RyanSilva

Looking good, i see your using the 2 part rusting paint? You can go over the iron paint with regular acrylics, just use the dry brush technique only use a little more paint on the brush had..and dab dab dab till you work the paint in. This would give you some color to go with the rust parts. Use craft paints, there very cheap at close to 100 dollar or 50cents on sale at craft stores or walmart.

I really hope when/if they release the cutlass, its bone stock..ya know the v6/305 grandma car? I love those things!

Yup! I do the same thing, works every time!

I wrote a lengthy but pretty straight forward tutorial on weathing with craft paints.. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=14088 I use acylic craft paint because they dry flat. You can airbrush them or paint them with a sponge or brush using the dab technique

Firefighter was not that limited though, theres plenty out there to warrant a low price. ebay is the only place i have seen these tires for around 5 bucks a pair...as some sellers sell them seperate

I used it..i did not like it at all, to many bubbles..even pouring tiny streams and stirring slowly..I did not have my pressurepot at the time, so maybe now it would be ok..but i was not impresssed with it. If you can get it cheap using the coupon, you should be ok to exsperiment with it.

awesome! just perfect. The rear tires look like the ones from the revell -anglia/austin/willy's/henry j kits

Thanks Ed! you should realllllly try it Bill i do..but i put them on ebay the other night

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Built the Blue Max yesterday, and the 1955 the day before.. Built them for ebay..to refill my model building fund account just "what if's" to be used for models or slot cars

Those same tires can be found in the amt firefighter mustang II

I have a AMT Grant King sprint car kit that is just like that. Its a nice kit! specially for building a sprint car type hybrid/open wheel track car (thats what im doing) Its an older kit, but the mold is not that tired.

Well I would say these are some of the best ever made.. revell 427 shelby cobra or 1964 fairlane (dual quads) AMT 1966 Ford fairlane 427 (dual quads) The intake from the 1960 starliner fits this engine if you wanted a single 4barrel.

Great write up Bob. i never liked AVG, I use Kapersky and so far it has served well. If you want to fight Mal-ware look for the program "malwarebytes" its one awesome, clean simple tool

I miss the blower engine detail set from MAS.detail master version does not even come close to MAS!

The length of time varies. Consider alcohol "chemicly hot" as in it melts acrylic paint, so the longer it sits on the paint, the more loose the paint layers become. It really needs to be played around with to fully know what your paint job needs, every one is different, but use a 5 seconds for a start. Use the makeup pads to remove the layers. You can press the sponges into the paint to lift off layers, but fair warning, it can remove many many layers! Go lightly to get a feel for it. When i apply the paint with the sponges, i use the "dab" technique, this gets aslight texture and good coverage. Postt pics!

I use "Bilge" vent fans for boats, there rated at around 300 cfm and are toxic chemical stable, they got sealed motors so no blowing up and catching fire will happen (or highly unlikely)

Here is another build i started during early summer. Its based on the Goodguys version of 1948 Ford Convertible 2n1. I forget how many layers of paint, and how much rubbing alcohol i used on this body! but its ALOT. The current pictures show the chopped roof, but I have since sanded them flush ready to be primed and painted. Yes this was a after affect, i did not like the stock height when it was painted. The major CON about this kit is the ride height. It uses the 1948 woody design so it sits very high, I ended up cutting the bump stops from the front and rear, adding spacers to the rear axle, cutting the cross member for the front leaf spring to hide further in, and i offset some tubing glued to the wheel backs. I need to adjust the front or rear some.. Its a shelf/diorama photo car so Im not worried about how unrealistic the suspension mods are. Im leaving the carson top removable so i can detail the inside with junk...or room for my surfboard.

The A pillars are not tall enough (revell's fault) so the chop ends up leaning downward as the chop moves closer to the windshield. Normally on a chop merc, the tallest part of the chop is the A pillars, everything behind it is either the same height, or slopes down rearward. just nit picking revells fault

Scavenge some watch parts. Use mechanical watches, go to flea markets, ebay (bit pricey) There is some of the smallest gears ever made..located in mechanical watches.

Thanks Guys! Il be happy to share more tutorials on the way i do things, in the future. Len i sent it!

Im actually changing the flatty Using the 48 ford convert engine for parts =motorcity flatheads and intake. red clear fuel line..etc. I added some chrome..needs a few touch ups though, i managed to nic some parts. I always manage to lose one tire...i do this every time, so right now a AMT black wall is sitting in the back, waiting patiently to be removed! Yes thats a face that appeared on the door, when i was doing a black wash...creepy After a few touchups its off to the passenger side..

Correct, not all cars use carbs, they use a form of fuel injection. See all those hoes running just above the blower into the air intake "hat" (the funny black thing on the top of the motor) All those hoses contain fuel, from the fuel pump thats usually located in front of the engine near the crank shaft.

Look through my collection of picture..it may help you. http://public.fotki.com/73OldsOmega/refere...ods-105-tire-f/

I dont think there in business anymore.. but scale dreams has aluminum kegs! http://stores.homestead.com/hstrial-RSchwa.../Categories.bok