bigmikevee Posted June 19, 2010 Share Posted June 19, 2010 Hey folks, I am struggling with BMF....and losing badly. I cannot make the cut around the doorlock, paint, polish etc. are all done, so can't use some of the other great ideas I've seen for pre-finish BMF on script and detail. Should I just use drop of paint? I just can't make the circle and can't get it to punch out to place on the doorlock, if I can't get it right will have to put scale shopping-cart dent on each side, and place in Walmart diorama. Help. Thanks. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danno Posted June 19, 2010 Share Posted June 19, 2010 I'll BMF door handles, but I won't even try to BMF the door locks (or trunk locks). What I usually do is just touch the tip of a new silver metallic Sharpie marker pen to it. Looks just as good as anything! Or, if you wanna be really anal about it, the photoetch lock cylinder discs are good, too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wayne Buck Posted June 19, 2010 Share Posted June 19, 2010 I usually use a silver sharpie as well. Works great! Maybe you can get a real small piece of aluminum tubing and punch out a circle on something soft and then stick it on? Never tried it, but might work... One thing I know that is a MUST for BMF is a brand new, super sharp blade. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KENNEDYJR Posted June 19, 2010 Share Posted June 19, 2010 Not much help from me either-I usually paint those too. Saves a lot of hassle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Keck Posted June 19, 2010 Share Posted June 19, 2010 I believe in the right tool for the job - when I can afford it. In this case the tool is the Waldron Model Products punch and die set. I gave it to myself for one of my many birthdays. It comes ready to punch holes in the following diameters: .160, .120, .089, .081, .059, and .039 inches. Punch out the appropriate size from BMF; seperate the foil from the backing with a sharp Exacto blade; apply with tweezer and burnish with a Q-tip. The first search I did came up $55 for the set. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zoom Zoom Posted June 19, 2010 Share Posted June 19, 2010 You could splurge and get an aftermarket set of photoetch lock cylinders if you aren't happy w/BMF or a drop of paint to do the job. I'm pretty sure you can get them from Model Car Garage and other vendors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Goschke Posted June 19, 2010 Share Posted June 19, 2010 After struggling with the foil popping off the lock while I was trimming it, I started pre-cutting out the tiny circle on the sheet of BMF then picking it up on the tip of a #11 blade to apply to the model, but of course it would pop off during burnishing. Fed up, I decided to use Testors Chrome Silver to detail paint the lock. Then I remembered that Testor Chrome Silver takes like 30 years to dry completely, and so would be the perfect adhesive for the little circle of BMF once the paint tacked up a little. Now I use that technique on all the little detail bits, including horn rings, that need BMF; detail paint Chrome Silver, once it's "dryish" to the touch, apply bmf. It also helps keep the little bit in place over time if you brush a little Future clear acrylic over the BMF. Not the best photo, but the lock buttons, deck hardware, and washer nozzles on this 'Vette were done that way... Same with this Desoto, along with all the emblems, scripts, and lettering... The horn ring on this '32 roadster was done that way... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMc Posted June 19, 2010 Share Posted June 19, 2010 If you build customs....you can shave those locks and handles away!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Bacon Posted June 19, 2010 Share Posted June 19, 2010 You could also try getting hold of a silver "Gundam Marker", made by Gunze Sangyo. I have a couple and the "chrome" effect of the ink is pretty impressive. bestest, M. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zoom Zoom Posted June 19, 2010 Share Posted June 19, 2010 You could also try getting hold of a silver "Gundam Marker", made by Gunze Sangyo. I have a couple and the "chrome" effect of the ink is pretty impressive. bestest, M. I have a Pilot Extra Fine Point silver marker that is perfect for this and sounds like the Gundam marker; it looks as close to chrome as any paint, and dries really fast. I've used it on many of my models, and for a few lock cylinders. Being a Pilot pen it should be easy enough to find...but I had a hard time finding them. Found mine at an art supply store. It was worth the search; the gold is similar. Much more reflective than a usual silver marker. