yellowsportwagon

I need to make a gas cap aircleaner and breather tube on the engine. And a fuel overflow

Almost done

Agree after about 77 it all went downhill. Fast! I hate the way front wheel drive cars behave.

I’ve had the decals for years. Waiting on the body from Missing Link. Just so I could turn it back to a stock car ?. The roofline looks so much better on this body than the MPC roof. The old AMT roof was abysmal at best. As I’ve grown older the seventies cars have really grown on me. They made killer looking race cars with their bulging curvy bodies.

Chassis is basically done

They look nice and tight to the sides of the body as they should on a race car.

Getting closer

Real nice job Mark.Did you narrow the bumpers. Looks like it

Google Bobby Allison Builds a Monte Carlo. That’s how I found it. Look in images

No but it’s online. The chassis it shows is a short track car. It has a quick change rear end in it. But it does give you a good perspective on how Bobby built them. I changed the Panhard rod location from where it was in that article. I’ve seen other Allison chassis with the Panhard rod s I’ve placed it.

I’m not going as in depth as you did Larry. Here’s the rear axle basically done

Ok so here goes. This is Donnie’s 1973 Digard Chevelle . This is the Missing Link Chevelle turned back to a stock car. I wanted the nice grille and corrected roofline.This was a Bobby Allison built frt steer short rear trailing arm Chassis .Im using an AMT 69 Cutlass chassis. Lowered all around . Rear upper arms removed and replaced with a single tubular like Allison did them. Highly modified AMT TBird roll cage.Still lots to be done.

Real nice job Steve

If you can brush it no problem spraying won’t cause ink to run. I brush my tires with the same stuff. Usually one of the last things I do on a build. That’s why I don’t spray it

Thanks man these obscure cars are my favorites.

Nice clean build

Thanks Mark

Ok I’m calling this 95% done. Need to get the grille screen to fit a little better.

I use 2 part clear exclusively on my models. While it may dry a little too shiny I never have issues. I hear guys on this forum and others constantly complaining about paint issues. Paint wrinkles ,lifts the decals sprays crappy out the can drys dull or whatever the complaint may be. I’m just saying if you use good stuff you won’t have troubles. I’d rather my decals be protected under clear. I also have no use for “ I have hours in this and now it’s ruined “ on account of crappy paints. I’ll sacrifice too flossy for those kinds of issues any day.

This body has the taillight blocked off nicely. The wheel openings already opened up and the grille screened . Headlights blocked off too. Plus I got the body cheap!! And the General Lee doesn’t have a 500 grille

It depends what you are using for paint. If you use a hardened clear like I do you should have no issues putting a light clear coat on then decals then another coat of clear. I do all of mine exactly like that. If you use rattle cans no matter how you do it clearing over the decals can be risky. Reason being the solvents in the clear can rewet the previously applied paint causing the decal to wrinkle . Many think the decals are the problem when in fact it is solely caused by the paint. Trust me on this. Some foil decals don’t like clear. The get a etched look to them.

Thanks guys

There’s a whole story on that stupid roof. I’ve wanted to build this car for a long time. Sam is one of my favorite racing drivers. I know the air cleaner is wrong for this car. It’s been laying around firebrand it looks cool in there so I used it.

Finally got around to finishing this thing.