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Toyota's new TS-030 Hybrid Lemans prototype, which will run at the 24 this year.

The 1968 Mclaren M8A had an aluminum 427 engine. It was bored out to 465 cu. in. for the1969 mclaren M8B.

This works in about 10-15 minutes and removes the undercoat. Rinse thouroghly after use and keep it off your hands.

At this link you can find everything you need to know about Future. http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html

Future is good for sealling the plastic before painting to prevent ghosting and color bleed. I have sprayed about every type of paint around over it without any problems. I usually just carefully wipe it on using disposable cosmetic pads(round)

Great job. I have the Saltzger Mercedes and the Kristensen Audi to build. They are both pretty nice kits and like all of ROG's newer race car kits they have great and extensive decal sheets.

I followed all of that build and put all the pics on a CD.

Check this link at Miniwerks.com The guys that build like this are just amazing. Make sure see all three pages. I don't think it's finished yet. http://miniwerks.com...sp?TOPIC_ID=890

This is the new Prius racecar for the Japanese Super GT 300 series. It looks pretty good as a racecar I think.

Krylon changed their formula a few years back. It was a good quality acrylic Laquer. It's now a pretty crappy Enamel. You can still get the old formula at Micheal's Crafts. It only comes in gloss white and gloss black. The label says Krylon Specialty Laquer. The new stuff is garbage compared to the old formula. I was told it was changed for enviromental(big surprise)reasons. If you search the net you can find other colors, It is labeled as Industrial Use.

You won't be disapponted. It's the strongest without a doubt. I use it for allot of other parts not just clear parts.. It does take a few minutes to setup but it's good stuff. I use it for initial test fit assembly of parts.also. Pacer makes Zap-a-gap superglue which also is the best I have used over the years.

The best clear parts glue you can get is this.

The paint was probably lacquer and would have stripped with 91% alcohol which is allot cheaper. Rule of thumb for laquers(including Tamiya and Testors and Duplicolor) use 91% Alcohol, for all else use Oven cleaner or CSC.

I meant the rear part of the body over the engine from the firewall back. I cut it at the line where the rear would open at. I then added tabs and mountings to re attatch in final assembly. Believe me it's worth the extra work in the end.

Nice start. Beware of the warning in the instructions about spreading the body and i may not come off after it's on. I built two versions of this kit. I cut the raear deck loose so i could feed the chassis in through the back and then remount the rear deck. There is no spreading and it comes off if needed. I found it to be a much safer way of building these.

Here's a couple I bought myself for Christmas from money I got selling old kits and airbrushes I don't use anymore. Tamiya's 1/12 scale Porsche 934 and the Fujimi 1/20 McLaren MP4/6.

I was at the December meeting and sold some stuff including two Paasche airbrushes. You do have this kit from me. I am building this currently the Dome Zero RL

For anybody with Netflix the movie Senna is now available. After watching this movie you will not like Jackie Stewart and especially Alain Prost. It's an interesting in depth look at the man that was one of the greatest drivers ever.

Thanks all. the tric pic was done in Paintshop Pro 7.

Tamiya kit of the Celcxa Safari rally car. I had to make allot of the decals due to yellowing. I also made all the Marlxxx decals. I did not use the UV filter window film provided in the kit because just could not get a clean uniform look to it. I scratchbulit an engine insert so it looks like something is in the hood opening.

Hey Doc have you tried this for exhaust staining? It works good and it comes off with ammonia(harmless to all but acrylic paints.) if you don't like it or want to do over.

Try this;

go to the cosmetic dept at Walmart and look for the small pointed Q-tips and use some polish and polish it off.

I never glue bodies on. I always devise a mechanical way that locks the body on by using various pieces of Evergreen plastic to make tabs and locking mechanisms. It's more secure and no glue worries and it can be taken apart if need be.