for existing kit engines to do newer or more powerful versions like different aftercoolers, heads/valve covers and such. It occured to me that the Detroit Diesel 8V-71 and 8V-92 engines available to us have the low profile valve covers used on engines without Jake Brakes, because Jake Brake equipped Detroit engines had taller valve covers to make room for the Jakes wich sits on top of the valve train and these would be nice to have as I believe lots of trucks for highway use even back in the day had Jakes...maybe even a turbo kit for the Detroits would be nice to have. The Italeri kits really needs some upgrade parts, especially in the head area on the Cummins as all are the same except for induction systems, and it's pretty hard to convince anybody that a Cummins engine wich oviously is a NTC by the look of the heads/valve covers and tell them that it's a N14...naah that don't work if you know your engines. Engines like the C15 Cat, the X15 Cummins and the MP8 Mack/D13 Volvo are available on the aftermarket but they are too new for the most of the truck kits available to us, with that said I don't mind that they are made as you could re-power an older truck with a newer engine but more engine options for the era of truck kits that are available to us would be nice.

The MCG 55 Chevy set is designed for the Revell 55 Chevy but I have used it on a AMT kit and it works just fine, I had to modify the grille mesh slightly in the corners to make it fit tho'.

To clear things up, is it the Don Schumacher Racing developed canopy they introduced 2012 you are after or is it the shield over the top of the roll cage mandated 2005. I presumed it was the Schumacher canopy.

The front of the chassis on this kit is not correct for a Mopar Cup car from this era, by that time they used a fabricated front section with a special K-member to clear the dry sump oil pan and get the engine as low as possible, only the modified steering linkage goes under the oil pan. They also used a different engine mount than the OEM style.

Well it was a couple of years ago so the seller might not be on ebay right now.

I bought a resin body on ebay some time ago with the canopy and I bought it just for the canopy, I don't remeber from whom tho' The body is not completely current as the front wing is not a one piece in front of the nose cone like they have them today, it's two small wings mounted on the sides as they used to be in the past.