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Thanks for the help Buffs fan and Mike999

Another dumb question can you use clerar coat overtop of the chrome???   

 

One advantage of reading a thread totally through from start to finish is that you don't ask questions that have already been covered. I direct you to Zoom Zoom's post on page one of this thread for your answer.

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Reasonable question on clear coating. First time Ive see a clear that won't mess up chrome.

Guess it was too much work for for last poster to quote Zoom Zooms response.

here it is.

 tested it and overcoated with Aclad Aqua Gloss clear, specifically offered as a sealer for Aclad chrome where it won't kill the reflective effect. It seems to work very well, it barely affects reflectivity, unlike any clear I previously tried (including Future).

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  • 2 months later...

Yesterday I tried for the first time the use of these pens through the airbrush and the results are incredible. In the airbruah cup, it actually looked like a melted chrome bar...As in a YouTube video of a Chinese modeler, I just added a little bit of 90% alcohol and shooted it under the hot sun of my Puerto Rico...It turned out great and cleaning for my surprise was more easy than with paint...

Simón P. Rivera Torres

 

 

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Edited by simonr
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  • 2 months later...

I bought a 1 mm pen recently and used it today.  It did the trim rings on the wheels of a 1/32 1940 Ford, the windshield trim, wipers, and the chrome trim on the Ford hood, and ran dry when I was doing the chrome spokes on a 1963 Corvette knockoff wheel, the first of four.  Or at least won't flow.  Eh?  That seems like awfully little use to run the thing dry.  Any idea how much use I should expect before the tank runs dry?

Thanks, folks.

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I bought a 1 mm pen recently and used it today.  It did the trim rings on the wheels of a 1/32 1940 Ford, the windshield trim, wipers, and the chrome trim on the Ford hood, and ran dry when I was doing the chrome spokes on a 1963 Corvette knockoff wheel, the first of four.  Or at least won't flow.  Eh?  That seems like awfully little use to run the thing dry.  Any idea how much use I should expect before the tank runs dry?

Thanks, folks.

The three different size pens I bought months ago, are still working fine. It sounds like you got a defective pen. I used mine quite a bit. And they haven't run out yet.

Edited by unclescott58
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I have a question about clear coating over Molotow Chrome. My plan is to airbrush Molotow to the bumpers of my '78 Malibu and '60 Fury resin kit. Zoom Zoom said that Alclad Aqua Gloss Clear will work fine without ruining the chrome effect, but has anyone tried Alclad's Klear Kote Gloss for this? Does it work too or do I have to find a bottle of that Aqua Gloss Clear from somewhere (It seems that finding it in Finland might be a bit tricky)...

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Niko... why not apply the Molotow after clear coating? It's tough enough not to need a protective layer, if you let it dry throughly for 24 hours or so. And you'll be spraying it onto a smooth surface.

best,

M.

Well if that's the case and the Molotow doesn't rub off after a bit of handling then I have no problem. I was just thinking about clear coating as someone else said that Molotow will rub off easily, but if it can take a bit of handling then I don't need any clear on it...:P

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  • 2 weeks later...

I recently got myself a 2mm mlowtow pen and I was using it today and realized that there was chrome leaking through the threaded on refill cap has anyone had this happen before?   

 

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Edited by 426 pack
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I bought the 2mm pen. And right away, it flowed way to much. Just touch it to something and the ink poured out. And now I notice that mine has started to leak, like yours. I store it, tip up and that helps.

Im thinking I may empty the 2mm pen and spray it. I have a 1mm pen, that one, so far, is much better

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I bought the 2mm pen. And right away, it flowed way to much. Just touch it to something and the ink poured out. And now I notice that mine has started to leak, like yours. I store it, tip up and that helps.

Im thinking I may empty the 2mm pen and spray it. I have a 1mm pen, that one, so far, is much better

I store mine tip up to and it still leaks I think it has something to do with the cap when I take it of it twists the threads and opens it a bit. I'm going to try to tape mine shut so it can't happen and if that doesn't work I will dump it in a small paint jar and use a brush to apply it. 

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  • 4 weeks later...

What's a good size for windscreen and backlite trim on a 1/25 scale kit ? It would seem that the 1 millimetre is ostensibly the best choice (?) 

Do the pens themselves come with ink (paint ?) in them already ? Separate cartridge with purchase ? 

Would love to buy one-each of all of the sizes , but I'm a financially-poor Blue Collar meathead who's trying to make it in California (where one has to be a millionaire to "get-by") .

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35 minutes ago, Dodge Driver said:

The pens come ready to use, John. The ink is already in them. I have a 1mm tip pen. With practice, I did some lug nuts on a 1/24 scale wheel.

Nice ! I think that once I get myself some reading glasses , I'll be able to go back to real detailling . 

Is the 1 millimetre too small for window trim ?

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15 minutes ago, 1972coronet said:

 

Is the 1 millimetre too small for window trim ?

I just did a quick test on a Jo-Han '73 Torino's windshield trim. the trim is about 1/32 inch wide. With the 1mm tip, it took two passes to get the trim covered. It looked passable, but a wider tip would go faster and reduce the need for overlapping strokes.

Merry Christmas, BTW :)

Edited by Dodge Driver
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