Muncie

I agree completely - I attended an auto body/painting evening class at the local community college that was set-up for people painting their own car. John Kosmosky from House of Color even came in one evening to talk about how to paint a car. Still have eight pages of notes from that evening. The class talked about safety - including the guy the instructors knew that was working with isocyanate-based paint who had a mask but nothing for his eyes. One time and that was the path that killed him. It's not worth ignoring the safety instructions - and I won't even touch 2K. At somewhere over 60, I can say that I painted model cars with lacquer in the '70's and '80's without a mask - did a couple of 1/1's including bodywork and sanding - and an evening doing fiberglass inside a Corvette for six hours probably didn't do any good for my health either. I've never smoked. I can also say that I've had cancer. You are doing the right thing by researching the proper safety procedures and using the right equipment.

Craig Morrison passed away Sunday due to complications from Covid 19 Remembering Craig Morrison – Art Morrison News

Well done! thank you for fixing the photos

Ray was a friend. I didn't know him well before he passed away in 2014. He is missed.

Very True, I've heard of box stock rules that allowed allowed using everything in the box including the box... stretched sprue was allowed for engine detailing.

Sierra Gold and Adobe Beige is the two tone. I get some of them mixed up, too Adobe Beige is a little more off-white the big list here - 1955, 1956, & 1957 Chevy Colors and Paint Codes (classicindustries.com)

Thanks Casey

yes, The Powerliner cab is 4" wider than the 61 series raised cab in the AMT kit - but there are many other differences. The extra width in the tunnel and a unique forward frame assembly was required to accommodate a 1200 square inch radiator. The Powerliner was developed as a high horsepower owner operator truck long before Freightliner had a Conventional in that market. Every Powerliner had a lot of extra Custom Engineering hours.

I don't think anybody has mentioned this - the early 221 and 260 engine had a five bolt bellhousing, later engines had six. Probably not a big deal in our world where that area is hardly visible but it can be a big deal in full size when trying to bolt the bellhousing to the block.. Early blocks are difficult to find. more here - Ford Small-Block Engine Interchange Guide: Cylinder Block (diyford.com) see the web site for more details Ford Small-Block Engine Interchange Guide: Cylinder Block The engine block is the foundation on which everything is built. What you’ve got to work with determines the best-possible choices for you down the road in your engine build. The information that follows will allow you to properly identify the wide range of factory blocks that were made, and the distinctive characteristics of each. 221/260/289/302 Block identification is straightforward with 221, 260, 289, and 302 cubic-inch Fords. The 221 and 260 are both five-bolt bellhousing blocks with either a 3.500- inch bore for the 221 or 3.800-inch for the 260. Casting numbers and date codes are C2OE and C3OE, located just above the starter. These blocks are easy to spot because their bores are smaller than the 4.000-inch bores found on the 289/302. Deck cooling passages are an odd triangular shape as well, which is another element that differentiates them from the 289 and 302. Early 1962 model year 221 and 260 blocks had two 11⁄2-inch freeze plugs on each side, which later became three freeze plugs in 1963. These early blocks are also differentiated via engine mount bolt hole spacing, with the earliest 221/260 blocks being 6 inches apart along with two freeze plugs instead of three. Changes to three freeze plugs and different engine-mount bolt hole spacing happened early in the 1963 model year to reduce NVH. Here are the two basic bellhousing bolt patterns side by side. On the left is the smaller 5-bolt bellhousing used through 1964 with 221, 260, and 289 engines. On the right is the larger 6-bolt pattern from 1965 on. Note a larger transmission bolt pattern as well with the 6-bolt, which also includes the smaller 1962–1964 transmission bolt pattern.

Toner is mixed with clear and makes something like a candy paint. It is how some of the first candy paint jobs were done in the 1950's. The intensity of the color can be varied by changing the ratio between toner and clear. The paint is transparent and will need a base coat underneath. The information on the bottle isn't very clear. It almost sounds like it's already mixed with some clear so it's just add lacquer thinner and go. Quite a few unknowns - experiment on something that doesn't matter. my two cents and it may be worth less than that...

