Muncie

more info here - IT’S BACK! FOR REAL!! – Pat Ganahl's Rod and Custom

Randy at Model Builders Warehouse is a good guy to work with. Send him an email and he can let you know when he has them in stock or set you up with a pre-order.

Thers are a lot of great (car) museums big or small worth a stop and look in that area.

The Portland Blues Festival is this weekend all the way thru to the fireworks on the fourth. It is being broadcast live on KBOO 90.7 FM and on the internet at Listen Now | KBOO

Wow! amazing work and no easy task. Doubly difficult because the bottom side has to be just as good as the top with no filler.

Duplicolor 1699 gray primer sealer - it takes a good coat of a sealer to block the orange, especially if it's under alight color top coat.

there are a couple of small pictures available on Fabrizio's website, lots of other cool stuff also - Brizios.com

Absolutely agree - life got so much easier when I started using separate dedicated pin vises for the drills that I used most often. When I want to drill, I don't have to fumble around changing bits.

A few years ago, I'm on this highway - four lanes but no barrier between. I'm in the left lane and traffic in both lanes is heavy and traveling at the usual speed. Going thru a small town known for speed enforcement, I pick up a tailgater behind me so close that I can barely see his car over my tail gate. I could not see him, but he could not see the state patrol car parked ahead. The officer pulled out a couple cars ahead of us but still not visible to the tailgater. As I reached the patrol car, I pulled into the right lane. The officer saw it all... some days Karma works

After stripping the paint, the clear parts will require some extra care in handling. Anything that will strip paint will make the clear plastic more brittle and easier to crack. it's not the end of the world but just a little extra gentle handling. The plastic can be polished with a mild abrasive like Meguiars cleaner wax but handle it carefully don't put a lot of pressure on it.

Claude, The salt flats are a very unique place on this earth. Your absolutely beautiful streamliner captures the speed, innovation, emotion, and spirit of Bonneville. Well done.

Guide headlights were original equipment on things like trucks and agricultural equipment. They were also sold aftermarket as individual lamps or kits to add or convert older vehicles to sealed beam lights. Reproductions are available in the hot rod world.

There are multiple variables in air brushing - back in the model car club discussions you could ask 10 people that could get good results and there would be about 15 different answers. With the paint that I sprayed most often, I always set the regulator at 18 to 20 psi at the compressor with the airbrush trigger pulled and then if I had to, adjust the paint to thinner mix for best results. That eliminated pressure as a variable in the operation. There are a lot of new paints out there now that may require something different, but I would still try to eliminate as many variables as possible.

- amazing craftsmanship and detail! It is good to see you here and the Camaro project back on the workbench.

Generally, there should be a gap. The gap can be adjusted by changing the height of the snubber to tune the rear suspension for harder or softer launch. traction bars - 1971 CHEVROLET CAMARO Competition Engineering C2103 Competition Engineering Leaf Spring Traction Bar Kits | Summit Racing instructions here for traction bar installation and tuning - C2101C2103Bolt On.doc (summitracing.com)

Looking great, incredible detail, and amazing wheels.

These look great. I think Revell kind of shot themselves in the foot on the Hawaiin. It could have been a good generic kit usable for other funny cars with an extra rear window and firewall without the pineapple details.

Slix decals, Slixx Decals Inc. has a lot of Competition Resin in stock. Very good people and easy to work with.

click on the new additions button at Mike's Decals (mikesdecals.com) and scroll down. He is adding more every few days. Mostly bodies so far but good to hear he will also be doing parts.

Wow! that is incredible detail and very well done

perhaps a dark stripe between the blue and white... but it looks good like this. You have very clean line between the colors.

I can't tell you the colors, but this might help - Dennis Gage, My Classic car TV visits the Tammy Allen collection.

I took a side trip over to your build posts - Your truck is looking good What type of hosetenna mounting are you using? on the LH rail, hosetenna a-frame mounted (really more of a hoop that goes from LH rail to RH rail with hosetenna in the center) or just a flat strap that goes between the rails mounted level with the top of the rail. mounted on the LH rail - the tractor protection valve will be in the rail with hoses routed to air couplings on the hosetenna bracket. A-frame mounted - early Freightliners had the same trailer connection plumbing, but later simply had the tractor protection mounted valve mounted on the a-frame at the base of the hosetenna. Freightliner didn't have a standard installation for a hosetenna mounted level with the top of the rail with a bracket between rails. but it would have had standard air and electrical connections on the LH rail. Hope this helps.

Very interesting history on the Aurora 1/16 kits. Thank you for posting it. I can remember finding the Auroara chassis and engines in a small little hobby shop that I didn't usually go to in 1973(?). The level of detail is extraordinary.