ScottH454

I was just watching an eBay listing of one myself. Thought it showed $3 on the package but heck I'd got to $10 just to have one. Well that single stencil went for $30 so no I didn't get one. I will see if my wife's Cricuit machine can't cut lettering that small on stencil material. https://ebay.us/h6SJe1

I have a couple sets I gathered while looking for the "best". To me that means what has the sharpest lines an best detail like lug nuts. The set in black came from the MPC Mowtown Missle Cuda an are the top in my collection. These other two I can't tell for sure but think the blacken set came from a molded in green 37ish Chevy with a separate roof. All these are on my list to cast in resin so nothing I have to offer at the moment. I also will cast the '41 Willys kit ones for a build I'm doing.

They posted to there Facebook page earlier this month stating they have been moving an hope to be back in February. A simple store notice would have saved them all the damage there causing. You can also find resin parts at action-modeler.com. There are plenty of casters out there to pick up the slack. If you want something bnl has that I don't ask, most everything starts from a plastic kit.

With something like that I would drill into the hole then take stryene rod of the matching size inserted into hole with gap fill super glue. Then your not so much trying to sand the shape but might be able to cut or scrape your lines in.Heck you could even shave the whole line down an buy the right size styrene strip to replace it. I am a caster so what I have the ability to do is take my leftover resin after pouring an use a toothpick to dab resin into the hole.

I made a 426 Hemi from what I found to be the best starting point in the Revell '68 Dodge Dart Hemi 2'n1 Model Kit Special Edition. I have the base engine listed on eBay, search for Resin Hemi "426" Engine. I have more I'm working on but so far that is whats ready. Why is there so many people posting that how do I search post? This is a message board, without questions it wouldn't be here. Sorry about the oversized picture, but everything but the fan belt an carbs are resin I offer. This is the thread you want, I had this bookmarked since it wasn't a sticky thread. They would save a lot of drama if they replaced that crate motor roundup thread with this one. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/81741-engine-sources/

I wish I had something for you but I don't specifically. I can tell your not the first to ask so you'll likely find something if you do a search. Another great place is YouTube where you can see how they're doing it. I am "action-modeler" on Facebook and YouTube an you can search for tips there. Oh an they need to be clean an worth the effort so at the least dechrome them an remove the yellow goo.

Hobby Lobby in the leather craft section. Sold in set of three 5x7 sheets. It is a very thin leather so it works better for modelers than regular cow leather. https://www.hobbylobby.com/Crafts-Hobbies/Leather-Crafting/Leather-Pieces/Goatskin-Trim/p/80780195

Then it would depend on how you saw plastic, Steve. I for one would rather make the cut once. Trying to refine the windshield side after is cut will be harder. I had to make three cuts to chop that beetle roof with fragile pillars and that that's a IMC kit with open doors. If he holds the center portion as he cuts there won't be any stress.

Got a chance to use my wife's cricut maker for bomber seat pads. Took a few tries to narrow down the cutting template but once there I filled a 5 x 7 sheet of goatskin leather. This destroyed her cutting mat so add that to the cost of doing these seat pads.

Get yourself a straight saw so it will have a good chance of being straight. Plus tape lines can be helpful guidelines.

From what I could see in your latest picture your on the right track for how it's done. You still needed so smooth out the runners an other seems. Drill holes in the runners to slide rod polystyrene up from the bottom to create bolt tabs. I even drill into these to give the open bolt hole. Just find reference photos an mimic as much as you can. I use liquid Tamiya primer brushed over the seams to fill imperfections, never want to prime the whole thing at that point. Once everything looks ready then a light coat of Tamiya primer gives it a uniform an in this case a textured cast finish. I'll share a photo of my BBC intake master, the kit intake I started with is light gray so you should be able to see the white styrene that was added. Then a blower intake master I made for with two resin castings. One of the benefits of being a caster is making parts for the sole purpose of having an extra so you don't mess up your original.

What are you needing advice on? It is a good idea to make resin copies with the amount of work your putting into this part. That in my opinion is why we cast parts. My tip from reading your last post is make sure who you get to cast this part is good at what they do. You can find action-modeler on facebook to see my experience.

No IMC are not separate. They almost where removed on my chopped beetle project.

Run the poll again, you first poll was with two 468 x 60 banners that people where okay with. Since then you have made them bigger are more of them. I have owned a website for over ten years with at least 6 domains, granted I don't have the traffic but definitely does not cost more than $150 a year. Other forums find other ways to generate money, try shirts(printful.com) or a calendar with cars from the under glass forum. I included a screenshot that resulted in this post. I have a 1920x1080 resolution monitor that was full of ad. Just find someone other than the guy running the magazine to do calendars.

So was it like the one pictured? I'd make a mold of a collection of caps so if there where different variants let me know what to look for. Also while we are on the topic if I where to package this cap how would you like to buy them? Would you buy these in a two pack, 2 pack with 6" of plug wire? I make a lot of smaller parts that seem to small to bag an price at $3.

Looks simple enough for a paint mask template. There was someone making them for flames but is hard to find them. If you can get the stripe drawn out on paper or paint program have somebody with a cricut cutter make you a template. I've wanted to try it but didn't find the thin paper.

I have this one with a bracket. I am not using them in my engine kit because the bracket mounts in the middle of the alternator. I think the full scale mount on the front.

Can you show us a decent picture of the seat your starting with? I have done a few factory seats.

Then part in the first photo I posted is from 1998 'Chill Factor' Oldsmobile Pro Stock, the second is from a Johan engine kit off eBay. The Johan one looks like it would be too big. The first one is more accurate to what your looking for with the exception being the coil wire out the front but that would be drilling a hole. I'm making molds so I'll give this little guy a shot, but those plug boots are tiny.

I really don't think you'll find any caster doing one of those with it being so small. The 3D print option would likely get you a nice one but I bet would be pretty fragile. I was just looking at one thinking I should cast one but I don't have anything ready. I went an looked for one to show people what your asking about. I have another version with a coil wire coming out the front too. Google his file name to find the video.

Ok I found the stuff I was looking for as reference to the hardness. Micro-Mark sold a material specifically for tires an they used 40a hardness. Even that stuff needed to be colored black so might be stuck with that. TCR-40 Tire Casting Rubber

I tried the ReoFlex 40 an would say that'd be on the softer side still. I remember some real soft tires in the Revell hot rod 55 chevy that RF40 feels like. You would also have to dye this stuff black an that could cuase problems with mixing an consistency. I have since gone with Task 14 that is already black but is like the hard rubber tires. If I where to go after a softer tire now I would still get the RF40 but add black dye to the container until the tires are a happy black. Trying to mix as you go each tire sucks.

No blockers that I bother with. I do know that I've had malicious popups load with google ads or with what ever eBay uses, nothing here. You want annoying add sites look at local tv news stations or some of those click bait websites. Question, is this forum independent of the website and/or the magazine? Bet you could have your own magazine with content from posts. Might be something to consider, even if a digital pdf version with paid ads if need be.

Yeah he is a member and should have some posts with pictures of his work. Ken Kitchen profile shows August 8 as last visit.

My thoughts would be painting a beige base paint that is allowed to dry. Then with a wetter coat of dark brown on top brush the paint with a fine-tooth comb. Seen videos of this technique for imitating wood grain on full-scale cars. https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=painting+woodgrain