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Nice as usual Curt. I was wandering if the F1 after the "Good Year" on the tire letting is correct. I do not remember it being on the real cars from that era and I have Tamiya's 1/12 scale kit of this car and it has just "Good Year"and "Eagle" lettering.

Go to the grocery store and get some of this and an old tooth brush and scrub the tires with it. It will dull the tires nicely. It's also goo for scrubbing parts for paint preparation.

Thanks, what is the sponsor version on the red one. I thought the red is only the Skyline versions like the factory car and the Coke car(which I wish I had.) I primed the interior with Tamiya fine primer due to some wok that it needed. Than a coat of TS-14. Then some TS-17 which didn't look bright enough so I sprayed a couple of coats of Alclad chrome over that. It looks just about right for the sheet aluminum tub on this car and the Alclad seems to stick pretty well to it.

This one is done. It's Aoshima's Nissan Impul Turbo Silhouette. The kit is a pretty old mold and it shows. Some of the parts were very poorly molded. The decals were very brittle and wanted to chip allot. All in all it came out pretty good and it is pretty cool racecar from the group 5 era. WIP can be seen here WIP

Adjustments made in software on the computer usually have allot more adjustment capabilities than the monitor has. This is dependent on what video card you are using and the driver software. If you use the generic windows driver you will not have as many options as the card specific driver.

One advantage is that all double action airbrushes mix the air and paint internally, this produces a better atomization of the paint. This is critical for paints like Alclad and especially clear colors. I have 3 Paasche's the H,VL and VLST-PRO and a Badger Crescendo and none of them spray as nice as my Iawata Eclipse. The Eclipse also sprays Alclad primer better than any of the other. Another advantage of finer spraying airbrushes is they use allot less paint Th Paasche H is like using a Holly double pumper 4 barrel compared to the Iawata.

This picture is an artist rendering of what will be the 2011 Super GT version of the Lexus LFA, notice the Tamiya decal on the rear wing end plate. I hope we eventualy get a kit of this awesome looking race car.

I like this proposed racing version, and notice it has a Tamiya decal on the rear wing end plate.

This video is a great tribute to some of the great moments in motorsport, it's also a reminder to some that there is more in this world than NASCAR. Here is another great video from this same guy.

Go to the section of your local supermarket where they sell tin foil etc and get some of the white Freezer paper made for wrapping meats. Just tape it in place with tape and replace it once and awhile. Here is a pic of what to get.

Some pics of my Nissan Impul group 5 car. The chassis is done and the body is ready to decal. Original WIP is here Impul WIP

Be careful on thinner jars. Alclad used to put a bb in the jar. I shook one too hard and broke the bottle.That probably happened to other people because they do not have anything but paint in the bottles now.

Great job Curt. I have that same problem when clear coating silver paints. The hot paints dissolve and refloat the pigments, it drives you crazy sometimes.

Some pics of the finished chassis.

This video gives you an idea of what a modern race car could be without the restrictions due to modern rules.

It's building season again. I got some interior work done on this car. I have to do the seat belts yet and install the roll cage, then some cleanup and touch up. This kit is old and it shows. Some parts are not molded too well and needed allot of clean up but it is a cool old group 5 car. The kit is by Aoshima.

Another good product for guiding re-scribing is DYNAMO brand label maker tape, The type for the old mechanical label makers. It is is thick plastic with a very good adhesive. It really helps guide the blade for scribing and defining edges.

I built the Modeller's kit which I was lucky to get for $20.00 at the Watkins Glen library. It is a curbside with some interior details. The wheels are beautifully molded with open spokes. There are metal parts for the rearview mirrors and the gas filler caps(which I hear the Fujimi version has also). Here is a pic of mine.

I lne my booth with the white freezer paper made for wrapping meats. You can get it at any grocery store. I just tape it in place with masking tape. Just replace it once in awhile. You really should line with something as the paint builds up pretty fast especially if you use spray can instead of an airbrush. Find cheap furnace filters of the correct size. You can get them for less than $5.00 a four pack at Wal-Mart or the big hardware stores. Some over spray does get through the filter and you should vacuum out the fan when replacing the filter.

I started using Tamiya's masking tape. I cut the tap to length then lay it on something and airbrush it flat black. Then wrap it around and tack the end with super glue. Here is an example;

They make nice models. Here is two I built. I did replace the headlights with MV lenses. Make sure the Alpine in the more recent issue because the decals are much better. Studio 27 does decals for different versions of these kits.

Awesome job Peter. Here is an action shot of one from the Nurburgring 24 hour for inspiration.

I have to agree with Zoom Zoom they are the best polish to use on Tamiya's own sprays. The Finish compound does not seem do anything to enhance the Fine and I wouldn't buy it again.

It is funny how much it has the Nizmo look considering it's a Honda. How abou this Lexus LF racecar. And these are an artist rendering of the Super GT version of the Lexus.

Has anybody else seen this car, I think it's very unique and interesting. This car was to be the replacement for the NSX. It is front engined though. It was never sold to the public but is being raced in Japan. It's called the HSV-010 GT