Matt Bacon Posted March 14, 2021 Share Posted March 14, 2021 I'm not going to document this one in the same depth as the Silver Ghost (which is probably a relief), because I think there'll be more along any minute... The journey of 1000 miles etc... the first part the instructions would have you build is the pedal box. Rear wheel hubs. I've flipped the outer disc face, because as moulded it is deeply grooved, unlike any real functional brake. Humbrol Metalcote Steel makes for a convincing finish, though. See those anti-roll links coming out at the right hand side above? Don't fit them at this stage, or if you do, tape them into an out-of-the-way position. You will break them off wrestling with the rest of construction later if you don't. I know this... Those front brake cooling ducts were a complete swine to get into place... the vinyl seems very flexible, but isn't when it comes to the crunch! best, M. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cobraman Posted March 14, 2021 Share Posted March 14, 2021 Very interested in watching this one come together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deuces ll Posted March 15, 2021 Share Posted March 15, 2021 Wow... Nice detail!... 🙂👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteski Posted March 15, 2021 Share Posted March 15, 2021 You're making good progress Matt. But I also find that there is something odd about this model, or the way its parts are made. They all seem to have overly sharp edges. Most 1:1 cast or forged parts have softer, rounded edges. Those seem to also look out of olace (because they are). Please understand that I'm not criticizing your work - it is the kits parts themselves that seem strange. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Len Woodruff Posted March 15, 2021 Share Posted March 15, 2021 Kool build to follow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dann Tier Posted March 15, 2021 Share Posted March 15, 2021 This is gonna be GREAT to follow!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Bacon Posted March 17, 2021 Author Share Posted March 17, 2021 Thanks, guys. It's an interesting kit, which is clearly designed to be assembled without any glue and minimum paint if you choose. I guess the pre-painted one doesn't even need the latter! All the parts are made from a variety of different grades of ABS, running the gamut from very crisp and glueable via tough and resilient to rubbery and rather flexible. I think the fact that a lot of the suspension parts are the resilient stuff is one of the reasons why screws are used to give strong joints. I don't think the tougher grades of ABS respond well to styrene cement. The dash is only six parts and some decals, but cleverly done to give chrome switches and instrument bezels with minimum effort. BTW, if anyone knows where to find any interior pictures of the Ken Miles car either in period or in the Shelby collection please point me at them! All I can find is a video of a couple of guys standing around the car and talking, with very little visible of any modelling reference use at all! I'd particularly like to know if all those switches were labelled at the 66 Le Mans race, because they seem to be in most restored or currently-raced cars, bu I can't find any evidence in period either way, still less what they actually control from left to right on that car (there seems to be no "standard" configuration in extant examples). This is the initial build up of the chassis completed, which means it's time for... ...work to begin on the engine. Again, no glue so far, and just a couple of screws holding the heads onto the block. If you paint anything on this kit, especially with primer, you need to mask or scrape clean the mounting pins and sockets. best, M. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vamach1 Posted March 17, 2021 Share Posted March 17, 2021 17 minutes ago, Matt Bacon said: Thanks, guys. It's an interesting kit, which is clearly designed to be assembled without any glue and minimum paint if you choose. I guess the pre-painted one doesn't even need the latter! All the parts are made from a variety of different grades of ABS, running the gamut from very crisp and glueable via tough and resilient to rubbery and rather flexible. I think the fact that a lot of the suspension parts are the resilient stuff is one of the reasons why screws are used to give strong joints. I don't think the tougher grades of ABS respond well to styrene cement. The dash is only six parts and some decals, but cleverly done to give chrome switches and instrument bezels with minimum effort. BTW, if anyone knows where to find any interior pictures of the Ken Miles car either in period or in the Shelby collection please point me at them! All I can find is a video of a couple of guys standing around the car and talking, with very little visible of any modelling reference use at all! I'd particularly like to know if all those switches were labelled at the 66 Le Mans race, because they seem to be in most restored or currently-raced cars, bu I can't find any evidence in period either way, still less what they actually control from left to right on that car (there seems to be no "standard" configuration in extant examples). This is the initial build up of the chassis completed, which means it's time for... ...work to begin on the engine. Again, no glue so far, and just a couple of screws holding the heads onto the block. If you paint anything on this kit, especially with primer, you need to mask or scrape clean the mounting pins and sockets. best, M. The #1 car in the Shelby Collection museum was not open so it was not possible to get pictures of the inside. On the other hand the #8 car was “exposed” at the Simeone museum so you could see every detail. Hope these help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Bacon Posted March 17, 2021 Author Share Posted March 17, 2021 Thank you very much @vamach1 they will indeed be very helpful. I just need some 1/12 Dymo tape! best, M. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Bacon Posted March 20, 2021 Author Share Posted March 20, 2021 Made good progress on the engine: The vinyl for the spark plug wires is fantastic... super flexible, pops over the nubbins on the distributor and "plugs" really easily. The only question is that I'm not sure it's in the right place; the drawings of where it's meant to end up are not completely clear, and there's nothing to positively locate the wire-holding "brackets." That said, looking at my reference photos, there are a variety of placements of the real thing as well... best, M. