935k3

You can get the rain tires at http://www.mshobbies.com/servlet/Categories?category=ICON+AUTOMOTIVE

The brakes are photo-etch sanded in a circular motion with 1000 grit sand paper.

I know this kit is famous for that. I did allot of work to fix that including getting rid of the mounting post that attach cahsssis to the body. I then made that air intake at the back of the side window one piece as on the real car. I also covered that stupid notch in that area. Some plastic was added to make it fit better.

I will use the red decal stripes.

A few mor pics with scratchbuilt roll cage installed and the exhaust shield installed;

A little something I have been working on;

Watch this execellent BBC documentary about the Mclaren car company and the the launch and building of the new Mclaren MP4/12C, it's 59 minutes long and very interesting. Mclaren has allot riding on this car being successful.

It seems according to the link below that Tamiya will do a all new tool of the Jagermeister Porsche 934 Turbo RSR in 1/24 scale w/ photo etch parts. It has been available in 1/12 scale only. http://tamiyamodelmagazine.com/blog/2013/01/09/on-the-way-from-tamiya-2/

Not today actually but last Friday I picked these two up at Performance Hobbies in Webster, NY. The Ferrari has an excellent set of treaded rain tires. a and I just ordered this from MS Hobbies;

I have both of those airbrushes and I love them both. The Iawata problem may be the packking seal that the needle passes through is worn. Take the airbrush apart completely especially the head assembly and the trigger barrel spring etc. Pass the needle through the airbrush you should feel something grabbing the needle. It can be tightened by turning the packing nut(standard blade screw driver fit) behind it, turn it clockwise to tighten it. Do not tighten it to much. Lube the needle and clean everything and re-assemble and it should work. I just use a mixing stick to mix paint in the cup. I like the bigger cup on the Talon because I can spray paint from a can right into it. See the diagram below 14B is the packing nut and 14A is the seal.

Don Wheeler's site is an excellent resource for comparing airbrushes and seeing the parts. Iawatas are great, I have an Eclipse but replacement parts are expensive. Of all the airbrushes I have had I like my Iawata Eclipse and Paasche Talon. The Talon comes with a knob on the handle that lets you preset how far the needle can pull back which can give you a consistent spray like a single action. A similar handle is available for the Eclipse. There also are some good videos on Youtube to help you decide.

Even though this is a ficticious rendering of SuperGT version, it would make a great looking racecar.

Tractor Supply stores did sell the Gray but now they sold their soul to the garbage from Rustolem. I get gray and white at a local AutoQuest store in Mechanicsburg, PA. It's worth looking for, nothing sands better.

That board is shot. The black thing is most likely a Varistor for overvoltage protection or thermal protection. They usually short to ground to protect the rest of the circuit. Sometimes an undersized(wattage)resistor is used as a fuse in the circuit which is probably the case here. Regardles repair would not be safe or reliable with the condition of that circuit board.

Your gonna love the Talon. My Iawata has been parked since I got it. I have the gravity feed version.

You are not doing anything wrong. The problem is primers ar very porous and tend to soak up the first layers of the color coat. I always consider the first few coats to be nothing but a sealer coat. I let it dry and sand down then apply the final coats. It always comes out better the second time.

Do not use Future over these paints, it will crack without fail. It will happen right away or take awhile but it will happen.

Yes. The weathering master sets are acrylic based. They can be removed with ammonia or windex. You can use them over any paint. You should keep the pack in a Ziplock bag because they do dry out.

The beginning of the end of SPEED channel as we know it. http://totalf1.com/full_story/view/431867/Speed_loses_rights_to_broadcast_F1_in_the_US/ I am sure Lemans will be next to be dropped. Those were the only things I watched on this worthless excuse for a motorsport channel, now I don't need to watch it ever again.

I used to use one allot and used some veryfine brass wire to unclog it. I started using Tamiya's thin cement and it has very small apllicator brush which negates the nee for the TNF. When it was empty I started filling it with Proweld.

The more I use this airbrush the more I like it. I do like it better than my Iawata. BTW Iawata is made in Japan not Oregon. I believe Tamiya's airbrushes are made by Iawata. I testsed the fan spray with water and it works great I just have not need it yet. I would bet it probably needs a little more air pressure than the regular tips. The large cup is really nice. I can spray a little paint right from a spray can in it and spray away. This is the best airbrush Paasche has ever made. One tip for anybody getting one is the seal the needle passes through is adjustable and mine was a little tight but after polishing the needles it worked great.

Apply future under the decal then let it dry about an hour maybe. Then instead of dipping try carefully wiping a coat of Future on. I use the round disposable makeup pads to wipe it on. Dip the pad in Future then damp the excess off on a paper towel then wipe it on. I do bodies covered with decals that way. If it comes up bad carefully wipe it off with Windex and try again.

One thing that bothers me about the domestic kit makers in particular is how many kits they screw up the ride heigth on. Some of the cars look like they are 4 wheel drive. Some things might measure in scale but just do not look right when scaled down.

The Testor's stuff is too thin for most applications. The best white glue I ever used and the strongest is Formula 560 Canopy Glue(see pic below). Most hobbyshops carry it. It's made by Pacer the maker of Zap-a-Gap super glue. I use it for allot more than clear parts.

Here is some wheels I painted today. Gold is decanted Tamiya TS21 Gold and then masked thent TS14 Black base and finished with Spaztix Mirror chrome. These were white plastic.