hedotwo

Cool stuff, thanks for sharing!

Thanks!

Any idea what it's from? Thanks!

Tamiya Modeler's Knife Pro Replacement Scraper 2 TAM74161 Knives/Blades

You're right, I guess only Tamiya's pricey ones. These are just a smidge wider than a typical #11 blade, so unless you can either widen your holders a bit, or narrow the blade, you're stuck unfortunately. I guess I didn't realize this as I already had Tamiya holders. Thanks for pointing this out.

I spend the majority of my hobby time restoring glue bombs that usually require lots of bodywork. I may be crazy, but this is the part of the hobby I like best. Because of this weird passion I've aquired a ton of tools to deal with all sorts of repairs and I thought I'd gotten all I need. But, I recently picked up a pack of two Tamiya scraper blades from Amazon and I'm sold on these. They're super sharp and just require a gentle drag back and forth on a seam line, or whatever, and it's gone. So far they seem to hold their edge really well too. Maybe these aren't new to a lot of us, but they were to me. I still like my assortment of riffler files equally though. Just my two cents.....

Thanks Bill!

I bought this a few years ago and I'm now trying to identify it so I can shop for it again. No writing on it. Works super for doing the initial pass on panel lines as it follows curves the best I've used. Anyone ID it? Thanks!

This may not be what happened in your brother's case and the seller really was trying to deceive, but I've found that lots of sellers on Ebay maybe just don't understand the difference between a promo and a kit build. I think most, if not all of us here know the difference. I've seen obvious listing mistakes both ways. Promos called original kit builds and kit builds being promos. Buyer beware I guess.

I'll agree with Peter and second using Dullcote... done this for years to take the shine off tires and never had problems.

Great build Bill and way to keep with it!

Hmmmm..... more to think about. Right now I'm leaning towards just using the Z28 correct, but narrow, grille and just leaving the gaps. But, I guess I could experiment with the Revell grille if I can find one. Would you know if the "V" shape of the Revell grille works with the AMT annual? That would be another thing to consider. Thanks Steve

I have the MCG 2066 set for the 67 Camaro but not sure how that will help with my problem. Maybe I'm missing something. Thanks Andy

The 80s/90s AMT kit you refer to would probably be the same as the current Z28 release? I have that one and it's too narrow. I'm guessing I'm looking for something that may never have been, unless there's something accurate in resin that would fit the 67 (or 68) AMT annual. Worst case, I go ahead and use the later release base grille and leave the gaps on either side of the headlights. Unless I can figger out how to fill in the gaps without uglying it up. I like the accurate shape of the fender ends the way they are in the annual. Thanks Steve

Unfortunately I don't have that kit to check but I can keep my eye out to see if something turns up. Maybe someone can confirm before I take the leap and buy the kit for the grille. I thought the Revell 67 kit had the SS emblem in the grille too. I need the plain grille. Unless there's two different grilles in that kit. And I'm needing the contour of the grille to fit the AMT annual too. So many things to consider ? Thanks Jack

I've been gathering the parts I'll need to try and replicate my brother's 67 base Camaro 396. I have AMT 67 annual parts including body and tried to fit a later release Z28 grille (which looks ok) but as I was afraid it was too narrow as they changed the front end a bit in the later releases. I've been searching here and in some aftermarket resin vendors but have come up empty for this grille that will fit the annual. Any suggestions? Thanks as usual!

Is there a listing, or guide available of promo colors? I've been searching and I see a book by Paul Bender but I don't see that he lists colors. Thanks!

Good suggestion Mark!?

Thanks Bill, I had considered the Excel repop but I thought Excel was usually imprinted on the chassis. Definitely thick styrene, so I was guessing it wouldn't be an original Johan. Anyway, I can make a nice stock Fleetwood from it.

I was able to pick this up really cheap ($15) over the weekend and I've disassembled it and tossed the primered body into the pond. After looking online I'm confused as to what it might be, other than the obvious Johan chassis I'm not sure if it's resin or plastic. No warp whatsoever, glossy black interior, perfect glass, bumpers and tires/wheels. If it's a Johan promo from '58 were the bodies done in a darkish blue? The chassis is. The body to me is thicker than normal. Not sure how it would ever warp. I pulled it out of the Super Clean and rinsed just in case. Thanks!

Happy Camper! Got my last remaining 1966 AMT annual, the Barracuda. My goal for years has been to collect all the 66 and 67 AMT annuals, as those were the two years I was heaviest into building as a 14-15 year old. During and after 1967 girls happened and model building didn't ?. I have all but the '67 Camaro CV Pace Car (have the kit but not the box) and if I could ever find that one I'd finish the '67 annuals as well.

Great build!

I've used this for a long time when trying to get a stubborn screw out. I decanted into a small jar and then use an old paint brush to dab under the head of the screw with the car upside down. Every so often I check and see if the screw will begin to move without too much pressure. I keep adding more penetrating oil as I go. Sometimes it'll take a day or two, but rarely does this method fail, and I've done LOTS of these over the years.

Following...

I've been doing this for quite some time and I think I'm up to like 180 spoons. I have a google spreadsheet that I keep all the details of the numbered spoon. I often record a color twice... once with a white primer and a second with a gray primer. Nice to see the differences the primers make.