Mike

I've never tried it, but in theory, it I don't see why you couldn't mist some flat clear on the decal to dull it down a bit. Some people shoot old decals with clear coat to preserve them and keep them from breaking when they're applied.

Very true Dale. I've looked at that kit a few times but never bought one. Clean work on your behalf! Here's another heavy decal project that's similar for decal help that I've done -

For those who are interested - My latest project - the Badboy Corvette from the 24 hour Sebring race - has caused me to enter a new level of what some call "decal hell". I'm no stranger to decal work but this current build is putting me on a new challenge with aftermarket decals and they're NOT pre-cut to provide ease of application. Decals can be a huge challenge or aversion for some. It's not as hard as you'd think, and the thing to do is essentially DIVE IN (at least that's how I got introduced). So, without further delay let's begin with what you will need - First (and most importantly) PATIENCE, PATIENCE, PATIENCE Next on our list is a group of tools you already have on your workbench - Exacto and a NEW #11 blade, good scissors, new soft bristle paint brush, a padded "sponge head" brush, tweezers, Micro Sol and/or Micro Set, and lastly a hair dryer. A WHAT??!? Yep. Hairdryer. Preferably one with a lower heat setting. To begin, trim the decal closely to the edge. This will help take care of any silvering or edges hanging after the decal is in place. For the below hood decal, I left "Jake" (as the mascot is affectionately known) in one piece. I taped the hood in place from below to allow for a solid surface to work with. Dip the decal in warm water for about 8-10 seconds to activate the glue. Let it sit on a wet paper towel until the decal slides freely. I placed the decal on the hood and, using the sponge-head brush, positioned the decal in place. Using a cotton swab or paper towel, removed excess water from below. Next, using the #11 blade, I had to make small splices in the decal to allow it to set over the molded-in hood pins. Next I dipped my new soft brush in to Micro Sol and applied it to odd contours like the hood pins, parting lines between the hood and body, and ferrings on the fenders. The Micro Sol softens the decal and allows it to settle in to odd surfaces. DO NOT try to move or position the decal at this point. The decal is soft and will tear easily. Allow the Micro Sol to do it's work for about a couple minutes. Next, take the hair dryer and on the lower heat setting, shoot it with some warm air. This will assist the decal in shrinking and conforming to those odd surfaces. At the end of the heating process, let the decal set and inspect it. There may be an air bubble or wrinkle which are easily remedied. Using your #11 blade, cut/slice a small hole in the bubble/wrinkle and apply Micro Sol again. After I let the decal set up for about 1/2 an hour, I again took my #11 blade and CAREFULLY cut the separation lines between the hood length-wise and along the window sill. Following this, I also made the cuts for the fender ferrings. I applied Micro Sol again moving the brush WITH the direction of the ferrings and hood etc. I also found that the surface along the wind shield was very oddly shaped. Here again I had to use more Micro-Sol and muscle the decal in to submission gently and use the hair dryer. It took about 4 applications total to get it to set in. This is the final result after 45 minutes. Next, we're going to put "Jake" on both sides of the car. Here again we've got some issues to deal with. First off is the 1/4 moon decal over the rear window. Molded-in rivets cause problems in airbubbles and inperfections. Using tip of my #11 blade I picked small holes where the rivets are to allow the decal to conform to those odd surfaces. After applying Micro Sol and heat as in the previous decal, we're ready to trim the window seam. This is the final result - Before I can begin to put "Jake" on the side of the car, I need to give him a trim. The eyes and lower part of the skull will be on the door/rear fender. The top of his head will be over the rear well, b-pillar and landing on the top of the car. OK. Let's get Jake's eyes and mouth on the car. Again, repeat all the processes as before - wet the decal and allow to set on a wet paper towel until it moves freely. Slide the decal off of the backing and on to the surface, positioning with the sponge-headed brush. Dry up any excess water with a cotton swab or paper towel. Here again we have surface irregularities. Using our Micro Sol and applying where needed, heat with the hair dryer as before and cut any bubbles with the #11 blade to seep out air, water, etc. Obviously in the picture below we've got some excess decal to remove. After the decal has had a good 10 minutes to set up, I take out the #11 blade once again. The method I use is the carefully start at the top of the decal and in a double-down motion begin cutting. I start with the tip of the blade at the top of the decal and make a stabbing/downward fluid cut using the inner wheel well as a guide. Do not do this cut fast but take your time and make it one fluid motion. Here again, we're going to put Jake's head on. Wet decal, position, Micro Sol, heat, repeat as necessary and trim as in all the previous stages. Again we face the dreaded window rivets and have to pick holes with the #11 blade. The finished product is this - Decaling is a time-consuming and patience testing process. I cannot emphasize the importance of PATIENCE enough here. It's a labor of love for sure. The key is practice, patience, proper materials, and patience. Did I say patience? If you have any questions, feel free to contact me. I'm off to make a Micro Sol shake....