Although I'd love to see a kit for the 1967 Impala or Caprice wagon, at least 50% of the tooling would have to be new. In addition to the body, it would require new Interior with seats, glass insert, and chassis/floor pan with the spare tire well instead of a gas tank. The front seat would have to be replaced because the Supernatural sedan does not have a stock seat. I had a black and woodgrain 1967 Caprice wagon long a go with big block, full dress with most of the toys - neat car. I would love to have a kit.

The local hardware store may have a selection of packages of decorative tacks in the small nail section - I've seen them there, but not all hardware stores carry them.

that's my plan. bonus - it can drive at night when I'm asleep! 24 hour trip, I can sleep eight of it - see the country for the rest of it

absolutely agree on the gold - saw it in 1984 on a sunny day. That color just danced in good light.

Leaving the chassis bare metal also made it easier to find cracks and repair broken welds on race day. My best guess for the body is straight Miller beer red. The later gold War Eagle funny cars were candy and pearl.

missed opportunities... I was a member of SABA with Bob. Bob would share some history at our meetings any time he had an opportunity. Bob was one of the founding members. We didn't know what we had and someone would divert the conversation away from Bob - Every time I hear his name, it brings up some serious regrets about how we would let that happen and what we missed. He was definitely a great part of our model car history in many ways. His story about how the chrome wheels on his Rambler ended up on the Nomad in the box art picture is a classic

Absolutely agree. I have one on the way. A couple of years ago, I picked up a Streaker AWB kit at a local show for decent a price, built, roughly painted, dull chrome but rebuildable - except for the painted and split in two windscreen for the hard tonneau cover... Something that I believed to be near unobtainable. Now, I can replace the windscreen plus have a convertible to build.

That is what I use - I'm on the same bottle I had 20 years ago. As the other posts show, other builders have their own sauce which will work as well. The cloth is also important - I prefer a microfiber towel cut in smaller pieces. Back in the days when we used paper towels and tooth paste, it was even brand dependent. Viva towels would leave a shiny part. Other brands had enough toughness that they would fog up a good shine. Colgate left a foggy finish, other builders claimed success with the brands the used.

It will take more sanding to get the scratches out. Finish polishing with something like Mequiars cleaner wax - it has a very mild abrasive - with a fine microfiber cloth. Go easy on the glass, too much force will cause stress cracks in old plastic that won't come out - easy does it.

If that's from Perry's, it's time to go buy lottery tickets.

Darn it! It looks like they dropped the Halibrand front wheels that were in the original Larson Vega kit - some of the coolest wheels ever. Oh well, still good to have the Larson Pro Stock Vega back. thinking out loud - Competition Resins (see also at Slixx) makes some good Motor Wheel Flys - or Cragar Super Tricks and Centerlines from Scott at Futurattraction.

That's a neat project Jon - it's going to be pretty cool ride. I'm glad things worked out and we got some parts where they need to be.

Ed, - great to see those pics - awesome to see them without the Petersen archive watermark! Larry, Absolutely, the archive is a great place. One tip for viewing the archive - set the search for 240 images per page. it takes forever with the standard 12 per page

Absolutely Gorgeous! Thank you for fixing the images - love the in progress pictures

I'll add a bit more . Like a lot of us, I had driver training in high school, a couple of weeks in some car I don't remember but everybody survived. My parents also signed me up for formal education at a driver education school. They had a fleet of white AMC Javelins. Pretty sporty looking cars. All of them were automatics except one with a three speed and Hurst shifter on the floor - that's the one I used. I was set up to take my driver test in one of their cars. I thought it would be easier with an automatic. My state driver's test was the first time driving an automatic. My lack of experience with the automatic caused a few errors and I darn near didn't pass. I was happy to get my license and get back to the family cars that I was familiar with. My first car was a project first so it was several months before I had my own wheels.