Bernard Kron Posted July 20, 2020 Share Posted July 20, 2020 (edited) Builder’s block. I’m sure it happens to all of us; some, of course, more severe than others. In my case I like to be working on a model car project pretty much throughout the year with little interruption. Some projects take longer than others but I generally have something going. But since May 21st I’ve been pretty much dead in the water. This is not unknown to me, but it’s quite rare. I started a couple of things which turned out to be more like paint experiments than actual modeling projects. Then about five days ago I finally got past it. I decided I would do a simple build to get things moving and then tackle something more adventurous next. This is the simple one, a Monogram ’37 Ford Sedan street rod. First released in 1987 it’s a real period piece – a classic billet rod with independent suspension front and rear and Boyd-style billet wheels and billet details under the hood and all over the interior. With the Traditional Rod revival of the past several years building this slantback out-of-the-box would be a real throwback – and frankly not to my taste. For this reason this kit sat in my stash for many years. A strange choice to cure a case of builder’s block… Regardless, I started in on it less than a week ago. One thing about this early release version is that it’s molded in genuine Monogram Bleed-Through Orange Plastic. So the first order of business was to get that stuff sealed off. I thought some Duplicolor Primer Sealer would do the trick (it usually does) but this plastic dye is so strong it went right through it. After a session in the Purple Pond I used my old reliable combo: generic Duplicolor Metallic Silver Acrylic Lacquer over the aforementioned primer sealer (the cheap stuff in the tall can – but it sets up and lays down beautifully). Mission accomplished. I’m going for a real late 50’s street machine kind of look. So the color I’ve chosen is actually Tamiya AS-5 Light Blue Luftwaffe, a military color of all things. But it gives the car a tough, utilitarian performance look, particularly with the Modelhaus T-120 wide whites I’m using. The sub-text of this project is to use as many surplus bits from my stash as are appropriate to the final result. The kit itself fits that description, as it’s unlikely I’ll build another one. The red-painted steelie wheels and T-120 tires are .from a still-born Revell/AMT ’40 Ford Sedan hybrid I started at least 10 years ago. The rolling stock was glued to Revell ’40 Ford Street Rod front and rear axles and it’s doubtful I could ever remove them without destroying the axles. So the whole wheel/axle set was adapted to the Monogram chassis. This has gotten rid of the billet-era independent suspension, as well as lowering the stance a bit. The interior is kit stock except for deleting the headrests and the stereo speakers on the package shelf. I’ll replace the billet era steering wheel with something 50’s-appropriate. In keeping with the WWII German paint theme (unconscious, I assure you) the main interior color is Testors Acryl Panzer Interior Beige with Folk Art craft paint Teddy Bear Tan accents, The trim details will get picked out in Molotow Chrome, Other than the suspension and wheels and tires, most of the build will come from the Monogram kit, modified as needed to de-billet-ate it. Below are some pictures of the work so far, showing the original Bleed-Through Orange styrene, the suspension work, the interior bits, wheels and tires (the wheels will get Moon caps) and chassis and the overall look in the light blue. The dull semi-gloss patina of the military paint makes it look like it’s in tinted primer, a popular look in the 50’s. It’s likely I’ll keep it but I might go with a clear gloss. I might even give it a pearlescent finish. I’m doing some paint trials to determine what I choose. But other than the lowered stance, the rolled pans and deleted bumpers, and the Moon caps, it will be pretty stock. As I said – a simple project. It shouldn’t take long to do, and hopefully get the juices flowing again. Thanx for lookin’, B. Edited July 20, 2020 by Bernard Kron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CabDriver Posted July 20, 2020 Share Posted July 20, 2020 I love it! Great looking build - you did a good job de-billet-ating it! ?. Nice color choice too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan barton Posted July 20, 2020 Share Posted July 20, 2020 I have similar intentions for this kit myself! I have quite a few spare ones in the stash and my first one was done when the kit first came up so it is very billetated! Right down to being Tamiya pastel pink with ZZTop graphics! You might say it is "Oh billeterated"! Groooooooaaaaan! This is looking good already. Another simple solution for the nineties chassis ( which is a lovely piece in its own right) is to swap in the Monogram 40 Ford pickup chassis. It drops in like it was made for it. And as I swapped the 37 sedan chassis into the Revell 37 Panel delivery with no dramas, I'm guessing that the stock and nicely detailed frame from the pickup or panel will also drop into the Tudor. Still, I like your approach of using up stuff in your stash. And the purists will go nuts but, with the small block being buried so deep inside those fat fenders, you could drop on a pair of Y block rocker covers and exhaust manifolds from a 56 or 57 Ford kit and most people would never spot the deception! Cheers Alan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spottedlaurel Posted July 20, 2020 Share Posted July 20, 2020 I really like what you're doing with this one, and your write-up made for excellent breakfast reading. Only last weekend I reassembled the one I built in the early '90s - it was probably down to my lack of experience at building rods which are assembled from a number of panels, but I struggled with getting everything to fit well around the front end. I