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted June 19, 2010 Share Posted June 19, 2010 As already posted above, the easiest, quickest way to "chrome" the lock is to touch the tip of a silver marker to it. Takes literally a second or two. No muss, no fuss, bam, you're done. No reason to overcomplicate such a quick, easy and simple operation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brett Barrow Posted June 19, 2010 Share Posted June 19, 2010 I believe in the right tool for the job - when I can afford it. In this case the tool is the Waldron Model Products punch and die set. I gave it to myself for one of my many birthdays. It comes ready to punch holes in the following diameters: .160, .120, .089, .081, .059, and .039 inches. Punch out the appropriate size from BMF; seperate the foil from the backing with a sharp Exacto blade; apply with tweezer and burnish with a Q-tip. The first search I did came up $55 for the set. Steve There's always the "poor man's punch and die" - an appropriately sized drill bit installed backwards in a pin vise. You punch through the BMF and into a firm rubber surface - a mouse pad works, as does an eraser. You might have to try a few times to get usable circles. I used to do this a lot before I bought an actual punch and die set. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Keck Posted June 19, 2010 Share Posted June 19, 2010 There's always the "poor man's punch and die" After you buy the Waldron punch you will be poor LOL! Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rider Posted June 20, 2010 Share Posted June 20, 2010 What about using a peice of brass tubing to make a die, or is that size not available? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vizio93 Posted June 20, 2010 Share Posted June 20, 2010 What I do is get silver paint and a tooth pick. All you do is barely dip the tip of the toothpick in the paint and then dab it on the lock. Be really careful not to get to much paint on the tip of your toothpick though !!! This works on any small detail that need to be painted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modelmartin Posted June 20, 2010 Share Posted June 20, 2010 Something I used to do is find a really small straight pin and drill a hole where the lock is and glue in the pinhead. It's already chrome and will not fall off! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruz Posted June 21, 2010 Share Posted June 21, 2010 What I like to do in situations like this is use Model Master Gloss Black paint, put a generous amount on the lock making sure to keep it from running and ultimately, with a fine point brush, just dab a bit of Alclad Chrome on it, works wonders. I did this on the dash of my '49 Merc as you can see in the pictures below! I also did it on the lug nuts of my current Catalina build!! Hosted on Fotki Not very visible in this picture but in person it is........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LOBBS Posted June 21, 2010 Share Posted June 21, 2010 You could also BMF the door locks and other trim just prior to your last color coat. Trim the BMF as close as you possibly can then lay down the final coat. When that coat is dry and before you clear take a Q-tip and some 91% isopropyl alcohol and/or some fine sandpaper and remove the color from the BMF. Trapping the edge of the BMF will help hold it down for the long term. Almost all the chrome trim on my Nova interior was done this way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlie8575 Posted June 24, 2010 Share Posted June 24, 2010 I generally dry-brush chrome silver on things like that (key: DRY brush.)I like the idea of the foil/91% alky, at least for bigger pieces. I might give that a shot. Charlie Larkin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Colmer Posted June 24, 2010 Share Posted June 24, 2010 Go back to what Steve said. Save up the 40 bucks, send it to Micromark and get a punch set. Steve told me to do this and is was the best advice I had in YEARS! You will find all sorts of uses for this tool. Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Keck Posted June 24, 2010 Share Posted June 24, 2010 Go back to what Steve said. Save up the 40 bucks, send it to Micromark and get a punch set. Steve told me to do this and is was the best advice I had in YEARS! You will find all sorts of uses for this tool. Scott Hey Scott! How ya doin? Long time and all that! Was it last Septmber in SoCal we last met? I just checked the Micromark site and the punch & die set is $35 plus S&H. The 9 punches are 1.0 mm (0.039 inch) to 5.0 mm (0.197 inch) diameter in 0.5 mm (0.0197 inch) increments. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blake Rogers Posted June 24, 2010 Share Posted June 24, 2010 You could also try getting hold of a silver "Gundam Marker", made by Gunze Sangyo. I have a couple and the "chrome" effect of the ink is pretty impressive. bestest, M. those markers are worth it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Colmer Posted June 26, 2010 Share Posted June 26, 2010 Hey Steve, It was at GSL where we talked and you shared some tips while I drooled over the Woody Wagon you had on the table. I also am waiting for an excuse to try making my own pinstripes too. I was giving the lock thing some thought. I might try sanding them off to start. Then I would punch out a tiny lock size disk form aluminum flashing tape. It would have a little crest to it, which is closer to accurate than flat PE. Next I would use a #11 blade to put a tiny slit in the disk. Finally - peel and stick. Hope to see 'round again Steve. Let's see what I learn this time. Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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