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Posted

I kinda found out late that it had been released. I watched a youtube review and the guy mentioned how it was packaged, and I thought nnnoooo they will be fine. So I went searching for the kit before work, and went to Hobby Lobby, no such luck. So I thought what the heck, I work 7 days a week, and if I don't open the store right at 10, oh well. I went to the closest hobby shop , thinking they open at 10, arrived woohoo changed their time to 9:30, Thank you Colpar Hobbies. Got to work on time, took care of doing what I had to do, and opened the kit. Bummer the pillars were bent, and the windshield frame was broken right in the middle. I emailed Revell, using their online form, 4-6 weeks. I Like to blame the Chinese for this. And I'll ask a question just to get your opinion. Have we taken a giant step backwords with having metal axles in both the front and back of the kits?

Posted

I kinda found out late that it had been released. I watched a youtube review and the guy mentioned how it was packaged, and I thought nnnoooo they will be fine. So I went searching for the kit before work, and went to Hobby Lobby, no such luck. So I thought what the heck, I work 7 days a week, and if I don't open the store right at 10, oh well. I went to the closest hobby shop , thinking they open at 10, arrived woohoo changed their time to 9:30, Thank you Colpar Hobbies. Got to work on time, took care of doing what I had to do, and opened the kit. Bummer the pillars were bent, and the windshield frame was broken right in the middle. I emailed Revell, using their online form, 4-6 weeks. I Like to blame the Chinese for this. And I'll ask a question just to get your opinion. Have we taken a giant step backwords with having metal axles in both the front and back of the kits?

I was lucky as my A-pillars were not bent, and I really don't mind the metal axles at all. When I finish my model and put it on the display table at our club meeting or in my display case, no one can see the metal axles, so what's the beef?

Posted

Metal axles should not be a deal breaker. If they bother the builder, Dremel cut them into left and right stubs, like some Japanese kits do. Model builders improvise.

Posted

Metal axles should not be a deal breaker. If they bother the builder, Dremel cut them into left and right stubs, like some Japanese kits do. Model builders improvise.

EXACTLY

Posted

The Foose FD-100 pickup has metal axles too.  The front axle goes right through the engine.  Sucks!

The hole goes between the block and the separate sump and is quite easy to fill.  Not like the bad ol' days of the sixties.

Posted

after seeing more and more on this one, it's just too modified for what I like to build today.  I was initially excited, but that has passed.  and I shall pass on it as well.  BUT... I do look forward to seeing what others make of this kit.  It is beautiful, just not something I want to build.  Give me a stock version though.... even with all the other modern amenities and I might buy in then... hmmm would those wheels fit my Caddy lowrider though????  lol  And the engine.... protouring?  I gotta stop thinking about all that...

Posted

after seeing more and more on this one, it's just too modified for what I like to build today.  I was initially excited, but that has passed.  and I shall pass on it as well.  BUT... I do look forward to seeing what others make of this kit.  It is beautiful, just not something I want to build.  Give me a stock version though.... even with all the other modern amenities and I might buy in then... hmmm would those wheels fit my Caddy lowrider though????  lol  And the engine.... protouring?  I gotta stop thinking about all that...

So. After perusing the kit, reading the comments and staring at the body for a while, here's my plans for the kit.

Caddy engine and wide whites + sombreros from the Revell '49 Merc. 

Of the custom changes to the body, the swept back windshield and roof are the most unsightly. However they do bring to mind the roofline of the '53 Stude Starliner. So I'm gonna do some measuring and see if the Stude roof is a good donor. In my minds eye it seems a good option that will make this custom a bit less modern, yet keep the overall look of the car intact.

Posted (edited)

The "A" posts in my kit also were bent down, the body being crammed into the box on it's left side with the posts against the box side. I bent the posts upward without problem. What I notice is that there's a small overhang of the roof over the windshield header- way too small to be an external visor but big enough to look awkward.

