935k3

This is the second version I built of this kit. I suggest doing what I did if you do build it. I cut the rear deck loose so you can slide the chassis in through the back and then attach the rear deck so you do not have to spread the body over the chassis. There is a warning in the instructions that says it is very difficult to remove the body when it is on the chassis. Also you can extend the fender wells to fill out and meet the inside of the body. Do not put the front tires on until it is in. You also have to mount the door panels to the chassis and cut out the notches on the inside of the body so it all slides in easily. I also mounted the dashboard to the chassis. Allot more work but better than spreading and mounting a completed body only to notice something inside needed fixed.

I am working on this one now. White paint is Krylon and green is Krylon Emerald Green. The white cutouts on the green side panels are for the number plate decal so it won't bleed the green underneath.

Nice model. I use the hot cloth trick on all my builds. Tamiya's newer kit decals due seem to have a problem with sticking. I sometimes use white glue under them but lately I have been using Future under them , cleanup is easy using ammonia on a Q-Tip.

Great job so far on a historic classic in racing. I was lucky enough to see this car race in 1969 at Watkins Glen(Thanks Dad). Seeing these cars in person changed my taste in cars for the rest of my life.

Great models Bob, I really like the 911. I remember watching those cars on TV.

Warning DO NOT use the clear spray over the acrylics, the spray is a synthetic lacquer. The acrylics are not really a good choice for bodys any way. Take a look at Testor's Laquer sprays as they are cheaper. You could use the Acrylic Flat Black over any paint used for the body. Tamiya' Gloss acrylics have a tendency to crack if a second color is painted over another.

I for one(American) want to say thanks to our Canadian friends for giving us the Red Green Show and Rush one of the best bands in the world. Hockey ain't bad either. In the words of Tony Kornheiser, Goodnight Canada.

yeah, this pic is the car that was nicknamed Batmobile. Hans Stuck's BMW 3.5 CSL. There is a nice 1/12 scale kit of the car.

Check out this Golf GTI build on a German Forum. I really like his body mods. GTI

ZYMOL,it has an awsome shine and it smells good to because it has coconut oil in it. It also is the only wax that works over Future, other waxes tend to remove Future when rubbing them out.

Nice job so far. Beware the decals in those kits can be very brittle.

HAPPY Birthday Nick,I hope you got what you wanted for your Birthday. Tell your your dad now's a good time to get an airbrush. BTW finish that Audi.

Just finished this one. The WIP is here 350ZGT

Very nice model. The heats hielding under the hood is a nice detail. Some of the craft stores sell that stuff in rolls in the cake decorating section.

The color you need is Testor's Jet Exhaust. I like to airbrush it very lightly over a bright silver or Alclad Chrome base. Here is an example of one I have used this on. I used the Tamiya weathering kit too. The weathering colors are acrylic based and can be removed with an ammonia soaked Q-Tip if you mess up.

Did anybody hear ever watch the Red Green Show? This guy made the craziest stuff. He is the King of Ductapedom(is that a word?). Watch some of the other related videos. Red Green

MicroSol and especially Solvaset are to strong for Tamiya,Studio 27 and Cartograf decals. I bought a small electric hot pot at Walmart. I keep the near boiling water by when doing decals. I dip the cloth or tissue in the hot water then damp out the excess water on a paper towel. Making sure the decal is in the proper position then press the decal down. Do not hold it on too long. You can use a Q-tip for small areas.

You should be able to clean it with warm soapy water. If it doesn't come off it might not be a residue, It might be the decal solvent has attacked the clear carrier on the decal making it look less glossy or different from the rest of the decal. What brand of decal was it? I avoid using solvents. I use a steaming hot damp tissue or cloth pressed over the decal. This makes it conform instantly with no wrinkles and leaves no residue. I only use solvent down in panel lines.

Thanks, I am using Scale Motorsport's decals. Make sure you buy new stuff only as the old stock is very brittle. This picture shows the difference in the packaging.

Here is some more progress pics. I am doing the decals now. That rear fender decal is a bit of a pain.

The rules dictated a max tire width but not the number of tires at the front. So the thinking was more rubber on the road and they were small diameter to gain a lower front profile(less wind resistance etc.) The car did win. Also if it rained the front set could be a rain tire which would clear a path for a dry set right behind it.

Ambroid Pro-Weld is widely available again, it was hard to get for awhile. I was using Plastruct Bondene when I could not get it. It worked just as well. I never liked Tenax because it lost it's strength after a month or two after buying it. Something must of evaporated but the volume did not change.

Some updates on my current build.

If you are talking before primer or paint use 320 grit for rough work then finish with 400 and 600 last. The 600 is usually smooth enough to paint with no marks. Get it at places like Tru-Valu hardware stores as you can buy it by the sheet. Always use with water. Higher grits should be used to sand primer like 1000 and 1500 grit. These higher grits are available in the Automotive section at Wal-Mart, these are made by 3M.

Absolutely fantastic builds. How do you do so many that well in a year? Absolutely amazing! Is the Ferrari 312T the Tamiya 1/12 0r the Hasegawa 1/20? What Red did you use on the Little Red Wagon?