Muncie

for true, I've had thin layers of sprue goo soften plastic and shrink for 12 months after I used it for a filler. It's the fillers that you named for me now.

ignition points and condenser - replace at what? 15,000 miles? shock absorbers that are past worn out at 25,000 miles. manual steering, bias ply tires, could be a long list...

Missed this one, lots of great music already posted. Ramble Tamble, Creedence Clearwater Probably showing my age - there have been others since like Chevrolet by Neil Young, but it has always been Ramble Tamble from Creedence Clearwater for me. The first on my list and the best. It was too long to get any radio play, a hidden Rock and Roll gem. Some good memories and here's maybe the closest shot at no speed limit. At the Bonneville salt flats, in the morning at the end of the road waiting for them to open up the salt for the five mile trip to the pits in a year when the salt was particularly great - no soft spots so no 20 mph speed limit, no one lane path. My son was with me on that trip, we're just spectating. They turn us loose and it is cars and haulers for a group almost a half mile wide at 70-85 mph (what are you going to prove with the hauler in that crowd...) Ramble Tamble at max volume. I keep hoping that happens again but unlikely with what has been happening to the salt.

A couple of random thoughts - Western Star may also be very similar to Freightliner underneath - they are part of the same corporate family... DTNA is more vertically integrated now with their own components (engines, transmissions, axles) under the Detroit brand. - I think it would take some money up front from the truck manufacturer to get a new kit, but I don't think it is in their marketing plans. It wouldn't surprise me if Navistar did that to get the new kits. Navistar was solidly into market share then but that was different times.

Thank you for the response - good to know. In real life, the Turbo 400 is about 4" longer than a Muncie. The transmission c/m is different or moved back with a turbo 400.

It sounds like the engine is too far forward. A small block should be a good fit. The engine location at the rear of the block is the same for both the big bock and small block. The transmission mount/crossmember location would be a good reference - but the one thing that could throw you off there is the Turbo 400 trans on the big block is longer. - I'm not sure what transmissions were used on the small block. (I had a big block 1967 Caprice back in a past life).

You won't believe it, but I heard about the smoke in Grand Forks on our local weather forecast last week... (We had it here in the Pacific Northwest a couple of years ago)

I'm not familiar with CA DMV or smog but have heard similar problems with registration from across the country. DMV and smog are a couple of things that can get you many answers for the same question - different people at the same counter may even have different answers. You can even get different answers from the same person depending on time of day... The answer just before quitting time ahead of a three-day weekend will be different than the answer earlier in the day or earlier in the week. Just human nature. Be polite and keep asking - you'll find the person that will help you get thru the system. You are not the only person in this situation, you will get it done.

Awesome pictures, much appreciated, thank you for posting.

Slixx Decals Slixx Decals Inc. Mike's Decals - mostly NASCAR Mike's Decals (mikesdecals.com)

Lacquer dries by evaporation of the thinner and other volatiles in the paint but remains more or less soluble. The same holds true for lacquer spot putty or most model building fillers that we use around here. Repeating the same steps, no matter how much time elapses, will probably create the same issue. As the thinner in the new paint reacts to the old paint, it may also get to the plastic and bodywork below. Adding a good layer of sealer or primer-sealer will create a barrier between old and new lacquer. Sometimes it takes a couple of good coats of sealer, but most sealers are very thin and spray straight form the can.

sits right, great wheels, this is going to be cool!

I'm going to believe this set of headers is from the Monogram 1956 Chevrolet Bel Air. Monogram may have also used this header in other kits with small block Chevy.

looks like the trailer could double as a sky launcher... that is just way too cool! love it.

Oh My!, this is so cool. Like your work on the body. I always liked the looks of the Revell Vega body, but it looked a little off. Your changes make a difference.

I agree with every comment posted here. Well researched and well done. I built one of these out of the box in my early model building days. It is lost to time, but I have another kit...

The standard sealed beam U.S. headlamps are 7" round and 5-3/4 round. Same for the European halogen lamps with replaceable bulbs. (so the 6mm lens may look OK) However, the model car headlamp sizes in kits seem to vary a lot. A Brief History Of Sealed Beam Headlamps In The U.S. (carid.com) Put me on the list for some good aftermarket lenses. CTM aka, Czech Truck Model has some replacements that look pretty good and are available for reasonable money from the usual truck model vendors. Your Local Hobby Shop may have some accessory pieces in the Gundam section to do the job.

For a heavy-duty truck, standard wheelbase is a grain of salt thing. The spec sheet will have a standard wheelbase, but heavy-duty trucks can be ordered with almost any wheelbase in one inch increments. The standard wheelbase is for a truck without any options. Add a sleeper on the order and the wheelbase is increased. The wheelbase may be a later modification. When trucks see a few years, they start getting modified for a second or third owner The pictures in the other thread show a big gap between the cab and the front of the trailer like a sleeper had been removed.

That is very cool! factory fresh.

Looks great, safe travels Marc.

Thank you SteveG. I'm looking forward to the Chevelle AWB kit, especially with the vinyl tires which I see as good news. The plastic two-piece slicks always had a taper and the plastic two-piece fronts had no tread - just a draft angle to get them out of the molds. Sometimes, depending how my day was going, they were difficult to assemble. Hoping the vinyl tires will be available as a parts pack. I don't think this size has ever been available in vinyl and they can be used on many other cars. One less thing to tool if more new AWB and drag racing kits are in the pipeline.

Sorry, not much help here... Had to get a Krylon spray can last week for a different project (not a model car). I tried to match an old can of Fusion 2328 Pepper Red. Krylon was bought by Sherwin Williams a few years ago but the local S/W store had only a small selection. The local big farm and home improvement stores that I tried didn't have Krylon and were completely changed over to Rust-oleum products. A big box store had a few cans - it looked like they were closing out spray cans altogether. They used to have a 60 foot row of spray paint. O'Riley's and NAPA had only a small selection of Krylon. After checking ten places, NAPA had Pepper Red but with a new number. I'm hoping it is close enough.

The camper probably never existed... but it looks like one that I'm sure I saw in an advertisement in the back of Popular Science or Popular Mechanics magazines back in 1963. Yeah, I don't think I would trust my memory 60 years either.

Thanks James, Tim, and all the rest. Looks like it's going to be a good year. Round 2 is doing a great job with their philosophy on reissues of old favorites. The Ford pickups even have new separate bumpers and grille in place of the old one-piece units.

Very nicely done, great use of a cool kit with color selection and different levels of shine. I can remember building one of these on a Christmas morning... it was a long time ago.