That awkward ( to me) color combo of blue body, white roof, and tan/ white interior should be changed. I'm thinking darker blue metallic( TS-64) with a dark silver/gray roof and blue and gray interior trim. Or maybe a body in a shade of tan/beige, or a pale yellow, and a tan/ beige, or pale yellow, and blue interior.

 

Edited by ZTony8
Posted

The "A" posts in my kit also were bent down, the body being crammed into the box on it's left side with the posts against the box side. I bent the posts upward without problem. What I notice is that there's a small overhang of the roof over the windshield header- way too small to be an external visor but big enough to look awkward.

That awkward ( to me) color combo of blue body, white roof, and tan/ white interior should be changed. I'm thinking darker blue metallic( TS-64) with a dark silver/gray roof and blue and gray interior trim. Or maybe a body in a shade of tan/beige, or a pale yellow, and a tan/ beige, or pale yellow, and blue interior.

 

Your A pillars sound like they're still slightly bent, as on mine the overhang of the roof doesn't seem to look awkward at all.

Posted

Got mine yesterday, the same packaging problem everyone else is having. The body is in the box with the delicate Windshield Post against the side of the box. I think that even with normal handling the frame will get broken just as mine is. Mine is broken right in the middle of the top peace. Time to contact Revell.  

Posted

On my kits, both had windshield pillar issues.  The first one had the driver's side pillar pretty well bent backwards; not sure if it can be returned to original intent with just bending.  The other body had the passenger side A-pillar moderatelybbent back, but that one I could return to original condition with a minute or so of gentle persuasion.     TIM

Posted

Revellogram really needs to get out front of this. Most of these kits will not be sold to people who read these forums. So, many model builders are going to be very unhappy when they open this new kit, and find damage. I really like Revell's new kits, and have bought several. But the shoddy QC is no longer something that can be brushed aside. The Dodge Ramcharger body problems, the wrong body in the recent Black Widow Re-issue, and now this. It has become a pattern. This has now morphed into a genuine problem. There has been a breakdown in the packing/shipping process. I hope hope Revell starts to respond to this and publicly acknowledge, and rectify the problem. It would really help reassure the broad model buying public that the issue has been solved.

Posted (edited)

I guess my beef with the metal axles is, don't get me wrong, they work great on the rear end, I just got to liking the rivets Revell used on the front of some of their kits. Its just me,  I know their there..

Edited by Bert
Posted

I used some warm water and gentle pressure to get the A pillars back in position.  The roof was slightly warped at the bottom edge of the rear window also. 

As Tim stated, the front tires are a bit loose on the whitewall insert. I also noticed they were cut slightly off center, ala Rat Roadster. 

 

I sanded the the details off of the body, trunk, hood, and roof, for a smooth body. 

image.jpeg

Posted

Just came back from picking this up, I can report the A-pillars on mine are prefect and the glass stood intact as well. The roof/top is slightly warped near the front but nothing a bit of bending will fix.

Posted

Mine has been bumped to maybe number three in line. I've got the Pinball Punk and the 1/20 AMX in front of it. I have glued the engine halves together.

Posted

I'm wondering (without) having the plastic in front of me) what would be the best way to eliminate the roof overhang and make it a smooth transition from roof to windshield. Can the roof be simply moved back or will it require some plastic removed from the length of the roof?

Posted

I'm wondering (without) having the plastic in front of me) what would be the best way to eliminate the roof overhang and make it a smooth transition from roof to windshield. Can the roof be simply moved back or will it require some plastic removed from the length of the roof?

I was wondering what it would take to make that top look like a Carson Padded Top, maybe use the wide whites and Caddy caps from the Merc kit on it!

I used some warm water and gentle pressure to get the A pillars back in position.  The roof was slightly warped at the bottom edge of the rear window also. 

As Tim stated, the front tires are a bit loose on the whitewall insert. I also noticed they were cut slightly off center, ala Rat Roadster. 

 

I sanded the the details off of the body, trunk, hood, and roof, for a smooth body. 

image.jpeg

Is that an Integy board under the body?

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