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Bacon Posted March 21, 2021 Author Share Posted March 21, 2021 Meng did a very good job on these. Each pipe locates snugly but crisply into the X-socket at the engine end, and they pop neatly over and around each other to end up in the pair of 2x2 squares ready to go into the 4:1 reducers. I've built other kits with the same exhaust arrangements that have been a NIGHTMARE to align.... I'm looking at you, IMC Lola. The engine can now slot in place in the chassis while work continues on the transmission... best, M. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bennyg Posted March 22, 2021 Share Posted March 22, 2021 Very nice. I’ve got plenty of projects on the go, but I’d love one of these. Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David G. Posted March 22, 2021 Share Posted March 22, 2021 Excellent work on this so far. Great information provided, thanks for taking the time to share it. David G. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Bacon Posted March 22, 2021 Author Share Posted March 22, 2021 Thanks, both! The back end is starting to look pleasingly busy and solid.There's some clever engineering in there to get the transmission in, but it's nerve-wracking. There's one "polycap" in the whole kit, which goes inside the transmission. "What's that for?" you say to yourself as you put it together. Well... fitting the transmission in place involves unscrewing the lower wheel carrier axle screws, folding the hubs, carriers and brakes upwards, sliding the transmission through with the half shafts in place, getting the poly cap over a pillar on the chassis, then angling the engine and transmission upwards to locate the tabs on the transmission in the slots on the engine and flexing it back downwards to snap fit the block and transmission together, which is only possible because of the flex the polycap provides. After that, bending the driveshafts at the universal joint, bringing the wheel carriers back down with the shafts inside at the hub and refitting the lower carrier screws is child's play by comparison! All that reference is going to really come in useful as the rest of the engine bay and plumbing is fitted! best, M. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modelbuilder Mark Posted March 22, 2021 Share Posted March 22, 2021 Very impressive, glad to see someone working on this kit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jasper018 Posted March 23, 2021 Share Posted March 23, 2021 Looks great Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Bacon Posted March 27, 2021 Author Share Posted March 27, 2021 Thanks, both! Getting near to completing the chassis now... Fuel pumps and hoses: there are only two of the flexible vinyl hose harness pieces, but they do the job pretty convincingly. Having found a really good reference picture of the distributor in the latest Octane magazine, I came down this morning determined to rearrange the ignition harness. And then looked again at this and realised you couldn't see anything! All those years of picking up foil and cigarette packet paper paid off... this is the section between the seats, which at least on the 1966 cars is covered in insulation -- the radiator hoses go through there. The seats are very clever. These two pieces fit into slots in the soft vinyl "hammock" moulding to provide some structure. Tamiya Titanium Silver spray paint and a fine black marker pen... And this is where we are tonight. The other seat is having its seat belts built. best, M. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
935k3 Posted March 28, 2021 Share Posted March 28, 2021 Fantastic build. What color and brand did you use on the exhaust? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kromolly Posted March 28, 2021 Share Posted March 28, 2021 Awesome detail. Looks fantastic! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Bacon Posted March 28, 2021 Author Share Posted March 28, 2021 Thank you both! @935k3 the exhausts are a mixture of AK Interactive “Extreme Metal” Stainless Steel and Bronze. Though I say it myself, I’m very pleased with how it came out! best, M. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David G. Posted March 28, 2021 Share Posted March 28, 2021 The detail work on this is mind-blowing, you're certainly doing this kit justice. David G. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dann Tier Posted March 28, 2021 Share Posted March 28, 2021 Wow!...i'm REALLY enjoying your work here, Bud!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Bacon Posted April 1, 2021 Author Share Posted April 1, 2021 Thanks, guys. Although it may seem like slow progress, off-camera I'm working my way through prepping and painting the main body components. Trying to get them properly painted while making sure all the precise snap fit location sockets and pins remain usable means a lot of masking! The cabin firewall insulation is probably not totally accurate, but I think it captures the spirit of the real thing -- quite "artisanal". I also need to make sure that it doesn't get in the way of the close fitting door interiors or block the functional latches. As you can see, I have some of Zero's colour matched paint for this car on the go! The front reservoir is just dropped roughly in place to see the effect. It doesn't fit permanently until after the core central tub and door assembly is put in place and screwed down. Although it's only 5 pieces, I think the detail is quite nice, even in unforgiving close up. Looking pretty solid and reasonably busy in all the right places. The rear clam interior clips on, swings open and closed and pins neatly into place when shut. Another nice bit of engineering. I think there'll be acres of pale blue in the next update... best, M. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Bacon Posted April 6, 2021 Author Share Posted April 6, 2021 So, I have been painting lots of pale blue, some of it less successfully than other bits, hence slow progress... but at last, progress there has been. Still no glue, no filler, and some well-hidden screws! best, M. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dann Tier Posted April 6, 2021 Share Posted April 6, 2021 21 minutes ago, Matt Bacon said: So, I have been painting lots of pale blue, some of it less successfully than other bits, hence slow progress... but at last, progress there has been. Still no glue, no filler, and some well-hidden screws! best, M. OUTSTANDING, Bud!!!!.....cant stop looking at it!!! Question: what are the two empty boxes beside the exhausts? i've never actually known. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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