should have paid more attention to how tightly the bodyshell fitted onto the floorpan. It looks like you've successfully achieved that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modlbldr Posted July 20, 2020 Share Posted July 20, 2020 Very nice looking work you're doing on this. I have this kit and have wanted to find a way to delete the bullet from it also. I appreciate your information. As to the AS-5 paint you are using, it is perfect. If you did want a pearlescent finish, I suggest a light coat of Testors White Lightning. It is the exact paint combo I used on my 57 Ford wagon. It has a nice way of "pearlizing" the flat finish. Although I do like the flat finish on your build. I look forward to seeing how your build turns out. Later- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randyc Posted July 21, 2020 Share Posted July 21, 2020 Really liking this idea. Will keep watching to see where it goes from here. I get ideas like this and then can never find the parts I know I have to do it. I"m too disorganized after several moves and a divorce to find anything much when I want to. My own fault, no excuses. Good luck on this one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Macleod Posted July 21, 2020 Share Posted July 21, 2020 On 7/20/2020 at 7:14 AM, Modlbldr said: Very nice looking work you're doing on this. I have this kit and have wanted to find a way to delete the bullet from it also. I appreciate your information. As to the AS-5 paint you are using, it is perfect. If you did want a pearlescent finish, I suggest a light coat of Testors White Lightning. It is the exact paint combo I used on my 57 Ford wagon. It has a nice way of "pearlizing" the flat finish. Although I do like the flat finish on your build. I look forward to seeing how your build turns out. Later- That is a really neat Ford wagon! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Macleod Posted July 21, 2020 Share Posted July 21, 2020 I really like where the OP is going with this model. I have always liked '37 and '38 Fords. While I am a stock builder much of the time, I can't help wondering if this kit could be adapted to a factory stock model. Maybe someday...I will continue to watch this with interest! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis Lacy Posted July 23, 2020 Share Posted July 23, 2020 Off to a great start, B. This kit was a milestone in street rod kits when it debuted in 1987 and very up to date as far as what was going on in the full scale world. I bet at that time nobody saw the traditional movement coming back as strong as it did! Those seats look worlds better with the giant head rests removed! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bernard Kron Posted July 28, 2020 Author Share Posted July 28, 2020 Thanks everyone. I'm glad you all are enjoying this. This is really a minor update since the basic de-Billet-ing of the chassis was done on my previous post. This is the assembly of the motor and chassis. The motor is the kit Small Block Chevy with a simple back-dating of the carburetion to the Corvette 283 dual 4-barrel, a dealership parts counter hop up popular in the early years of the SBC. Manifold, carbs and air cleaners are all from a Revell Parts Pack 283. The pre-wired distributor is from Morgan Automotive Detail. The kit exhaust system was re-routed slightly to fit the reworked rear suspension. The rear suspension locating arms are from the Revell ’40 Ford street rod kit that contributed the rear suspension and axle. I’m actually further along than the picture below would indicate. I’m ready for final assembly with the window and hood side trim foiled, the interior done, etc. I’ve always liked how these pre-Revell Monogram kits are designed. They’re engineered for straightforward no-dramas assembly with lots of nice detail. This one is no exception. My next update will be final one before I post the completed project. Thanks for lookin’, B. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan barton Posted July 28, 2020 Share Posted July 28, 2020 That chassis would like nice sitting in a workshop diorama exactly as it stands now! Cheers Alan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobthehobbyguy Posted July 29, 2020 Share Posted July 29, 2020 Nice work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bernard Kron Posted August 2, 2020 Author Share Posted August 2, 2020 Thanks guys! This the final update. The project is essentially done although I still have to glue the chassis to the body. Below is a final summary showing the stance, the Moon discs from Parts By Parks, and all the detail that was added, either by foiling from the kit parts. The engine bay is complete and trimmed in white to contrast with the exterior paint. The tail lights are from an AMT ’36 Ford kit. Pretty much your classic late 50’s hop-up from just after the Chevy small block swept the Ford flathead from the scene. I’ll take final “beauty shots” and post the complete model tomorrow. Thanx to all who followed along, B. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southern Fried Posted August 3, 2020 Share Posted August 3, 2020 Nice direction. Like you, I've had this kit several times, but never built it. The billet was my turn-off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Most Posted August 3, 2020 Share Posted August 3, 2020 On 7/20/2020 at 1:08 AM, alan barton said: And the purists will go nuts but, with the small block being buried so deep inside those fat fenders, you could drop on a pair of Y block rocker covers and exhaust manifolds from a 56 or 57 Ford kit and most people would never spot the deception! Cheers Alan And don't forget to slant the distributor too. ? This is the finest fat fender street rod kit out there, but it's nice to see one being "backdated" in such a fashion. I'm taking notes... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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