ScottH454

I also watch his casting videos. He uses one piece molds so there will be one side that will need sanded to fit an won't have finish detail. Plus he has recast other resin parts for sale and as for the turbos he sells I am pretty sure there cast from ones he bought from shapeway.

Found a listing for the separate engine on eBay. It does look like it is suppose to be the 417.

I have a gluebomb block like what Daddyfink posted that probably not saveable, but I thought that was just a simple attempt at a Kieth Black block. I am working on one of the Revell top fuel blocks that looks like a better start for a KB block. Still be nice if someone could share what was in the trojan mustang kit. I am doing resin engines so if I get help on kits with decent parts to start with I'd appreciate it.

Anyone have a picture of the engine block in the mustang kit? I have a engine from one of the full cage bigfoot trucks an was thinking it was suppose to be one of the Donovan blocks or suppose to be.

I needed the red oxide primer on my chassis an using actual primer was too thick. So I was told by a guy in the store with me as I looked for an alternative to mix model masters leather with red, I forget for sure but like 4:1. It looks pefect for the red oxide.

ha that is the other place i was talking about. 50ft min is $13 but the shipping is $15. But all this wire talk i still placed an order last night for 36 white an red n yellow 34.

Hey, so that is the cheapest an safest place I've bought from an there was also another site with finer wire that is higher price. I tried to look on your store but you host your photos on photobucket an that is just a joke, that site won't even let you view from their own site. From what I can tell the wire you have an that Kynar wire is more of a plastic translucent insulation. I already have a bunch of that an they look nothing like plug wires. If you want to contribute can you tell us where you get your wire from an or do you know where to get 34AWG colored insulated wire from? BTW my66s55 is right an my link sells 10' of 30AWG for $2.95 vs your 4' for $3.00. Just trying to help here guys as the OP was asking I too have seen a lot of bad wire jobs. Ok so I am posting a photo of my wired engine, this is 32AWG wire from the train site I linked to. Also plug boots are the heat shrink I got from them.

Here you go guys, take a look at what this site has to offer. The train hobbiest use some pretty small wire that we can use on our cars. An while your there grab the heat shrink tubing in a roll an that can be trimmed an heated on your wires for a tight fit plug boot. http://tcsdcc.com/Customer_Content/Products/Supplies/Wire/Wire.htm

Hey guys, wanted to bring this post back to write I have this as a set ready to sell. Find me through facebook page as action-modeler. Posting the photos an can't seem to crop them from my "smart" phone.

I watched a video from Dr Cranky's youtube where he made it using thin foam, think he used egg carton. Just press a straight edge against foam an it should leave a crease that you can pattern how you want. https://youtu.be/FtjpNmkubqg

I was just looking back through the 57 Gasser kit an they do give a dual carb manifold, along with the white one I pictured above Ace. I also found an old version of that part that looks more crisp if I where to use that to start from. I could definitely work on one if there is a need. They mentioned Hart's resin, but I didn't find theirs.

Ok I finally looked through my stash an found something to maybe work with. I happened to have that kit so I looked to match what was there an found a dual four barrel manifold. So is this a Y block manifold?

I used a gold like that on my Nova, it is a HOK premixed airbrush paint called Solar Gold. http://www.tcpglobal.com/HOK_FBC01-4Z.html

Here are some pictures of a BNL Chevy 502 engine block. My observations just on the block, listed an sold as a Chevy but has a Chrysler transmission mount. Seams they cut the backside of the Chrysler block off along with the trans mount an glued it to the back of this block so it has two steps/ ridges of the rear block. The bottom fill pint is 2mm to wide for a 1/25 oil pan including the supplied one. The rear to the front has a 1mm taper, at the bottom pour area that still would need sanded. The head mount area looks to have a 1mm head gasket/plate that doesn't fit the block at the sides.The front corner were the fuel pump goes is just a deep chunk out of it clear to the center of the head width. Well that is just looking at the BNL block MG. I have a standard BBC that I sell, so what are you after in a pro street engine?

Do you have any idea what could take so long? Trying to understand what could take so long. My resin has a 30 to 40 minute demold time, few hours to clean the pour points, an few minutes to bag them. What part of that is taking 10 weeks?

Thanks for sharing your photos Jon, helps me see what is being sold as typical.

I never heard of modelhaus before an never heard of them being the quality standard. Everything I look at online I have found flaws or an ignorant lack of quality. This is why I felt compelled to get into resin casting so people could see what was possible. So far I am not selling box stock parts but imagine at some point I would to build a catalog. These parts being direct copies are merely an offering to make them available without buying a whole kit. So if someone recast these there just bypassing the initial cost of the kit. As for what I am making the detail isn't gonna transfer to we'll an without the skills to make the same quality part in the first place the couldn't compare. All I can say is promote your product so people know who you are an what you have. Continue to release fresh new parts an you will have more to offer than "them". Now on that note I'm off to uses to ship two engine kits.

I have some thoughts an a question on this topic. I am watching a YouTube channel of a guy who openly admits to recasting a resin part an offering it for sale. Then on another channel the guy is recasting parts that are either discontinued or only wanted to buy one. My question is how many of these "originals" where made from scratch an how many started with copyrighted parts from the major model companies?

Unless your building a shagin wagon an are trying to reproduce the fur carpet of the 70'same you'll want to use the powder. Most any automotive carpet I know of is a short cut fiber even in 1:1 doesn't look fuzzy like flocking. Now after saying that I have two big containers of black an just picked up a small set with white at a goodwill for $1. Might at some point try messing with it again, like pressing it down into the glue when applying it so it doesn't stand up as much.

Another method to consider would be to dig out the chip with your razor then fill the hole with clear using a paint brush. How it'd be done for a real car so could work.

Here is one on ebay that has to be the highest yet $650, but look free shipping. http://www.ebay.com/itm/322439577569

Ha yeah that is how I start my parts, from original kit parts. I just finished my first engine complete top to bottom that I've been working on at nights since September. An as for money yes it does get pricey spending $30 on a kit just for a detailed timing chain cover to work with. I do wonder about recasting box stock parts an hope to avoid doing so myself. So far only my oil filters are box stock. As long as we don't make a direct part for part kit we only help as the consumer has to buy a full kit to put our parts into.

I almost started doing that, then it occurred to me that it could be erased pretty easy. We see in this guys case he doesn't even bother to hide the part numbers. I think the only way is to educate people so they know where to get the original. An as Dannyi wrote there poor quality should take care of them.

On this same topic I have been after some sticks, the round ones that come to a point. The ones I found at Hobby Lobby are coated plastic an so the grit comes off pretty quick. So would you guys know if they make a round sanding stick that is made of the grit? That way it could be sharpened or something like that. I'm thinking there might be something like a mechanical eraser with fine grit. Thanks

I have something that should work in the pressure pot as I post. It'll just be the helmet for now, but I have an idea what air cleaner could go with it. I could send you a couple for $3 to cover the shipping.