Vallejo paint question

[TonyK]

There's been suggestions for me to look into Vallejo paint to fill the lack of Model Master colors. I have never used this paint and been looking on the Internet to learn about it.

Keep seeing lots of paint "sets" and air brush only paints but I just want to buy a few bottles for brush painting. Black is one specific color and some suggested "air black" for a possible replacement for Model Master Chrome black but haven't seen that one.

I do all my model and supply shopping online with different merchants so that's where I'd like to get these paints. Thank you for any help you can give.

[Can-Con]

I have a couple bottles of the stuff only because my local shop stocks it instead of Testers. 

I haven't actually used any yet. One thing about it is you HAVE TO use their thinner. 

I usually use lacquer thinner but it doesn't mix into the stuff. Alcohol won't mix into it either.

[peteski]

These are water-based acrylic paints. If you were using solvent-based paints in the past, you will have readjust your way of thinking. It is a whole different world of paints. Solvent-based paint thinners and water-based paint thinners are not compatible. Methods of cleaning your paint equipment is also different. Thinners are not compatible.  I'm still firmly into using the old-style organic-solvent based paints.  I have used some water-based paints for some small tasks (brush painting only), but not very much.

[Dave G.]

How you get on doing Vallejo depends on which series you're taking about and if brushing or airbrushing. I shot enamels and solvent based paints for decades before venturing into acrylics, you learn some quick lessons early on with acrylic, so I got into 2-3 year testing routine. and I can do a good job with them now. But if honest it's easier to decant some enamel from a spray can and just shoot that. I'm gonna shoot some 2-X tomorrow, decanted 3/4 oz or so today, still 11 oz left in the $4.99 can.

[Brutalform]

I use the Vallejo Air all the time. Just shake well, and it’s thinner than the Model Color counterpart to use in an airbrush so you won’t have to add water. For the Model Color bottles, I add just enough water with a eye dropper to get the correct consistency I need. Also be aware that there is a black metallic available. It’s printed small on the label. I bought the metallic by mistake. 
I don’t even bother with the Tamiya jar paints anymore as the Vallejo will leave brush strokes, but no where near as difficult to level as the Tamiya paint. 

Edited May 27, 2021 by Brutalform

[Dave G.]

The Tamiya acrylics brush nice by adding in Liquitex retarder to a good brushing consistency ( there are other methods too but that's working great for me) . I happen to have the retarder on hand anyway, in fact it goes in my acrylic thinner I make up for use in craft paints which pretty much ends tip dry..

The little Testors enamels brush nice with a little odorless mineral spirits added.

[Rick L]

On 5/26/2021 at 3:14 PM, peteski said:

These are water-based acrylic paints. If you were using solvent-based paints in the past, you will have readjust your way of thinking. It is a whole different world of paints. Solvent-based paint thinners and water-based paint thinners are not compatible. Methods of cleaning your paint equipment is also different. Thinners are not compatible.  I'm still firmly into using the old-style organic-solvent based paints.  I have used some water-based paints for some small tasks (brush painting only), but not very much.

Water is also a solvent. When Pete refers to solvent based paint he is referring to lacquer or enamel.

[peteski]

2 hours ago, Rick L said:

Water is also a solvent. When Pete refers to solvent based paint he is referring to lacquer or enamel.

Um, you're right, but the way modelers describe paints is already all messed up. Out of control, with no hope of getting people to be accurate. Modelers seem use "acrylic" to describe any and all water-solvent-based paints.  Even the modeling magazines seem to propagate that inaccurate terminology.

There are plenty of organic-solvent based (or petroleum-solvent-based) paints (both lacquers and enamels) that use acrylic binder.  I should go back to the terminology I've used in the past: "stinky-solvent-based" paints to indicate the non-water-solvent-based paints. At least that is descriptive enough for everybody to understand what I'm describing.

Edited May 30, 2021 by peteski

[peteski]

Duplicate post.

Edited May 30, 2021 by peteski

[youpey]

i am not a fan of vallejo. you can peel it off after it dries. its like a rubbery paint. 

[El Roberto]

Vallejo probably has a higher learning curve than anything else I've tried.  I usually just use it for brushing details. 

[DiscoRover007]

Vallejo is one of the best paints out there. Their air model paints are very easy to use and clean easily. One tip I would add, is the Air model silver paint is excellent for brush painting as well. In my honest opinion they are pretty much the best stuff out there right now. I would not hesitate using vallejo on everything except bodies and particular metal finishes or black underbodies that would be better served with a tougher lacquer finish. It has supplanted Tamiya for my uses, but I do have a few jars of Tamiya flat aluminum because I like the cast aluminum look it can deliver, and their clear red/orange paints.

 

90% of my coloring comes from vallejo acrylics or their spray can Flat Black/ or Silver. 

Edited June 3, 2021 by DiscoRover007

[DiscoRover007]

On 5/30/2021 at 9:37 PM, youpey said:

i am not a fan of vallejo. you can peel it off after it dries. its like a rubbery paint. 

I've never had that happen with their airbrush paints after sufficient drying time. That's true of the brush paints but thats probably because it hasnt fully cured. I actually kind of like that because if I mess it up I can scrape it away with a tooth pick.

[youpey]

7 minutes ago, DiscoRover007 said:

I've never had that happen with their airbrush paints after sufficient drying time. That's true of the brush paints but thats probably because it hasnt fully cured. I actually kind of like that because if I mess it up I can scrape it away with a tooth pick.

I had sprayed Vallejo on an interior and left it overnight. i had put some masking tape on it to spray something else, and it pulled the paint right off. I spent about 10.minutes total just pulling the rest off and starting over with a different brand. sad part is, i had bought the full military set and have like 75 or some odd number of bottles from when i first started to do military models. 

Now I use lifecolor instead. More expensive but much better

 

I will sometimes use the Vallejo for small spots and only if im done with the section where i dont need to touch it at all

Edited June 3, 2021 by youpey

[vintagerpm]

10 hours ago, youpey said:

I had sprayed Vallejo on an interior and left it overnight. i had put some masking tape on it to spray something else, and it pulled the paint right off.

Aqueous acrylics need to be sprayed over a primer coat, not bare plastic.  I use a lot of Velejo on armor models. Everything you see on the model below is Velejo paint over Tamiya lacquer primer (straight from the can), except for the cross (which are decals). Quite a bit of masking and no issues.

 

[youpey]

7 minutes ago, vintagerpm said:

Aqueous acrylics need to be sprayed over a primer coat, not bare plastic.  I use a lot of Velejo on armor models. Everything you see on the model below is Velejo paint over Tamiya lacquer primer (straight from the can), except for the cross (which are decals). Quite a bit of masking and no issues.

 

i always used tamiya primer. maybe my paint is bad. its not just one color though, and i have tried may times. maybe im thinning it wrong or messing it up in some way.

[TonyK]

Good discussion on this brand of paint. I use a lot of Tamiya for brush painting and think it's great but still like other brands for variety. Haven't found a good resource for buying Vallejo yet so may look into other brands.