Like I said elsewhere Dan. Great use of "household materials" LMAO and nicely executed work on a rare subject.

I was putting decals on my current project all night and just saw this post! Maybe I'll catch a re=run.

Fortunately decals help polish turds. This one's been relegated to a shelf model after the black got messed up from the masking tape during a "touch up" for the yellow. Then I dropped it, and the doors flew off on the floor. At any rate, this is the present state of my current modeling indulgence. The decals have REALLY posed another level of "decal hell" for me which I've managed thus far. Thank you for following along.

Yes, it does come with an engine which is minimally seen for hte amount of detail in it. The pan and deck lid cover 50% of it.

I remember that blowout sale and kick myself for not buying one. You've done great on decal work. I remember building my Dome Mugen Honda that was a decal endeavour. Not an easy task. Keep up the good work.

All wrapped up! Quite an enjoyable build. I'm still wrestling with the only fit issue I've got and that's the chassis pan and front end. Something's twisted but can't figure out where. Anyway, I really enjoyed this car (decals included) and I'm happy with the finished product.

Hey all, if there are any members in the Phoenix area, I'm flying down in July to hang out with a relative. While there, I'd like to check out a couple of THE hobby shops in the area. Thanks!

Hey Dano buddy. I can get you a copy here just south of the border and shoot up to you. I just need your addy again.

Absolutely beautiful Dave. I could only dream of seeing this in person.

My favorite is his "Walter" the old man. I remember seeing him when on TV when he was just getting started and had Peanut and the Jalapeno only.

Thank you guys for the very kind compliments. Here's a WIP shot of the interior for you Fordh8r.

I've got to clear coat the hood yet, but I'm calling it done. This is a fantastic kit to build. I tried the Testors vinyl top system on this one with "ok" results IMHO. The BMF I had was over due as well, so it didn't lay as well as I'd have wanted. All in all, it was a fantastic build to break a slump.

I guess I don't have a specific model, but there are a few that have some sentimental value to me. I'm not a Mopar guy, but my '69 Daytona Charger is the benchmark build in my collection where everything just came together for the whole build. I've got a few that I've built that are Christmas & birthday presents from my wife & kids. A couple of which I still have to build. My wife has a way of picking things "outside of the box" for me and helps my skills move forward or challenge me in a new way.

I've got a completed body/interior/chassis relationship. For whatever reason (age?) my BMF decided to give me fits. The adhesive wanted to separate from the foil when peeling off the trim, and other utter uncooperation. My LHS was out too so I pushed on, said a few expletive's, and got it done. Definitely not my best work because of it either. New BMF is on the list now.

Here's the interior finished tonight. Hopefully I can get some bare metal foil on and put the chassis, body, and interior together later this week. Thank you for following along.

Thank you all for the kind compliments again. The ideas you have are good. Your LHS may stock and should be able to get the vinyl top system if they stock Testors Model Master paints. If not, online it's easily available.

Brilliant execution on the paint job man!

Nice work. Thank you for the tutorials. I've yet to attempt opening a door on a project yet, but seeing this and your article in MCM should get me on my way.

Bucs & Browns fan by trade - Cheering for the Ravens since they were once the Browns. Can't wait to see the Ravens and Steelers beat the ever livin' heck out of each other Sunday! That's going to be a brawl!

I tend to gravitate towards the sci-fi when I need a break -

Looks great!

Breathtaking. Can't wait to see the completed ride.