Quick GMC

Some airbrush manufacturers dont recommend it others do.

That looks great. Almost identical to the Grigio Silverstone I used for my 328

Definitely covered easier. The clear coat is much smoother and less porous than the black paint. The black paint is very smooth, but there is a significant difference in shine and surface smoothness on the clear coat. I have not cleared Alclad, but I know that you cannot and maintain the effect. I have a theory that if you handle your Alclad parts with your bare hands, inevitably down the road somewhere, it will deteriorate and turn black. I think the oils from your skin stay on it and break it down. I say this because I have pieces that I haven't touched in over a year that were perfect when I put them in the box and I know I handled them with bare hands. The parts I know I handled with gloves, like my F40 exhaust parts are perfectly fine. So now I only use latex gloves to handle them. Another thing about Alclad is if it's done perfectly, there will be and extremely light dusting of dried paint on the surface. Use a Kleenex (without scents or lotions if possible) or a camera lens cleaning cloth and just lightly buff it down and it will give it a little more clarity. Not like normal polishing, just let the weight of the cloth fall on it and gently buff it a couple times.

I appreciate everyone's' comments. I really wanted to paint the engine, but all I have is Chevy orange, and I know some of you would notice and I'd be in trouble. I ordered a bunch of paint from Scale Finishes yesterday, including a bottle of Hemi orange, so when that gets here, the engine pics will come. I don't know what the color of the car will be yet. I have ruled out orange, silver and black. I'm actually not a big Mopar fan, but this looked like a nice kit. So far I like it and the fit seems to be pretty good. it was easy to prep. I usually end up making mistakes on the final assembly and making more work for myself. We'll see how this goes.

On a serious note there are two other particular forums that cater to your interests. If you wold like to know what they are, PM me. They are fairly active

Its the tamiya paint stand. I think I ordered it online

It's clear now, middle school is closed today and you're getting bored.

No, you didn't Actually, your post history says otherwise. You posted a progress update today in your latest build thread, then 5 HOURS LATER, you bumped the thread. You're actually being kind of whiny.

Okay so it's always been Alclad over gloss black. BUT, the chrome looks dark sometimes. You can do Alcad over any surface as long as it's super smooth and glossy. Dark colors just give it more depth and actually change the finished hue. So I have been thinking about doing gloss over the black for months, but I have little time to build and I'm too lazy to spend time doing tests. I read Steve_L's thread and said screw it, I'll try it on this build, since the parts were already in black. The KEY is in the angle. I saw a Youtube video a long time ago, I have no idea what video or who made it, but what always stuck with me was the guy said to spray at a 45 degree angle. I took it further and sprayed directly across the surface, basically parallel to the surface. I couldn't do this on the wheels, or I wouldn't get the middle, so that's why the wheels are not quite as impressive as the exhaust pieces. Also, the pressure was up a bit. I couldn't tell what the PSI was because I use a thumb screw right at the handle of my airbrush, the gauge doesn't give the correct reading, but it felt like 20-25-ish PSI. The difference was I had the flow turned down to almost nothing. When I filled the opening of the airbrush WITHOUT THE CUP on and held the trigger down, it took over 20 seconds for it to empty, that's how little paint was coming out. I think I did about 20-30 passes of Alclad over each area, but they were so thin, the black showed through for most of it. So for this stuff I did higher pressure than recommended, but with very little paint flow, at the most extreme angle possible. Here is the same Stainless Steel directly over a plastic spoon, no primer, no base of any kind. You can see the reflection me taking the pictures Also the reflection of my fingers Now if you want to take it a step further, you can lightly sand and polish the clearcoat, and you should get the same results as you see on the spoon. I will be testing some Kosutte Ginsan on a spoon next. I will post the results when I am done.

I tried Steve's method. Here are the results http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=99418

Stainless Steel on the pipes too Polished Aluminum on the wheels

Haven't gotten too far on this yet. All the parts have been trimmed, cleaned up and primered. I filled the holes in the hood where the kit hood pins would go so I can use some photo etch ones I have, I think they will look much better. I had been thinking about doing this for a while, but user Steve_L started a thread in the tips and tricks forum. I had some parts already primered and painted with gloss black. So i followed after him and clearcoated the black parts with lacquer, then used Alclad. It works killer. More depth and reflection. The headers and pipes are Alclad Stainless Steel. The wheels are Alclad Polished Aluminum. I ran out of chrome, so when I get that in I will paint the bumpers. Clearcoated clearcoated over Alclad black base Stainless Steel over the clear coat

How is the quality on this stuff? I have been looking for jack stands and engine stands.

That's what I have been using lately, it's so easy to use and water thin. Sands and polishes nicely too. This stuff? http://i.imgur.com/dwMn8cY.jpg This is over a basecoat http://i.imgur.com/CKEiYSg.jpg?1

Racing white is pretty much a universal color. Scale Finishes, Tamiya, Zero and a bunch of other manufacturer's make a "Racing White". They are all closer to a bone white than an actual pure or bright white. This is Racing White from Zero Paints in the UK

Yeah the guys over there are insane. Scratch Built 1/8 Gt40, all brass scratch built Ford Model A, crazy stuff. There is a guy on another forum building a 1/8 Porsche Moby Dick completely 110% from scratch all from styrene stock.

This is a link to a large scale forum with Harry's permission. This guy is building this car from scratch, I thought you guys would like to see it. http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/showthread.php?36929-Continental-Mark-II

this is killing our industry on this side of the US. There is a lot of stone that is paid for in those containers and the homeowners, designers and builders don't typically accept excuses, no matter how legitimate they might be. That's just my business. There area lot of people suffering big time from this

I have some pieces primed and painted with alclad gloss black base right now. I will clear them and then do alclad and post the results. I have been thinking about doing this for a while.

I want to Turn the Saleen Speedster into a coupe, I don't care for convertibles. I assume I would need a Revell kit, and that the dimensions should be the same. I would have to cut the Saleen body kit off and swap it over, I just want to get the right body. Looks like the 94 GT would be the closest?

I would cut two holes in the back of it and mount two fans. Cut a square hole in the top to add a filter to clean the air coming. I bought the flanges and holes that mount gloves, but when they are installed, it's 9" diameter. It doesn't look like your flip cover is that big. I would probably leave that alone. Flip it open to paint, get it done, then close it and let the paint dry and let the fans draw everything out. There's a formula you can use to figure out how big your inlet filter needs to be depending on the CFM of your fan and cubic size of the box.

as crazy as it is, the work is done pretty well, which is a nice change.

I have used Zero and Scale Finishes. Scale Finishes has been excellent. I actually sent Zero an email about possibly becoming a US distributor after they requested people come forward on Facebook. They never bothered to return my email. I'm not in the modelling business, but I run an online store and I pack and ship every day. I was thinking i could setup a separate Zero-US website and start selling it.