935k3

That has always made me wonder too. I never heard of anybody being killed by a smoking driver. As long as tobacco is a legal product they should be allowed to advertise it. BTW I am not even a smoker.

They didn't call them Killer Bees for nothing.

Thanks to all for the comments. This was a pain to build, I am glad it's finished.

More Pics.

Just finished, Fujimi's kit of the Dome Zero RL. It ran at Lemans in 1979. Powered by the popular at the time Cosworth Ford V8. WIP is here http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=55063&hl=%2Bdome+%2Bzero+%2Brl&fromsearch=1

I have been using Future over 20 yerars and the only paint it has cracked on is Tamiya Acrylics and Testor's Enamels. I apply with the round disposable cosmetic pads available in 100 packs at the Dollar Store. With practice. it can be wiped on with good results. Dipm the pad in a bowl of Future then bloty the exces on a paper towel thenn wipe it on. Most waxes seem to remove Future when rubbed out but I have discovered that several coats of Zymol brand wax do not and do deepen and enhance the glossiness. The mor coats of wax the deeper the shine up to a point. Areas of imperfrctions can be dressed by wiping the area with a 50/50 mix of ammonia and Future, this reflows the area and levels all out. Smaller areas can be done with aQ-tip.

You can get Gloss White and Gloss Black at All Micheals craft stores. It's labeled Krylon Specialty Laquer. The new formula is garbage. Any paint that does not say recoat at anytime is vulnerable to recoats no matter what the instructions say. Luckily I noticed the change and started buying the old stuff before it disapeared.

Another possibility is if the paint was decanted from a spray can it was not allowed to gas out completely. Also if the vent whole an the jar lid is blocked this can happen.

Thats's the good stuff, that's what the newer cans look like. It's simply the best sanding primer around.

Here is a link to the story about this car. http://www.oneighturbo.com/audi/audi-motorsport/audi-r18-e-tron-quattro-makes-its-world-premiere-in-munich/

That's the "mule" for this car. They were trying to disguise the aero stuff because the rules will be frozen soon.

Audi's new LMP car the R18 E-Tron Quattro. It's a hybrid and has all wheel drive. this is what a racecar should look like in 2012.

Yes the DTM cars are V8s. Audi BMW and Audi are competing this year.

The 2012 A5 DTM Car. My kind of racecar. More pics at this link http://www.netcarshow.com/audi/2012-a5_dtm/

This is the Enthusiast series full version. It's old kit that is ill fitting and fiddly in places but it's just such a unique and cool car I kept at it. It needs some touch up here and there but the chassis is done. The decals will be fun too. Allot of the suspension rods were replaced with metal rods for sturdiness. There is no rear chassis so the engine to bulkhead hods the whole rear end up so I have a metal rod spine run through the block and transmission that goe into the bulkhead.

Another great video Doc. Plasticote is the best sanding primer there is. You can get the gray at all Tractor Supply stores. Make sure you ar not buying the enamel primer. I use the Alclad Grey primer for all of my smaller parts, it's very fine.

I use to swear by my Badger 175 Crescendo until I bought an Eclipse. The Badger has been parked since I got the Eclipse. It's just a great airbrush. I use a Badger 155 Anthem for bigger parts because has a very wide but still well atomized spray pattern when opened up all the way. Allot of people are allways saying how great the Paaasche H is, well when use start using Iawatas you realize how dirty spraying single actions like the H are. It's not the dual action it's the internal mix. Intenal mix will always atomize the paint better. I have seen the Badger Krome and it looks to be a very nice airbrush, I would like to try one.

Our model club had a build an Amtronic contest and somebody discovered you could waterproof it and make a fishbowl complete with a goldfish swimming around in it. This kit has been joked about allot.

Tamiya tape is the best, it is a little expensive but it never bleeds as long as it properly applied. It has just the right tackineess. this paint job was done with it. A polishing kit can help cleanup any bleed you do run into and you can knock down the separation line if too high with the polishing kit..This paint job was done with Tamiya tape.

Use flush cutting nippers(wire cutter etc.)Always make sure the flat side of the blade is towards the glass you want and the angled side is towards the sprue, this makes the cutting force to go a way from the part you want and gives a nice clean sqare cut. Don't cut right at the separation point and use nail file to clean up up to the desired edge. Sometimes I use a brand new single edge razor blade to cut when you can lay everything flat on a hard surfuce.

I have been doing that for a long time now. It's saved me quite a few times to be able to reprint a decal.

Porsche's twin-turbo flat six 956 engine.

560 Canopy Glue is the best white glue on the market. I use it for allot more than clear parts.

Relax http://www.zombo.com

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